What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Fast n Furious??

 

UHMW Polyethylene would be my choice:

UHMW This Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene bar has exceptionally high abrasion and impact resistance properties. It will outwear all other materials, including metals, nylons, urethanes, and fluoroplastics. In corrosion resistance, it has the same qualities of other polyethylene plastics. The working temperature range is from -60 to 200 deg F. Because it resists wear, friction and corrosion, it cuts maintenance costs, energy consumption, and extends equipment life. Applications include guide rails, wear plates, rollers, conveyor augers, bin and hopper lines, chutes, bearings, bushings and gears. Its properties include: low coefficient of friction, self-lubrication, non-adherent surface, FDA and USDA concurrence for contact with foods, drugs, etc.

Compared to:

POLYETHYLENE HDPE Rigidity and tensile strength of the HDPE resins are considerably higher than those of LDPE & MDPE materials. Impact strength is slightly lower, as is to be expected in a stiffer material. These sheets can be heat formed, shaped and welded to fabricate ducts, hoods, and much more. They have excellent corrosion resistance to a wide range of items. HDPE cannot be cemented, but are easily welded with a plastic welder. It can be cut with a wood saw and drilled with regular metal bits. Not UV stabilized but meets FDA standards. The High Density Polyethylene has a density .95. Rigid, good impact and abrasion resistance. It is white translucent with a working temp of -60-180 deg F and a forming temp of 295 deg F.

ABS Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene-This is haircell finish one side ABS sheet. It has good impact strength, formability, stiffness, excellent aesthetic qualities, and toughness, plus general purpose, low cost material. Applications include aircraft interior trim, cassette holders, tote bins and trays, automotive parts, luggage, and more. ABS is an extremely versatile thermoplastic. It has good chemical and stress-cracking resistance. It also combines toughness with rigidity and creep resistance. The strength of ABS depends on temperature. ABS is easily thermoformed and lends itself to remarkable reproduction of mold detail. Extruded ABS sheet can be easily heat formed using any conventional thermoplastic sheet forming equipment. The maximum working temp is 185 deg F and the forming temperature is 325 - 350 deg F. Black is UV resistant, while white and natural colors are not.


https://www.eplastics.com/sheets

Huge Selection of Plastic Sheets In Stock & Cut-to-Size from ePlastics.com. Plexiglass, Polycarbonate, Fiberglass, HDPE and many more. Sheets, Rods, Tubes ...

 

All stealership prices are absurd, I would tackle everything you feel comfortable doing yourself to save the money. While gathering things for those jobs read through some of the trans flush threads and fluid flush threads across the forum there are some very good write ups. lots of times the different flushes use the same or like tools that you dont have to buy twice. (Fluid hand pump) In the event you did all this yourself you could probably do it for about the price they quoted you for the trans flush alone. Almost all auto parts stores take used fluids to be recycled for small fees if you are worried about getting rid of it. Some do it for free, not many but some do.

Rattle on acceleration, does it sound like its coming from the engine or the drive train? Does it rattle in neutral when slowly climbing the RPMs or only when its in gear moving down the road? Thats usually a quick sound test to get you started looking. If it rattles in neutral its engine related, could be tacoma tick or about a dozen other things. If it only does it when in gear going down the road it could be driveline joints. Get under the truck and check out your drive line U joints and all mating parts.

 

Front/ rear diff and transfer case is very easy to change out. Couple YouTube videos around too

 

Thank you for the response! I will do the transfer case, rear/front and see how that goes in terms of trans/coolant. Appreciate the encouragement. In terms of rattle - no rattle in neutral, none while coasting in gear. Only on acceleration...I will look at driveline - not sure what to look for though?

 

That's super expensive for just fluids. I pay 260$ for a trans flush down in the southeast and that's the only one I'll let them do because the fluid alone is just over 200. The diffs and coolant are super easy as long as you make sure you can remove the fill plugs on the diffs first and properly burp the coolant system

 

That is correct Sir.

 

Its just turning wrenches. If you can turn a wrench to drain the diff, you can turn a wrench to drop the transmission pan. Seriously just do your research and take your time. Then take the $800-$1000 you saved and do something fun with it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/page-15#post-23031254

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...oil-change-howto.147631/page-67#post-22912730

 

LOL Save the CATS

 

The rear diff is crazy easy and takes about 10 minutes tops and only the cost of the fluid.

The coolant is really easy, too, and takes only the cost of the fluid which is like $60; I changed my thermostat at the same time which was another $60. One of the bolts is hard to get to but that’s a lazy explanation.

I’m about to do the trans fluid drain/fill which is really easy, too, and will cost about $80 since I’m gonna drain/fill, drive a week, then drain/fill again. This way gets you changed about 44% of the original fluid. Any more than that isn’t worth it unless you do a full flush which is typically unnecessary or frowned down upon.

Might as well do you power steering while you are at it which is easy, too, and costs only 1 quart of fluid.

You can save asstons of money by doing it yourself. Then, you know it’s done and done right. Keep your receipts, and write the mileage down on the top so you can track your intervals. If you can change your own oil then you can change all these fluids.

 

Which 303 product do you use underneath the truck. Looks great, by the way.

 

Those prices seem ridiculous...IMHO, but then again I do all the preventative maintenance myself, for almost 3 decades, so my frame of reference for pricing is a bit dated. I only go to the dealership for recalls and parts, which I order online and pick up at the dealership. Dealership usually offer way better pricing through their online storefront.

If you don’t want to do the work yourself do your research and find a good local mechanic and get prices. If you go the “do it yourself” route this forum is a tremendous resource, as well as other places such a s decent YouTube videos.

 

Tires look good, flat not so much!

 

Parts, tools and accessories arrived today.
I'm going to install the lock cylinders first and then install my tail gate lock and code it to the new key.
The pouch is so I can put my wheel lock (aftermarket wheels) in the truck and not have it loose.

I ordered the pouch on Amazon, tried to order it from the dealer and they said they have to order 30 of them at a time.

$16 TOYOTA Genuine (PT276-06999) Wheel Lock Pouch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P3FZPI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the new crimper I can finally start on my fuse/relay boxes. Hopefully it works well and I get a good crimp.

 

Till today I have done nothing. But garage kept it and covered for 6 years. Just last year added a few things. Only 762 original miles.

 

I am going to do it! So the trans drain fill that you are going to do - will you replace the gasket?

 

4 more pages to reach 10,000. Holy shit

 

One tip I can give you is to make sure you can get the fill plug out first. I've seen a couple times where someone has drained a diff and can't get the fill plug out to refill it.