1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

what weight mobil 1 to run???

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TRDfarmerTN, Apr 26, 2012.

  1. Apr 26, 2012 at 2:51 PM
    #1
    TRDfarmerTN

    TRDfarmerTN [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2008
    Member:
    #8801
    Messages:
    423
    Gender:
    Male
    20% tint, painted handles,painted grill, wet okole seatcovers,sockmonkey decals
    thinkin of switchin to synthetic in my 2012 here soon..prob use mobile 1 what weight should i use??
     
  2. Apr 26, 2012 at 2:54 PM
    #2
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2007
    Member:
    #1138
    Messages:
    14,256
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Jandy
    Lancaster, PA
    Vehicle:
    2016 GMC Canyon SLT w/ LineX and....
    Did you look in your owners manual? It'll tell you in there.

    My 07 manual recommends 5W-30, and that's what I use.
     
  3. Apr 26, 2012 at 2:58 PM
    #3
    wildjerseyfirefighter

    wildjerseyfirefighter I sell fishing and fishing accessories

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    Member:
    #11677
    Messages:
    7,958
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    05 Tacoma TRD Sport
    stock, for now
    Its also on the cap..530 is what i use
     
  4. Apr 26, 2012 at 3:08 PM
    #4
    TRDfarmerTN

    TRDfarmerTN [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2008
    Member:
    #8801
    Messages:
    423
    Gender:
    Male
    20% tint, painted handles,painted grill, wet okole seatcovers,sockmonkey decals
    alright didnt know if anyone usually switched once on synthetic...
     
  5. Apr 26, 2012 at 3:40 PM
    #5
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2011
    Member:
    #65439
    Messages:
    1,398
    Gender:
    Male
    michigander
    Vehicle:
    07 AC SR5 2.7 5MT 4x4
    tonneau
    Since I'm in a moderate climate I use M1 0w30, but on the v6 that's as thin as I'll go. If I towed (more than a jon boat), wheeled, or lived down south I'd use 5w30.

    The difference in mileage between 5w30 and 0w30 disappear after about 2 minutes past a cold start fwiw.
     
  6. Apr 26, 2012 at 4:04 PM
    #6
    tacomathom

    tacomathom Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Member:
    #38040
    Messages:
    877
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    It's not new, it's not Mexico
    Vehicle:
    2010 4 X 2 Regular Cab
    Chrome exhaust tip
    The lower the first number, the better the cold start protection, even in the summer. A full synthetic 0W-30 starts as a 30 weight oil then has viscosity index improvers added to let the oil flow like a 0W when cold. If your engine calls for 5W-30 you can safely use 0W-30 all year.
     
  7. Apr 26, 2012 at 4:28 PM
    #7
    tommyg29

    tommyg29 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Member:
    #70437
    Messages:
    159
    Gender:
    Male
    South Miami, FL
    Vehicle:
    12 DCLB PreRunner Sport
    manual says 0w-20 for a 4 cyl and 5w-30 for the v6
     
  8. Apr 26, 2012 at 5:19 PM
    #8
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2011
    Member:
    #65439
    Messages:
    1,398
    Gender:
    Male
    michigander
    Vehicle:
    07 AC SR5 2.7 5MT 4x4
    tonneau
    That's what I was hoping for. Save a little fuel on startup, plus cut down cold start wear because the oil system gets flow so fast.

    I just wouldn't use it on a habitually hardworking engine because 0w30 needs more VI than 5w30 and doesn't stay in viscosity range as long under high stress (in theory). For a daily driver though, why not...
     
  9. Apr 26, 2012 at 7:12 PM
    #9
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
    Member:
    #32186
    Messages:
    1,057
    Gender:
    Male
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors
    My truck is almost all Mobil 1 now. Engine uses 5/30, rear axle M1 whatever the closest viscosity is, power steering is M1 ATF, Front wheel bearing M1 grease and as of tonight the automatic transmission is double filtered and mobil 1 atf.

    Check the manual or filler cap as already mentioned. You might want to buy a good filter wrench. I don't have a 2012, being a 2010 I have the spin on filter. I believe yours takes the similar wrench as a Corolla. I forgot what brand it was, but I got an all aluminum tight fit wrench for the car. Was about $20. Part number is toy 0640 or something similar. The auto parts stores didn't stock the exact size.

    PK
     
  10. Apr 26, 2012 at 7:16 PM
    #10
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Member:
    #51057
    Messages:
    2,731
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    miguel
    boston,ma
    Vehicle:
    2010 4 door black
    None yet but soon all black.
    Not to highjack the thread guys but when should you change your oil. When i went to the dealer when i first got the truck it went from 3k to 5k back to 3k and its 5k and and im at 23k. Used my last free oil change last month. I should be ok at changing it at 5k right.
     
  11. Apr 26, 2012 at 7:20 PM
    #11
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2011
    Member:
    #65439
    Messages:
    1,398
    Gender:
    Male
    michigander
    Vehicle:
    07 AC SR5 2.7 5MT 4x4
    tonneau
    I don't need a wrench. My grip would give Chuck Norris the shivers.

    No really, a little while ago a buddy of mine took his car to get his oil changed (that I'd tightened the filter onto). They complained because it took 3 guys a half hour to get the filter off. Oops...

    M1 ATF is compatible with Toyota WS??

    Yes, 5k miles is what Toyota says to do if you have a v6.
     
  12. Apr 26, 2012 at 8:57 PM
    #12
    tacomathom

    tacomathom Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Member:
    #38040
    Messages:
    877
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    It's not new, it's not Mexico
    Vehicle:
    2010 4 X 2 Regular Cab
    Chrome exhaust tip
    Right. 5000 miles under normal driving conditions.
     
  13. Apr 27, 2012 at 2:09 PM
    #13
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
    Member:
    #32186
    Messages:
    1,057
    Gender:
    Male
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors
    Technically per Toyota no. After spending a bunch of time reading about WS and comparing specs to M1 atf, I decided the synthetic M1 atf was a better choice than the non synthetic WS.

    So far, the truck seems better in regards to shifting and also the movement of the shift lever out of park is no longer notchy.

    From what I read, there is nothing special about WS. Just a very low viscosity ATF. The M1 is more viscous but not much. When you compare other aftermarket fluids that are WS rated, they are also more viscous than WS.

    The M1 was previously an approved atf for the Type IV fluid, then that was no longer listed. The likelihood that the tranny manufacturer redisgned all the fluid paths for less viscous fluid is unlikely.

    Most probable reason they use WS is for fuel mileage.

    FWIW, the atf that I drained out had 25000 miles on it. It was noticeably darker than new WS and also the M1.

    PK
     
To Top