What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

I did UCA's, swapped out coils on my 5100's and new LCAs on all in a day. I even bone headed one side and put the coil in upside down when I was in cruse control and not thinking so I had to redo that side anyways.
$450 for just UCA install is way too much. Even if your alignment is $100 of that, it's still too much. Just my .02

 

Ok thanks for the heads-up

 

Yes. I have several friends that have stock piles of parts so this thing should end up costing me around $2k when it's done. I've owned over 30 bikes but never a Harley V twin.

I got everything so far from one really close friend of mine for $1k. Until I pay him that $1k I won't get the paperwork for it. He's claiming he doesn't recall the frame's manufacturer but I trust him and calling BS on his memory (lol) because he was going to build the bike for himself and there's no way he doesn't know the name of the manufacturer. He's built dozens of bikes from the ground up and he's super picky about his own stuff. That Iron Cross in his/my frame is home made, super cheesy and crooked, so it looks like I gotta pay $1k to find out who made it (lol).

Shops have huge amounts of overhead, just the insurance alone is enough to make a shop go under. I don't know of any shops in my area that charge less than $125 an hour. Plus shops don't charge actual wrench time, they charge what the book tells them to charge. The price you were quoted is dead on for my area.

With that written you'd be crazy to pay it (lol).

Bullseye

It's not that difficult. Ask TW members for help that are in your area.

Bullseye.

I was quoted around $480 to change LCA bushings, thankfully I was already wearing my diaper when I heard that. Jk

 

I was just quoted $1220 to install new LCAs from the dealer. That's parts, labor, and alignment. Labor was $299. I had a bunch of Amazon credit and I got Moog LCAs for $115 and might have the dealer do it so they can also align the sumbitch.

 

Very very nice build wow!

 

So on my way to work this morning out of no where my truck lost power, Traction control light turned on and check engine light started flashing. I pulled over shut it off and inspected under the hood, wheels and drive shaft. didn't see anything, then I turned it back on and no lights and driving fine. Anyone had an experience like this? or know what happened? Going to scan it after work but this is the first time I've seen this.

 

Alternator sounds like its going out.

 

I'm almost at 160k so that wouldnt surprise me. I was thinking something with the wheel speed sensor but I have no clue.

If its the Alt what is the best place to get a new one. And/or is there a better aftermarket one?

 

As long as you don't have any serious power draw i would just order a new OEM one. No need to go aftermarket.

 

Thank you !

 

I fully expect at least one broken cv axle or bent tie rod by the end of this year, I will accept no less Going to need a video of the front locker in action too lol

sounds like a time I was working on the truck and quickly slapped the battery terminals on without tightening them for a quick test drive. I would try to twist and pull the battery terminals hard. If there's any give then tighten the battery terminals with an actual wrench or ratchet to make sure you have good solid contact. And get the alt checked too like @Brian422 suggested.

 

Ok peeps, I'm getting ready to trim my flairs and raptor line my truck but i haven't landed on the colors what do you think? White or copper?

 

White has been done and looks great(@EatSleepTacos). I'd say go copper just to be different.

 

I would try and pick something relatively close to your stock color if you plan on doing it yourself. That way you don't have to do door jams, under the hood, etc. I have a white truck and lined my truck white and you can't even tell at a glance, which I prefer.

 

For alt options I have $375 from my local stealership or this one from Amazon. Is it worth the savings?

$155 New Alternator Compatible With Toyota Tacoma V6 4.0L 05-15, 4Runner V6 4.0L 03-09 270600P010, 270600P02084, 2706031020, 270603102184, 2706031021, 0124325123, AND0394, 40052320R, AND0335, 40052166

https://www.amazon.com/27060-0P010-...rds=toyota+270600P02084&qid=1612286101&sr=8-3

 

The one you linked says it’s a denso which is oem so I think you’d be fine with it.

 

I fucking hate spray painting...



But. The rusty rock chips on my front bumper were pissing me off. So it was time.

 

Thanks!
Was this a recent install or couple years back?

 

Got my switch panel for my lighting fitted to the console. Just a hint of trimming that factory cup holder holder will cover if I decide to remove it, and a little Kydex thermoformed to fill the gaps. It's nice that I was able to retain the cubby hole (for now) and that the switches are easy to get to but not obtrusive.

 

Changed the central carrier bearing and all 3 u-joints in the driveline. $150 in parts and a few hours vs the $1,500 the Toyota dealer wanted for a full driveline replacement. If the bearing goes out again, I’ll get a solid shaft from Tom Wood.