What gauge wire do I need for fridge circuit?

I’ve got my fridge mounted in the bed near the tail gate.

I don’t recall how many amps it draws, I’ll have to check in the a.m., but can someone tell me what gauge wire I need, and what size fuse? I am currently only using the stock battery but will be adding a second in a couple of months. To help keep the battery charged I’ve got a 100w solar panel on the roof.

Also wondering if I need to run the neg all the way back to the battery (can I just run negative to chassis somewhere closer to the fridge?).

 

You really need to know the amps to know how to wire this because if you use too small of a gauge, the refrigerator won’t work well or worse

Running the negative to a ground (with at least the same gauge wire as the positive conductor) on the battery is preferable to using the frame when dealing with higher amp circuits.

Use this chart to help figure your wire gauge based on length needed and load (amps): https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amp/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

Also, note that your 100w solar panel will work to top off the battery, but also check to see it it will keep up with daily use of the fridge:

amp = watt / volt
amps = 100W / 12V = 8.3333A

And, since you are only using one battery, get a jumper pack just in case you chill your beer for too long! I made that mistake, but it was a good one- I was camping on a beach in Baja California with a girlfriend and we had the place to ourselves with plenty of supplies, so a dead battery was fine for a couple days.

 

Ok, that’s what I figured, on all accounts.

I’ll have to check the amperage in the morning.

 

need to know the specs of your fridge. should have amps listed on it. and there are numerous charts online to help you determine wire gauge. depends on you length of run from AND back to the battery. As said above I wouldn't use the frame as the ground for high current uses.

 

It’s not just amps but also length of wire as well, single wire, bundled etc

 

Fridge current < fuse rating < wire rating. The fuse protects the wire not the fridge.

 

12

 

13a, maybe a 25’ run from batt to fridge

 

One more suggestion- use larger guage cables than you think you will need for future mods back there. Then iin your camper, use a ground plate and a fuse block to terminate your power cables in the camper so you have a way to attach other goodies. Many out there, like these, but there are some smaller ones available, too:

$41 Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i1sfCbND4S79Z

$18 Blue Sea Systems 2314 100 Amp Mini BusBar with 5 screws and a cover

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...ocphy=9031498&hvtargid=pla-436661250661&psc=1

I also put a fuse block between the possitive terminal of the battery and the positive cable- there are several types, including circuit breakers with power switches too. They make it a lot safer in case your long power cable shorts.

 

If you have the owner's manual for the fridge you can find that info in there. Or prolly on the fridge manufacturer's website.

 

I ran 10ga from the battery to under the drivers seat on mine. Works fine.

 

For the dometic 3 way fridge, Id run 10 or 8 with a dedicated ground wire.

 

If I use too thick a gauge doesn’t it increase resistance? Anyway I’m just trying to get this hooked up last minute to get it off of propane...

 

Do you have the solar charger hardwired to the roof and battery or is it a temp type thing you set up when you arrive.

 

Cool. So if I want to allow for future accessories and a fuse block as @OnHartung'sRoad suggests, should I use 6, or smaller?

 

Personally, I would not put the fridge on a fuse/fuse block. I would (and did in the Airstream) run it with a Bussman breaker of appropriate size.

 

Permanent

 

I considered this and may go that route, but the breaker ant be sourced today

 

You have the best bed rack in the whole world!

 

I’m a fan myself!