What did you 3D print today?

Just a quick check tells me that 200C is 392F. I highly doubt your heater is pumping out that kind of temp. Melting/distorting probably isn't an issue. Getting brittle? Maybe? You could test by putting a test print in the oven at maybe 275 (which I think would still be high), letting it cool, then heating it again, then cooling it again. You might even put it right in the refrigerator for a real shock. I may try that in the coming days, just to see for my own information.

 

How to properly store PETG-CF filament?

An airtight container is highly recommended for storing filament and is an absolute must for PETG. A desiccant bag should go into the container with the filament to prevent moisture intake. We use an airtight container with desiccants and one of those AC powered EVA-DRY units, it stays about 15% humidity for opened rolls. We also use a drier when printing. You'll know there's too much moisture when you parts start feeling fuzzy to the touch.

 

PLA at 200c on the kitchen table.

Tried the exact same print with PETG-CF, just changed to the higher required heat settings, in the "enclosure", and the hood started to collapse midway thru, seemed kind of melty.
Re-sliced to add a few supports to that area and trying it again, open face enclosure this time, same settings. It's currently printing, I'll post it if it finishes.
the 3 magnets are used to attach it and are on the current body. They weigh 1g each.

I think the .4g difference is the glob of hot glue used to attach the magnets.

 

Got the B1 Battle Droid electronics back plate finalized for the exposed switches.

Top to bottom:
- Power On/Off
- Normal Mode/Excessive Mode (normal/chatty)
- A/C power converter plug

 

This may not be the optimal print orientation for my machine. Took several tries. Went to bed about midnight and said fuck it, see what it does. Woke up to this. Maybe that's the key, turn it on and leave....

Popped right off the supports, that so far has been the least of the problems for all the prints.

The left was printed flat with snug grid supports.
The right at an angle with organic. It definitely has some distortion and more pronounced layer lines on the doors. The hood looks ok, but I am accustomed to the horizontal lines now.

Underside scarring? doesn't really matter, it can't be seen. But I expected a little better.

A little processing would clean it up, but the lines are definitely more pronounced.


I have a roll of marsala in the same brand coming today. I have noticed that sometimes different colors print better than others.

 

Sides of the flat print deffinately look nicer. You could always just add a half or quarter mill thickness to the roof and hood so you have some extra meat to sand down. A minute per with an orbital sander would do the trick.

 

Moved the big printer to another room, and two of the feet fell off, the other two hanging by a thread....
Test cubes...


fml

Previous prints from last fall, I guess the degradation has been so slow, I didn't really notice.

 

Hella nice

 

Having solid feet made a difference.

Pillars look much better, all I did was remove the supports, nothing else.

 

Lol dude I came across this on marketplace and it reminded me of something.

 

I printed a truggy cage for the rear. It's becoming the thing in the pic.

 

This might be one of those stories of long lost twins separated at birth that ended up doing the same thing.

 

Some new prototype bump stops - designed for the shell to compress with designed-in folding points.

 

Your settings are way off, that print is super fuzzy.

 

I guess my phone is trying to hide the unreleased product by putting it out of focus. Whoops!

 

Same material and settings.
The doors of the body are the only areas that I get the print lines. The back of the cab is smooth, as far as vertical walls are concerned. The doors however are thin, at .78mm. Back of cab is 1.2mm.
Compare it to the little storage box, which has no lines. Sides are 2mm.

My question is, am I asking it to do too many perimeters? I have it set for 3, side, top and bottom. If I set the sides for 1-2 perimeters, would that help with the layer lines on thin prints?

 

What layer height are you doing?

 

.02

 

It's gonna be limited to how accurate your printer is and print orientation. On a bed slinger without vibration compensation of the bed you're gonna get print lines like that no matter what, you can try slowing down the print so movements aren't as dramatic which in return might smooth out some of the lines but they will always been there.

You could also try hitting it with a clear coat to try and smooth it out too.

 

I wonder what the lines would do if you dropped it down to .12. .4mm nozzle, yeah?