What did you 3D print today?

damn! i love that color change in the base...why didn't i think of that!?

 

Fortunately the base is only 50-60 grams and could be knocked out in an afternoon.

 

I'm sure all of you have your way of making things stick to the bed. I'm still learning. Glue stick seems to work well for keeping corners down
Hair spray, Suave beats Aqua Net.
But the best so far, after having two prints self remove last night, is diluted PVA.
I just brushed it on, let it dry, and sent it. Thought I wasn't gonna get the print off the bed.
A few minutes of soaking in hot water and it came off, the PVA just rinses away.
What are you printers using?

 

My printer came with a glass plate, and I had trouble getting stuff off. Had to put it in the freezer once. I switched to a PEI-coated print bed and clean it with isopropyl alcohol between prints. If I neglect to clean it and have a tall, skinny part, it may come loose near the end of the print. A level, clean PEI bed and knowing when to use a brim or raft usually works fine, but I have resorted to glue stick. You can clean it off with water.

 

Finished this the other day for my mom. My dad passed away in Jan and he was a huge musky fisherman, and my mom likes baby yoda.

I found the baby yoda on thingiverse, pulled the hands into blender and learned how to add bones to models so I could make his hands like they were holding something, then I made the tacklebox and fishing pole in Fusion360.

 

Nothing.

I use the PEI metal bed and I usually run it stupidly hot, often at 85 degrees. Some of the silk PLAs are crazy with temperature and love to warp, so I'll run a hot bed, set the extruder to run as cold as possible, and keep the fans off until layer 10. For really delicate bases I'll sometimes add a brim in the slicer.

I've always been a fan of PETG printing though. It's not as prone to temperature errors or adhesion problems and it's just as cheap. At least for my bed.


I'll have to look into PVA. I tried glue sticking once and that actually made things much worse. That was a mess to clean up.

 

So this is enlightening, I didn't make the connection to bed heat/adhesion.
My bed runs at 40c, I usually turn it up to 45c. Print head starts at 195c for the first layer, then drop to 190c. I'll try a hotter temp.
My bed is PEI too, perhaps my cleaning regimen could be improved. I use alcohol followed by hot soap and water/sponge, no abrasives. Seems like the edges of the plate are sticky to the touch when dry, but the center not so much.

 

thats neat might have to ask a buddy to print that for me.

 

I have the pei metal spring bed thing that came with my printer. Glue stick helped with a multi board print that was coming off at the edges. Just ran the stick on the whole thing and it works great. I cleaned most of it off with a paper towel and water, but didn't completely clean it and there is residual glue left. Still sticks great. I can see where the prints were though

 

I never run the bed below 60C. Higher for PETG.

 

I have a PEI bed and I just use hot soap and water to wash it, and I make sure to not touch the plate except at the edges. I've had zero issues so far. I let the plate cool and prints usually pop themselves off on their own or its a very light twist of the plate and they pop right off.

IIRC I have PLA set to 60c, PETG 80c for bed temps. 215c and 260c for head temps. I need to play with PETG temps a little more, prints fine but gets pretty stringy. But temps also depend on the filament brand.

 

What do ya'll do for filament storage? I've been putting mine in large ziplocks with moisture absorbing packets. Not sure if it's needd tho.

 

I got a filament dryer and a set of vacuum bags. If it's been out for a bit, I put it in the dryer and then put it in a vacuum bag with a silica gel packet.

 

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Had to quote this to see it

 

A dryer is next on the list of upgrades.

 

In my Tacoma TRD Off-Road

 

Just happened to have a roll of PETG delivered yesterday, and re-did the latches for the box as one of the PLA ones snapped pretty quick.
It is definitely stronger, and fits better, like it's more dimensionally correct.
Not sure if the rough surface is normal, but it's fine for latches.
I just switched the filament in the slicer and the machine went with 235C and 70C.

Then switched to PLA for a snaplock box, and forgot to switch it in the slicer, so it raised on the corner, I assume from the extra heat. The rest was stuck pretty tight.

But it makes a nice little parts tray.

 

This was a neat project for a single extruder.
Print the wheels first, then when the bike is at exactly 18.4mm, (1 hour and 18 minutes in), pause the print, place the wheels, and resume the print. I did check with a straightedge and there is a shy 1mm of clearance.


https://www.printables.com/model/514757-motorcycle-print-in-place-plus-see-video

 

Hey everyone. Looking for suggestions on a 3d printer that's sub $200. Amazon has the

Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo 3D Printer with CR Touch Auto Leveling and PC Spring Steel Sheet, Resume Printing Function Full-Metal Extruder 95% Pre-Installed DIY 3D Printers 8.66x8.66x9.84"

Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo for $199. There seems to be a few different submodels for the Ender 3. I had a DaVinci 1.0 a long time ago and didn't care for it too much. I don't know much about the different brands, so I'm open to suggestions. Thank you. My intent is to print wheel center caps. The ones that came with my wheels don't fit on the front wheels because of the hub cap.

 

Nice, a 3D printing thread. I just upgraded my Prusa MK3S+ to a MK3.5. Now the bed leveling is all whack and the print fan RPM test doesn't work correctly as confirmed by their support. Not very impressed with the kit so far to say the least. Got a benchy printed and it looks no worse than it did before, but scared to do anything larger on the bed now.

If I were to buy one now I'd consider the Ender 3 V3 KE. It's slightly past your budget, but I think it's hands down one of the better entry level options. Unfortunately you are right, Creality has released a bunch of Ender-3's so knowing what's good these days is a bit tough.

That said if you have a hard budget of $200, you might consider some other newer Ender-3 options, like the Ender 3 V3 SE (yes, this is a different model than the V3 KE... I know, they're smoking some good stuff over there), or a

$238 Sovol SV06 3D Printer Open Source with All Metal Hotend Planetary Dual Gear Direct Drive Extruder 25-Point Auto Leveling PEI Build Plate 32 Bit Silent Board Printing Size 8.66x8.66x9.84"

Sovol SV06 can be found at that budget range on sale fairly often.

But if you can stretch out another $50 or so I think you'd be pretty pleased with your options there too.