What did you 3D print today?

I've done this one several ways. Standing on it's back nose up is the fastest and least amount of supports/material. However, the layering leaves a hood that easily cracks.
Standing like it sits in the pic produces the best print overall. Hood can easily flex down until it touches the car without breaking, which is ideal when it takes a tumble.
Only takes about 3.5 hours. I did organic supports at first, I tend to use them the most. And after having several prints fail due to broken supports, (it has a drippy tip, retraction is currently set to 8mm, temp is down to 210c) I switched to grid. That actually printed faster, even using more material. And the final result was way better, after figuring out how to remove the support, it left a fairly clean underside.

Edited to include file.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6900013

 

Idk how much or if you trust your printer to print in this type of orientation.

Kind of keeps the amount of overhands limited and gives a good sturdy base for when it's printing the driver door side and hood which like you are hard to manage when it's around 2 layers thick, all depends on layer adhesion. When it's put together on the frame though it would probably have that support it needs.

 

It will do that, but the organic supports have a 50/50 chance of making it to the top
Plus my surfaces turn out "better" if it's flat. It will never produce the quality you have with your switch enclosures.
Literally, about half the prints I do with organic make it just fine, no problems at all. The other half, there will be a broken support. Still firm on the bed, just broke somewhere from being "caught" by the traveling print head.
Also, I have re-sliced that file to make the doors, cab and hood thicker. First print was eggshell thin. Nice and light, just no strength.
Now I'm using the xtra-cab file, lost the pinched tail and thinned it out where it didn't go against strength. The current print file I have is good after cleaning it up.

 

Not sure what printer you got but getting an enclosure is pretty key to getting better success even if it's a cardboard but or whatever you throw over the printer while it's going to keep the heat in best you can. I bet you'd see more success with it and you'll get better layer adhesion with that too.

I got interested to see for myself too with some of the smaller bits, I printed it with some ASA-CF I had loaded and it's pretty cool, it's got a good amount of flex, springs back to the original shape and it weight 26.3 grams for the frame.

 

I've got the Anycubic Neo 2 Kobra and the Kobra 2 plus. The Neo does better prints and has been far less trouble overall. I'll try a cardboard enclosure, it's small enough to set a box over it.
That print looks great btw! I'll give it a shot at that angle. I doubt I'll get that same finish though.

 

The CF stuff should come out a lot better compared to none fiber filled filaments. PETG is one of my least favorite filaments but the CF additive fixes some of the issues with PETG so it'll probably be decent.

 

First print with PETG-CF. Ended up using the bigger printer as it allows changes on the fly, that was crucial. Started with my typical settings to see what's happened, way too cold and fast.
The key for this was slow speed and high heat, more to come this weekend, hoping to dial it in a bit better. I did try printing at the angle, failed, but will try again now that I better understand how this stuff prints.

and it's much lighter.

Straight PETG.

 

Looks pretty good so far

 

Thanks!
Just started another on the corner edge like you suggested. Had to do a 2 layer raft to get that first tiny corner piece to stay. If it fails, I have another to try on it's side, so the door will get full length adhesion and maybe stay put.
Once that's working, then moving on to experimenting with the fuzzy skin.

 

Scientifically it can't fail if you never look away from the print. That comes from scientific experiments I've done with my old printers lol.

 

My makeshift cardboard enclosure is making that more of a challenge.

 

I have to say in doing research on a new printer, and including experience with previous printers, along with wanting to print mainly in ABS, that having an enclosed printer was a priority for sure.
That and having a minimum of 350 × 350 × 350 building plate.
Having both really does expand your printing possibilities as well as making it a bit easier to print more difficult materials.

 

Last night I printed the only duck I'll run on the dash of my Jeep

 

Not sure what to think about this filament, PETG-CF, or my pos printer...pretty sure it's the pos.
Left was the first success that was pictured earlier, printed at 0.2 layer height, 65mms, 240C. Center was printed at 0.1 layer, 50mms, 240C and lost the tip of the hood as well as the tiny pin holes. This was supposed to be a more precise setting....
Right was done last night while I slept at 0.2 layer, 50mms, 245C and seems brittle, but no pin holes. Fuzzy skin not pictured as it's a total waste.
They are lighter, take longer to print, look better overall than the PETG. Just not convinced on the elasticity or strength. One of them I de-supported yesterday literally crumbled.

Printing another at the 1st setting to see what it does, curious if it's consistent at same settings or is the filament changing with the humidity. We had a big melt down last week, so it's slightly more humid out. Currently at 42% in the house, which is kind of dry.

 

Not bad progress

 

Camera really brings out the layer lines...they don't look this bad at all in person.
I ordered a complete new print head, the entire thing, extruder and all. This thing has been troublesome since the day it was opened. The NEO has the same head and does a much more precise job. I could just switch them, but hate to compromise a machine that is currently working. At $34.99, it's a cheap potential improvement.
The Kobra 2 clogs quite a bit at the tip, been thru over 20 tips since July of last year, just opened my 3rd bag of 10. Have also replaced the hot end about 4 times now.
The NEO is on it's second tip in two years. That says something.

 

Printed this yesterday, PETG. Thumb piece for single handed driving. It shows much tighter lines.

So I'm trying a very unfair comparison. Printing another body out of PLA, using the PETG-CF settings, manually reducing the heat, on the NEO. I'll report back. I have a thought the heat may not be high enough on the PETG-CF.

 

spent some time today getting this enclosure for my ender put together. was a bit of a pain getting the last 2 corners in, but wasn't terrible.

then took some time to fine tune slicer settings for a print that will be printed like 20 more times throughout this month. had to check reddit for elegoo settings and bumped my print temp up 20 degrees and bed temp up like 5 degrees. looking good after the first layer.

 

If a guy wanted to print a diesel heater port for a camper, what would be the ideal filament that a Ender 3 V3 KE could print? I have some PET-CF, and some PETG, but unsure if that would withstand the heat? I'm not entirely sure how hot the air is that comes out the heater, haven't tested it yet.