What is the Problem? 1st gen rubbing frame

Okay so I have bilstein 5100s set to plus 1" in the front and am running 265/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers. The right (passenger) front tire is rubbing on the frame when the wheel is turned a significant amount to the right. It does not rub on the left side. I was in an accident almost 2 years ago and I was t-boned in the front right of the vehicle. Since then I have added the shocks and tires to where I now have this rubbing. Is my frame bent? Or maybe it is just a bent component? The knuckle was bent and has been replaced and the truck has been realigned.

 

here's a picture of the spot on the frame.

 

Are you on stock wheels? This can happen if you are running wheels with greater offset (like those from 2nd gen Tacos).

 

Yes stock wheels.

 

Then the following components may be bent or tweaked from your accident (in order of most likely to least likely):

1. right lower ball joint bracket (which connects the tie rod to the knuckle and forms the steering stop)
2. right front inner tie rod
3. right outer tie rod
4. steering rack
5. lower control arm

Count the number of exposed threads on the left and right tie rods. Are they about the same?

 

here is a picture of the passenger side so like 3 threads

 

and the driver side with 10+ threads

 

My tires rub when turned full lock to the left, but not right (265/75/16 BFG AT), when i asked my dad (mechanic) why it did that he said that the steering rack turns farther one way than the other, all cars (supposedly) do it.
I'm just gonna put 1/4'' spacers up front with extended lug nuts and studs (when i feel like spending the money)

I've got 5100's set on the middle setting also.

 

Yes but I think my problem is dude to something being bent from being in an accident I have read the 265/75/16 does not rub for other people on here so I'm not so sure it's just the steering rack for my truck.

 

My 265/75/16s rub both sides equally. Stock wheels, 2" lift (5100s & 881s) I wouldn't be concerned.

 

You mentioned the accident bent the knuckle (aka spindle). It's quite possible the lower balljoint bracket may be tweaked also, since it's mounted right at the bottom of the knuckle. The bracket also happens to form the steering stop. I suggest you replace it, especially the lower balljoint is due for replacement at this age anyway.

 

Okay. Where can I buy a quality one online do you know? A link would be great.

 

For balljoints, it's advisable to buy the genuine Toyota part because it lasts longer than aftermarket brands (including good brands like Moog).

Example link: http://tps.toyotaofdallas.com/parts...PENSION COMPONENTS&component=Lower ball joint
(pick the part labeled "Lower ball joint W/PRERUNNER Right - #16")

 

In addition to all the items Mr. KenLyns mentioned, Toyota want's you to have no more than 1.5mm difference in the tie rod end threads showing.
Your pics are way off, something is fubar so continue your investigation. Start with centering the steering rack travel along with centering the spiral cable.
Check out this thread, post 59 will be relevant to your situation. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/252256-how-do-alignment-home-3.html

 

Okay so I read it. Did not understand it all the well (only read it twice). But you clearly know what you are talking about. And I am thinking that the alignment shop I last took it to clearly did not understand what they were doing. If you can help walk me through this it would be greatly appreciated. In layman's terms what should I do as step one?

 

Without knowing your mechanical abilities, let's start with the understanding that this stuff can and likely will open a giant can of worms. At some point you will have to use your intuition, logic and deduction skills to find where your truck is deviating from the norm. This will be further complicated in the likely case of a bent component and/or the frame itself that is not readily visible.

A good shop should be able to center the rack and spiral cable in about ½ hr. Due to the fact that a subsequent alignment will be needed anyway, I suggest finding a good alignment shop that understands these issues and have them do the whole bit.

If you feel up to giving it a go or you just want to understand what’s happening, here’s the basic line. The process should start with centering the steering rack and this should start providing insight (to an experienced eye) as to what is going on with what is bent. Remember to put marks on any linkage parts you separate or loosen. This will be for reference further on in the project and will give you the ability to put things back together “as they were” if need be.
First, with the wheels straight ahead secure the steering wheel with some rope or tape so it will not get turned accidentally. Now disconnect the lower steering shaft from the rack at the rag joint (2 bolts) and pop both outer tie rods off the spindles. At this point the rack can be cycled from lock to lock by turning the rack shaft or “control valve shaft”. Go from lock to lock slowly while counting the turns (as exact as possible) then come back half that. The rack is now centered, leave it and don’t let the shaft get turned.
Now on to the spiral cable. With the rack still disconnected follow this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...ing-wheel-spiral-cable-clock-spring-tech.html Note that you may have 2 “plugs” over the size T-30 Torx screws or the passenger side may have a little plate that pops off instead of a plug.
When that is done you will need to connect the rack back to the steering column. With the steering wheel straight and the cable centered, the rag joint may or most likely will not line up. Line it up by removing the spline joint clamp bolt completely and removing the lower part of the rag joint from the rack shaft. Replace said part back on the splined rack shaft in the closest position that will allow the 2 rag joint bolts to be installed then tighten the clamp bolt. Do not turn the steering wheel or rotate the rack shaft during the operation. The steering is now centered. At this “zeroed” point the alignment process and simultaneous search for bent things can begin.
Keep in mind the steering could already be centered and the alignment folks just compensated for the bent part with the unequal tie rod adjustments. No one can know without checking it. This may be all that can be done if the frame is bent, short of first getting it straight.

 

So I finally had time to take my truck to an alignment shop and have some trustworthy people actually look for the problem. It was a 68 dollar charge to look at and that is all it ended up costing me because it turns out the last shop that did the alignment was just uneducated and now everything seems correct. Both sides now rub instead of one side but atleast all the steering is correct and you have to turn the wheel a lot to get it to rub so I am happy with the out come.