1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Weird LED map/dome light issue

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Seagull233, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. Jun 11, 2017 at 10:25 AM
    #21
    treyus30

    treyus30 70% complete 70% of the time

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2015
    Member:
    #158054
    Messages:
    8,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Trey
    Mesa / AJ, AZ
    Vehicle:
    '99 5VZ-FE Twin K03s w/Haltech
    Historic plates and 2 bar
    I mean bypass in the same way the resistors are. Replace the resistors in the photo above with wires.

    Perhaps my understanding from this thread about the wiring of your lights is incomplete. Are you not wiring like this?
    12v battery > Led > resistor(s) > on/off switch > ground
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
  2. Jun 11, 2017 at 4:34 PM
    #22
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Member:
    #113212
    Messages:
    5,346
    Gender:
    Male
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle:
    04 XCab 4x4 TRD/OR
    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    the resistors are on the bulb itself. they are actually a festoon type (3175 I think) with a flat 3x3 LED and the resistor is added to the back of the bulb.
     
  3. Jun 11, 2017 at 7:53 PM
    #23
    Seagull233

    Seagull233 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 4, 2017
    Member:
    #218149
    Messages:
    1,992
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Upstate New York
    Vehicle:
    2004 DC 4x4 V6
    BMW seats, OME Suspension, CBI and NWTI plates front and rear, 13,000 winch, LED light bars, Ham Radio, topper with roof rack added, stainless exhaust, 2nd battery, inverter, sound deadener
    Unfortunately, these lights are anything but straightforward. They work through a control module. The dome light has a courtesy function, whereby, when unlocking the door with the remote, it automatically lights the dome light. It also has a delay off following closing the doors, as well as when you lock the door. It seems that the control module must sense resistance at the bulb in order to function properly. Because the LED bulb draws so little current the module does not perform as intended. By adding the resistor to the bulb, the additional draw satisfies the needs of the module, and it works the same as with an incandescent bulb.

    I ran into this same scenario when adding LED headlights. The LED headlights worked fine, but I no longer had a high beam indicator on the dash. If you only replaced one incandescent, the indicator worked fine. Rather than purchasing resistors, I merely grafted a second socket into the wiring, and placed an incandescent bulb in the extra socket. It just lives in a 6 ounce tomato juice can tucked out into the cavity of the fender. (didn't want any weird lights under the hood).
     
  4. Jun 12, 2017 at 4:09 PM
    #24
    treyus30

    treyus30 70% complete 70% of the time

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2015
    Member:
    #158054
    Messages:
    8,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Trey
    Mesa / AJ, AZ
    Vehicle:
    '99 5VZ-FE Twin K03s w/Haltech
    Historic plates and 2 bar
    Oooohhkkay. Gotcha. The resistors are in Parallel then, not series.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2017
  5. Jul 7, 2018 at 5:30 PM
    #25
    Buckaroo1993

    Buckaroo1993 Who?? ME??

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2016
    Member:
    #182636
    Messages:
    489
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Vinny
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    2003 3.4L BSP DCSB TRD OFF-ROAD/SR5 4WD
    17x9 HELO HE878 with Hankook RF10 DYNAPRO AT-M LT275/70R17 RCD/Billie's Front and Rear with OME 883's and HS Progressive AAL Resulting in 3"+ Lift LR SPC UCA'S Diff Drop K&N Cold Air Intake LED's Exterior/Interior
    Reviving this thread...

    Does this mean all I need to do is solder a 1W 100 Ohm resistor end-to-end across the back of the LED dome light? (And map lights if they start acting up?)
     
  6. Jul 7, 2018 at 5:33 PM
    #26
    jrallan26

    jrallan26 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2006
    Member:
    #32
    Messages:
    1,252
    Gender:
    Male
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2004 White D-Cab TRD
    I didn’t need one. Just plugged in.
     
  7. Jul 7, 2018 at 5:35 PM
    #27
    Buckaroo1993

    Buckaroo1993 Who?? ME??

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2016
    Member:
    #182636
    Messages:
    489
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Vinny
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    2003 3.4L BSP DCSB TRD OFF-ROAD/SR5 4WD
    17x9 HELO HE878 with Hankook RF10 DYNAPRO AT-M LT275/70R17 RCD/Billie's Front and Rear with OME 883's and HS Progressive AAL Resulting in 3"+ Lift LR SPC UCA'S Diff Drop K&N Cold Air Intake LED's Exterior/Interior
    Unfortunately I do. Door-open dome light only works with ignition switch to Acc or On.
     
  8. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:07 PM
    #28
    Seagull233

    Seagull233 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 4, 2017
    Member:
    #218149
    Messages:
    1,992
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Upstate New York
    Vehicle:
    2004 DC 4x4 V6
    BMW seats, OME Suspension, CBI and NWTI plates front and rear, 13,000 winch, LED light bars, Ham Radio, topper with roof rack added, stainless exhaust, 2nd battery, inverter, sound deadener
    Yes, just solder the resistor to the ends of the bulb. Use for the dome, and it fixes the map lights as well. (Did for me anyway!!)
     

Products Discussed in

To Top