What speakers did you upgrade with?

Stock location for tweets isn't too bad. I'm using low resonance tweeters crossed at 2khz with a 4th order slope. With a little bit of work I've gotten the stage up on the dash, but I have more work to do in getting things centered. The sail panels won't accept such a size tweet without almost destroying the clips or having to build out. Either of which I'm not willing to do.

Pillars are a good option but I'm not too fond of having things where prying eyes can see.

 

I just want door speakers and tweeters because my passengers side speakers are blown, I purchased a front door kit with kicker kss67 kit and mounts through *********, I plan on keeping the stock hu, the kit came with crossovers, do I need to install those too? I'm not planning to add an amp or sub

 

Yes, you need to install the xovers.

 

If you want to go the cheap way and save some money. Just put a sub and run a 5 channel amp onto the factory speakers until they where out. You would be surprised how much power the factory speakers can take. Not enough power out of the factory head unit.

 

The stock mids aren't too bad if a high pass filter is applied. They appear to have no low pass filter as well so they seem to roll off naturally.

Biggest issue I saw with the stock speakers are the cone tweets that barely had any output or fidelity. I'd definitely change those. Add a small sub and should be good to go for a bit.

 

Why would I need to? And where would I hook them up to if I'm going to keep my stock hu? The diagram shows I need to have an amp, can't I just use the speakers as just speakers and tweeters?

 

The crossovers route the proper frequencies to speakers to not only protect the tweet, but keep them from sounding harsh. You don't need to have an amp although at least a little more power would help dynamics.


The crossovers go before the speakers. It splits from there. Behind the door panel in a nook somewhere safe from moisture would be ideal.

 

Ok, I'm trying to understand.
The tweeters have individual connections going to them, do I not connect them to the original connections and connect them directly to the crossovers and as well as the speakers?
I feel I'm over thinking this, I just feel confused by the wiring instructions provided by the kit

 

That's exactly how it's done.

 

Here's the kits suggestions

 

Yes. Now in your mind, erase the amp and place the headunit in it's place. The wiring is already in the door. Stock wire to crossover. Crossover to speakers. Simple.

 

Ok thank you for clarifying.
Would I need to run both stock wiring from tweeters and speakers to xover? Or just the stock wiring from the speakers? Hopefully that makes sense

 

Only the stock wiring feeding the crossover. From the crossover to the speakers use new wiring

 

Thank you for your help, I really do appreciate it

 

You're welcome.

 

I'm keeping my head unit for now. I have JBL GTO 6x9s up front and the GTO 6.5 in the rear. Then I have a audiocontrol lc2i (installing) for my subs. Currently I'm using a crappy passive line out converter to get sound to my PPI 10s and kicker amp. It sounds really good like it is now but when you add subs you can definitely hear the bass roll off from factory, which is why I bought the lc2i LOC.

Next I'll get a amp for my JBL door speakers

 

most here that have used the Audiocontrol products end up with something else for line-converters. YMMV

it seems they are really prone to noise with the factory head unit [hiss]

 

If your working with that big of a budget you might as well get a proper real good quality Processor, and have a matching front end. Having all bass with no front stage is well..... pointless

 

...having no bass in your front stage is....common?

 

I concur. The drivers in each door is way off from each other so time alignment is needed to tighten up upper bass to midrange frequencies, lift the sound off of the floor, & away from localization of where they are. If you don't want to use a pricey processor, at least upgrade the head unit to one that has time alignment.