What did you 3D print today?

Officially no. But you can get it extremely low cost if you're a veteran or a student. Actually technically you can get it free if you're a student... Or pretend to be one. Do with that knowledge what you will

 

Thank you for the help and suggestions.

 

Tinkercad


But I downloaded F360 to try and learn that, too.

 

I need to make a embossing stamp. I am attempting it in MatterCad but it is pretty limited. I have to look into switching to solidworks or fusion. We will see.

 

How fancy are you trying to get with it? Tinkercad lets you import 2d SVG vector files and extrude them into a 3d shape. Perfect for something like this and it's geared towards elementary schoolers so it's easy as hell to use haha

 

I'm lazy/cheap and use tinkercad and blender.

 

Depends on what you want to do. I'm learning fusion, but find that most of what I want to do doesn't need it. I take basic 3D models and manipulate them in the Bambu Studio slicer. For example, I'm trying to make my nephew a pencil box that looks like a fire truck (nephew is 5 and likes fire trucks and drawing).

I took a readily available 3d model, removed the top and hollowed it out in fusion...


I printed the initial prototype, but the Bambu Studio (slicer that comes with the P1S) compressed the wheels into the body and it came out weird...



I added some text, painted panels (windows, handles etc) with different colored filaments and a couple of slots so that I can glue magnets in. I even split the wheel sections and the slicer software can cut objects and add connectors so that parts can snap together for assembly. Pay attention to what is printing on the face of the bed and what isn't. I'm using a smooth plate here to help the pieces fit together better. Bambu studio is much more intuitive for me, but fusion is has an astounding amount of functionality. Learning curve for both the slicer and fusion are pretty steep in the beginning...

 

One plate of bins later..

 

SolidWorks has a makers package for $48 per year. That’s more than reasonable for a full fledged 3D CAD software. Printer is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow which is really fast considering I ordered it last night. I’ll be able to share some prints soon.

 

Did you get the AMS combo package with the P1S? Also, hope you ordered a bunch of filament as well. I blew through the small spools that came with the unit.

 

I did not get the AMS package. I figured I could add that on later. Trying to keep costs reasonable. I ordered a spool of PETG HF. I have a design for a tool that I’m going to make which needs some strength to it. I’ll probably be trying a few types of filaments to get one that works the best. The delivery was changed to Tuesday.

 

For me, it seemed like a pretty good deal to add the AMS as the combo. P1S by itself was $599 and with the AMS as a combo it was $799. The AMS alone is $349 from Bambu. I liked the AMS so much that I added another...



That said, enjoy the printer. Like many others have pointed out, you'll be printing near perfect models within 30 minutes of unboxing. Pretty badass machine for the price.

 

Paul, stay away from Thingiverse. You'll keep finding things that you just have to print! Just a friendly warning.

 

Oh, and, congrats on the printer purchase. It will give you plenty to keep your mind on, and plenty to learn.

 

Thank you

 

Got back to work on the 1:1 scale life size B1 droid.......

Since I now have all of the 100+ parts printed out in ABS, I have now entered the first stage of applying the ABS "goop". Its effectively varying amounts of ABS off-cuts, supports and reject parts combined with acetone.

The light gray jar is a thin-ish mixture of gray supports and acetone and is about the consistency of thick house paint, and I use a thin layer of that one for all of the overall parts. The dark gray jar is mix of black supports, but a much higher ratio of ABS to acetone, as it has the consistency of very thick honey and is great for filling major goofs, or layer line shifting.
All ABS gets recycled back into the most effective glue you can use to glue ABS parts together, as well as a smoothing agent to help sanding:






Once dry, this means you are effectively sanding on that layer instead of sanding through your 3D print, as well as the main purpose of filling nearly all the print layers on the 1st go-round.
Once brushed on, it almost immediately starts to melt into the surface and make the print lines much less sharp, and prepped for sanding:






Here we see a lot of the wrist/hand and upper arm parts being coated. Once these are dry, Ill take them upstairs and start the 1st stage of the sanding process, then take the next box of parts down to be coated:



onward and upward, as there is still a TON of work left on my droid.

 

Fusion 360 personal license, has everything you need pretty much outside of some advanced tools which you probably won't be using if you're beginner. Even if you do you can do most of the premium features in an alternative way with the other tools.

 

It is going to look a lot like a replacement VIN plate.... . Honestly, I purchased a vehicle that someone was restoring, I have all the paperwork, I have all the VIN numbers, everything is legit.... Except their son removed the VIN plate to shave the firewall and make it look nice ... Now I can't register it without a verification and there's no plate to verify. I am just trying to make everything legit and the DMV is being a huge PITA.

 

Obligatory photo of my first print. Second was a benchy.

 

Am I the only one thats never printed a benchy?