What lift do I have?

Hopefully this Tapatalk app works..

 

I don't see any evidence of cutting so maybe it has been unaltered?

 

take a picture of the rear of the differential where the driveshaft bolts onto the differential

 

Done, it's a little dirty...

 

Get some 5100s all the way around with eibach coils and an aal

 

Your rear crossmember has been cut.

 

That sounds ominous, does that mean that I won't be to replace the lift by simply buying new a coil over set?

 

You will have to remove all the pro comp parts and replace the large section of factory crossmember that was cut out which may be complicated since you don't have the piece that was cut out.

 

Pull the Pro Comp junk and replace it with a good 6" kit. Or piece together a SAS from the local junkyards and do it right.

 

FML!!! A good shop should be able to fabricate a new cross member right? Not interested in going higher, I feel that it's already underpowered and plan on a 4.56 swap this summer. I would like to go 3" and and keep the 33's. Otherwise...truck for sale!!

 

A good 3" lift would be better for most purposes. An SAS is a completely different story.

Not familiar with this, but your best option would probably be cutting a crossmemeber out of a junkyard truck, and fitting it to and welding it on yours.

 

This is your easiest option.

You can probably just get some stock sized struts to replace the ones in there but not a long term solution I would pursue.

 

I have found the part here I believe:

http://www.toyotaoempartsworld.com/...=&component=&searchText=&startRow=1&maxRow=10

I can't determine if it's item #5 or 6? If it's 5 then $90 is pretty good for a brand new one, if it's 6 . I will go to the stealer and get a part number and research a replacement. I have limited welding skills but have a few buddies who are school trained that would make the replacement work. It seems like a daunting task. I haven't found a write-up for anything like this so I'm assuming this isn't a common problem.

 

I think it is #4 in this diagram:

http://www.toyotaoempartsworld.com/...siteid=215233&vehicleid=70001&diagram=8510135

Haven't verified and might be best to cross reference with your local dealer.

 

Thank you for all of the help TW. I took it to a shop and he suggested that there might be a lift solution that would allow the current cross member to remain and use a coil over with a 1" spacer. This would eliminate the need to try and find the stock version. Now, he's a custom jeep shop that has a guy who dabbles in Yota's so I'm not sold that he knows what he's talking about. Has anyone heard of this?

 

If you want to keep a 4" lift then leave it as it is. Otherwise 3" is the general consensus for maximum suspension lift on a 1st gen Tacoma. Anything taller will lead to problems with the CVs and ball joints.

 

I'm guessing he's talking about setting you up with a standard 3" lift C/O and adding a TPS to get the 4" that the original lift was set up for.

Not the optimal solution in many people's opinions but it will work. You're still going to be stuck with that UCA/spindle spacer.

You can get a leaf pack custom built to match to get rid of that block in the back or do some Dakars or similar and add longer shackles to get the right ride height.

 

If OP really wants to get rid of that 4" junk, then he'll need to step down to a 3" IMHO. Anything else is asking for trouble and is lacking in performance. Even at 3" down travel is limited.

Cheapest and easiest: order a setup like an OME coil and a strut of you're liking. Order a rear Dakar or 4-5 leaf pack equivalent. Pick up a set of upper and lower ball joints. May a well do tie rods while you're at it. When all parts are there, you can pull that 4" kit off and put all your new stuff on at one time and be done. Get an alignment after a few days and you're done.

As for the crossmember, I don't think it's life or death critical unless you go out ramping jumps. Source a fix and get it put on when you get it. Even a piece of channel iron that can swallow it could be welded in.

 

I agree with this, just one major problem: the crossmember that was removed is where the steering rack mounts. It is currently mounted to his drop bracket stuff.

 

That's been the crux of this thread as of late. The OP has a limited budget and has to deal with the DB lift the PO installed. The options on the table:

1. remove everything, weld in a stock crossmember and put on an OME or similar 3" lift.

2. Leave the DB in and find a 4" C/O + TPS solution to replace the current struts.

I think everyone agrees that given an unlimited budget, Option 1 is ideal. Given a limited budget, would a C/O + TPS solution be ok and what is recommended?

I'm thinking an OME 881 or 882 coil plus a daystar 1.5" leveling kit might work but never done it to know for sure.