What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

I just ordered the Gates serpentine belt kit from Rock Auto and plan to do this job next weekend. So which items (AC compressor or alternator or P/S or water pumps) need to be removed to get to the Tensioner assembly, for it's removal? And what are these "oil control screens" you mentioned? I'm a 6 speed manual transmission.
Thanks!

 

What happened where your red circle is at?

 

Oil control screens (2) are behind 14mm "bolts" that go in the heads (one each side) and they skim the oil before it enters the VVT-I system. The left head one can't be accessed without the AC and Alternator (and possibly the tensioner bracket) moved out of the way.

Due to the need for ridiculous extension and wobble and universal set ups necessary to reach the bolt heads on half the stuff down there I had to use my air impact, I hope you're more successful.


The job can be done by removing 1 AC lines clamp (lower center cross member) and 1 wire loom on the a/c compressor.

The other accessories, alternator and AC pump. just need to be unbolted but can be left hooked up.

I didn't but in retrospect I wish I had removed the battery for clearance.

There's a video I found through google, don't have the link now, of some professionals changing the tensioner on the FJ cruiser, same job, same issues, where he mentioned pushing a bushing back into the alternator lower bracket before removing using a breaker bar and hammer, I didn't get what he ment when watching it and promptly forgot that step, had to jury rig a 1/4" socket reversed extension and my air hammer to persuade it to open up when putting everything back together.

 

That's what I was thinking. I haven't had the time yet.

 

Thanks for that @Key-Rei
I think I just watched the video you are referencing, A1Auto series with the bearded really happy mechanic guy.... and I saw that part about persuading that small bushing or whatever in, prior to removal of the alternator.

So back to the Oil control screens: when these 14mm bolts are accessible is it a remove clean and reinstall thing? or replace thing?
You wouldn't have a picture of their location??

 

Put on some DD SS3 Pros. Hopefully I aimed them low enough. I’ll check tonight and adjust as needed.

 

Been wanting these wheels since the first time I saw them years ago. Finally pulled the trigger since I saw the prices increasing everywhere, figured they'll get harder and harder to get. Painted myself, which was a whole learning process in and of itself. Guy at the tire shop said they looked factory painted, which was nice to hear. Very happy with out they turned out.

 

Have those in gunmetal, love em. Looks good!

 

Holy Crap just did a brake job on the 2nd gen today. I've had the truck for a year now and never taken a tire off. I had to use 2 - 3ft sections of 6x6 pressure treated wood on the ground and then lay my floor jack on that. Even at this I only had a 1/2 inch of lift to spare. Brakes where a breeze but damn I think I need a high lift with the "Slider Adapter" like ASAP. The bottle jack ain't going to cut it on the side of the road.

 

Good choice! They’re one of my favorite oem wheels!

 

Halfway there. Everything is wired up except the switch in the cab. I'm deciding if I want to see if I have any black gutter guard to either put on the sides or across the front, since it sits back almost enough for that.

I ordered the wrong brackets but didn't want to send them back. I originally wanted the stealth ones and accidentally ordered the flush.

I'll wire in the switch when I install the remote start. Everything else is done, including running the light bar trigger wire into the cab.

 

looks awesome I miss when my truck looked like that. What's your suspension setup?

 

Not today but the past week. Drive down to CO had Ironman stage two lift put on, new shifter bushing, and Meso dome light. Then drove back up to ID. I80 in WY is crazy, 70+ mph gust. Saw at least six semis laying in the side and a truck with camper flipped too.

before


After

 

Maybe you should lower that thing in those winds? With all the semi's blown over!

 

Installed 2017 OEM TRD OR leaf springs and sumo springs, 1000lbs blue ones. I had Hellwig over load springs on my 2015 stock springs. The ride isn’t as stiff and jumpy as it was with the Hellwigs and lowered the back about a 1/2 inch. Haven’t had a chance to see how they do with a loaded bed.

 

It's probably not what you're looking for but I just keep a couple of square blocks in my truck.

 

I keep 2 6X6 in the truck as well. My truck is just too tall for me to place a bottle jack on top of a 6X6 and feel good about the outcome.

 

thanks!
I’ve got the maxtrac spindles upfront paired with Donahue racing coilovers set to 0, and the rear has icon 2.0 RR paired with a Frankenstein leaf pack I put together.

 

They're cheap enough that I just bought new ones (and the aluminum crush washers) they're used on pretty much all Toyota's with variable valve timing so basically ever car since 2005 so the dealer should have them on the shelf.

Mine were so clean there wasn't much point in replacing them after I got them out. The concern is they can develop scale, so long as you're changing your oil regularly they shouldn't get dirty they're mainly to catch sludge, but regular changes and a good PCV system prevents sludge.

I don't have an actual picture of their location but they are in the heads near the front, the passengers side one can be seen and reached from the fender well with the tire on if you have a lift. here's the Toyota parts schematic:



15678A is the filter item number, if you need the actual part number I still have my order baggie at home.

90430-16007 is the crush washer

Torque spec IIRC was like 30ft lbs but you should look that up in the torque spec guide on here.

 

Gave it a wash to spray off the week’s road salt, especially from the undercarriage.