What to know for 100K maintenance.

Hey Guys and Gals,

Long time no post, but I've been lurking on and off.

I have a scheduled maintenance at the dealership tomorrow and I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are on the "required" items. I'm currently unemployed(by choice) so money is tighter than usual. My questions are: how much of the below is 1) necessary 2) required to keep the Toyota warranty?

Background: 2017 Tacoma OR MT AC, 100k, over the past two years driven average ~4times weekly. I'm not exactly a "car guy" but I am fairly capable but don't own any specialty automotive tools.

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Service # 3 -Oil change, brake inspection, tire rotation and multipoint inspection $195.36
Lubricate Propeller Shaft $0.00

Tighten Propeller Shaft Bolts - $0.00

Brake Fluid Replacement - $135.12

Replace Iridium Spark Plugs $470.75

 

I know this is kinda late. Honestly I forgot about it till 15 mins ago, and have not yet searched the forum for similar posts.

 

At 100K mark you should be doing spark plugs (basic NGK OEM ones, iridium aren't needed), coolant flush (drain radiator and block), brake fluid flush (super easy), differential fluid changes if those weren't done, manual transmission fluid change, transfer case fluid change and do visual inspection of control arm ball joints, bearings, brakes, and other fluid leaks. If you are on a budget I recommend doing it all yourself and you'll be under $250 for fluids and parts (provided you have the right tools). Spark plugs are easy to do on these trucks and other jobs can be learned through TW and youtube.


Oil change at 195 is rip off to be honest, material cost is only $50 (dealer has it even for less), same for brake fluid change which is under $20, spark plugs can be purchased for around $70 for a set. Dealer shops are expensive and should only be visited for warranty work. Have you checked with independent shops in your area?

 

Wtf!!!!! $195 for an oil change

 

Thanks Norilsk, it all has huge markups which I can't stomach right now.

I though regular Toyota certified check ups and subsequent service were required for them to honor warranty.

In past jobs I've worked with 6 axis robots and designed basic mechanical automation, so wrapping my head around a couple YT videos won't be too bad. It's the lack of tools, warm work space that make me want to farm it out but it's the warranty questions that point me to the dealership...

 

at 100K your manufacturer warranty is expired unless you purchased extended. As long as you have proof of purchase of the parts I don’t see any reasoning for them to deny warranty work, and if they try to pull that trick it’s always a good idea to know and be friends with a local mechanic to make up those invoices they require. But I never gave you that advice

 

things to do on my check list since i'm just under 115k km now:

> Spark Plugs
> Coolant flush (which i think i'll wait for the next warm day or in the spring)
> continue ignoring that clunk in the front driver wheel

Never done plugs but i can't imagine it's too complicated. Pull the coils/ ignition pack/ know what i mean not what i say things, pull the old plugs, pray to the God of offroad that no dirt falls inside, put new ones in, and just make sure i torque it down to spec right?

I do my own oil changes since i got the truck, i never took it into the dealer outside of warranty changs (like that one time i did not accidently drill into my fuel filler hose trying to enlarge my bed drain holes)
regular oil change runs me something between $50-60 with oil, filter, and when i feel fancy the crush washer as well.
takes all of 30 minutes to do.

 

Canuckistan pesos aren't worth as much

Toyota's web site shows "service #3" includes pulling the calipers and drums for inspection. In principle this means a brake service (cleaning, lubrication) is included in the price, if the dealer tech follows the procedure.

 

I'm wondering if my diff fluid needs to be changed coming up on 100k. Should I be able to hear my 4wd? It's like a whirring while in use

 

mine is at 120k and I bought it at 100k there wasn't much out of the normal

 

The whirring (like the reverse gear in 1990s Hondas) in 4lo is normal. Shouldn't hear anything in 4hi.

 

I did my diffs at 35k, stupid early I know, but I wanted to make sure that there was no water in there due to my lack of diff breather. Fluid was actually pretty dirty. Kinda surprised. @Saturnine I also have a slight noise in 4H, kinda like a very, very, very soft whirring. Honestly not too worried about it tho. I could just be overthinking.

 

wash those areas heavily with brake cleaner the day before and remove all dirt, passanger side took me 5 minutes, driver side depends on your gymnastic skills anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 days and CAA tow. After removing couple brackets, I was able to swap in one hour on driver side.

I usually change diff oil every 50K and transmission transfer case every 90K or whenever it blows and replaced with another part, which is more often. Think front diff seen at least 5 fluid changes by now, transmission went though 4 fluid changes. Rear diff 8.75 (bigger - better) is staying strong for now

 

Short story
Semi-emergency update. Rear driver-side wheel is seized.
This is after completing the #3 service and sales rep telling me I have +5mm left on my pads all around. Truck made two stops on the way home, hasn't moved since Dec 12th
100,200km. No extended warranty

Long story
So I missed the garbage truck this morning, literally woke up to the sound of it passing the house. This week there was 3 times our weekly roadside limit, I normally use the empty cottages on a dead-end road nearby for our excess.

Raced outside, started the truck, brushed the snow off, cracked all the ice stopping the tailgate from opening, threw all our garbage in the bed and hopped in.

Now the driveway is paved with a slight grade down to the road, truck is facing downhill. Releasing ebrake is normally enough to start rolling......not this time. Squak a single tire and stall the vehicle trying to reverse. Completely bewildered, I circle the truck inspecting for ice buildup, minimal if at all. The whole time the garbage truck is making it's way through the rest of the neighborhood time is running out!

Hop back in, 4lo, boom we have motion. Expect my steering feels drunk. No problem, just turn the wheel till it feels right. Feels wrong man, feels wrong. I scoot maybe 10m before realizing I have a dumb wheel.

Recalculate, ebrake is confirmed off, 4lo seems potentially dangerous, engaging rear locker is out of the question, tire slid mostly on snow but some salt/dirt patches, now smack dab in the middle of the road with all the signs that I'm about to commit garbage fraud.

4lo is the only option, have to turn around at the T-intersection another 30m away, pick the right line to avoid areas with too much traction. No big deal. In that moment 3 vehicles, one from each direction, meet me at the intersection. One happens to be the garbage truck. After 30secs of waving my hands like a lunatic they all drive around me, gawking real hard.

Turned around, made it back, travelled through roughly 1ft of dry pavement. Parked on the lawn. WTF caused this!!! I appeal to the wizards of TW forums, look into your crystal balls, tell me how to magically fix this. Or point me in the right direction .I'm just past 100k, broke AF and currently livid from the greek tragedy I just lived through lol. What should be my next steps?

Found this after a quick search:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/09-tacoma-bizarre-problem-rear-wheel-locked.474039/



Also, followed the advice above and will be doing most of the work myself.

Spark plugs will be done over the holidays.

Dealer tried to sell me on filters, rear diff breather, told him I have the extension mod at home waiting to be installed. I bled the rear diff a month after Ardbeg Fall 2020 ~80,000km, bought the extension soon after.

I implied to the dealer that this would likely be the last time they see this truck now that the warranty is up. But want them to give it a good review to ensure it still meets their standards. But only perform tasks that I can't, decided to get the EFI & Throttle clean simply cause I cant do it myself. When I picked up the vehicle, sales rep was helpful and knowledgeable.


EDIT: EFI & Throttle clean, not ECU as I previously wrote.

 

Rear drum brakes are relatively easy to work on, you would need to pull the drum off to determine what caused seizure. Wheel cylinders can be had as low as $10 per side, hardware is also cheap. Check it all out on Rock Auto. I would recommend to purchase the brake spring tool like this when doing work.

$13 GEARWRENCH Universal Brake Shoe Retaining Spring Tool - 2774D, Red

K-D Tools KDT2774 2774 Unv Brake Shoe Rtng Sprg Tl : Amazon.ca: Automotive


But beyond that, pliers and muscles is all you need. Keep us updated on the cause!

 

Thanks for the input Norilsk. After distancing myself from this for a few hours I roughly came to the same conclusion.

Brakes are the likely the issue but what is triggering one to be applied an not the other is the real question. My guesses so far:

-Brake pad seating issue
-if the ebrake signal/tension/hydraulic pressure branches, one leg may be seized
-the brake modulated traction control is acting up and one wheel is getting the faulty signal to be locked.

At this stage I'll have to work on it at the end of the lawn, neighbors will get a show lol.

 

Most likely the cylinder is seized with our Canadian salty winters or mechanical e-brake components like lever or springs aren’t seated correctly. Happened to me before, when you take it off take multiple pictures to remember in which order things go back.

 

Quick inspection before the sun goes down.

Minimal rotation with audible squeak. If I pull the ebrake the drum seizes immediately.

https://youtu.be/MTMPnk0ThEY

Drum comes off tomorrow.

 

So I couldn't leave it alone.

Drum came off with relative ease. Axle now spins with mild hand applied force. Retracted the pads and the drum slides on and off without issue.

Pumped the brakes(not sure that was a good idea) and the cylinder splooged some oil. Add brake fluid flush to the list.

This is probably the original cause, and now I've ordered two replacements. That said, there is no guarantee that the cylinder is the root cause. I guess I'll know when I install the new cylinder.


I am assuming that since the hydraulic brake system has been breached all braking power is completely lost and the vehicle is NOT SAFE TO DRIVE, however if I had adjusted the pads inwards so there was no contact on the drum could the vehicle be driven short distances to get supplies? In other words can 3 of 4 brakes work if the pedal is pressed. I guess the retracted brake would have to max out it's range of motion first and withstand the hydraulic force.

 

Safety wise is up to you, can't recommend anything, but if it's leaking fluid I wouldn't drive it. But yes, you would need to change cylinder if you are seeing brake fluid coming out. Check the cable and springs as well for wear. And when assembling back pack it nicely with antiseize on backing plate where shoes contact with metal, then adjust the shoes tight enough for drum to slide over, and they will finish adjusting themselves the next time you reverse. If you got any questions, shoot here. How much shoes have of a wear?