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What will happen if I don’t correct my paint before ceramic coating?

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by Rujack, Mar 11, 2019.

  1. Mar 11, 2019 at 1:26 AM
    #1
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I want to ceramic coat my paint but I’ve got some light-medium bush pin striping / scratches. I’m not too concerned about how the pin stripes look, but I do want to help keep the paint protected. I realize this is a bit of an oxymoronic thing to say but humor me if you will. I suppose I just don’t want the paint to get too beat up - I want it to do its job and protect the sheet metal.

    I don’t really want to correct or buff because I don’t want to cut the clear down.

    So what are the main considerations of ceramic coating over these kinds of imperfections?
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019
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  2. Mar 11, 2019 at 4:17 AM
    #2
    gorram

    gorram Well-Known Member

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    You could skip the heavier correcting stage with compound and skip to a finishing polish or even a paint cleanser. This will improve overall look and gloss but more importantly this will mechanically remove any previous protection that may still be there. This will give a sealant/coating it's best chance to bond with your paint. Strip washes and IPA (isopropyl alcohol) wipedowns will not remove a sealant if it's still fresh.

    Also along these lines claying the paint will significantly help with this and a light polish will correct some of the micro-scratches you're likely going to add while claying.
     
  3. Mar 11, 2019 at 8:43 AM
    #3
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This:

    Adam's Iron Remover - Dissolves Iron Particles Embedded into Paint Surfaces - Changes Color to Purple as it Works (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C39H9YX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tiOHCbY6NMWMZ

    Followed by:

    Dupli-Color EPS100000 Prep Grease and Wax Remover Prep Spray - 11 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002969BQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8eOHCbK8JH61T

    Would those be sufficient?
     
  4. Mar 11, 2019 at 4:19 PM
    #4
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the bump on this boring thread. Just looking for confirmation on the above.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2019 at 6:00 AM
    #5
    gorram

    gorram Well-Known Member

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    The iron remover yes, not sure there is much difference among the auto detailing brands feel free to choose whatever. As far as that Dupli-Color paint prep, I would spend a few extra dollars and buy a paint prep made by a detailing brand. The ones meant for prepping for actual paint could be too aggressive.

    Feel free to skip whatever steps you like before applying the coating, just don't expect great results. Prep is key with any detailing, skipping steps will just lead to poor results and a bad experience overall. Not sure if you're intending to skip the clay step, that wouldn't be recommended either.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:16 AM
    #6
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, good advice, but I’m confused by your recommendation to go with a better paint prep, but that a paint prep would be too aggressive. Mind elaborating or suggesting a product.

    This is exactly what I’m trying to figure out. I’m not looking to skip steps to save time necessarily, but rather skip the correcting step as I don’t want to cut down the thickness of the clear coat - especially if it will yield only a cosmetic benefit. I don’t care if water beads up differently along the imperfections for example.

    I’ll definitely clay bar. I don’t want contaminants in the paint.
     
  7. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:20 AM
    #7
    txtr_customs

    txtr_customs Active Member

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    Why wouldn't you just go ahead and buff as well? You already have so much prep work to help the coating bond. It will make it look better and function better if it has the correct surface to bond to. But I guess, technically you could just do an IPA wipe and the apply the ceramic. But it seems like a waste not to do it correctly. Just my two cents.
     
  8. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:28 AM
    #8
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Like I said, I don’t want to wear down the clear by buffing. Some of the scratches I have from trees etc are fairly deep. I’ll post a pic when sun comes up and dries the dew off the paint. Maybe that’ll give a better idea of what I’m working with...
     
  9. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:32 AM
    #9
    txtr_customs

    txtr_customs Active Member

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    Well you essentially breaking down the clear coat to give the coating something to bond to. And then you essentially have a better clear coat. I don’t know how long the ceramic coating would last if you skipped this step.
     
  10. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:34 AM
    #10
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What prep is involved when coating brand new paint?
     
  11. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:39 AM
    #11
    txtr_customs

    txtr_customs Active Member

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    I’m not 100% sure. But I might consider skipping the buff if I was doing brand new. I would still do and IronX wash and an IPA wipe. Again, I’m not a detailer so I’m not all knowing. Just my opinion. When I coated my brand new rims I just did the IPA wipe.
     
  12. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:42 AM
    #12
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m leaning toward the IPA wipe too. It’s been a few months since I last sealed the paint so following @gorram ‘s post I think this should be ok.
     
  13. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #13
    gorram

    gorram Well-Known Member

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    I meant too aggressive as in breaking down the clearcoat, like mixing up an IPA wipedown with too much alcohol in it, it's just precautions. Suggestions: Gyeon prep, IGL precoat, Carpro eraser... This item might be the least important of all the steps and more necessary to remove polishing oils or clay lube. A 10-15% solution of alcohol will be nearly as good.

    It's compounding the paint is what cuts the most into clearcoat, a finishing polish doesn't remove much clear at all. A light polish will also fix most of the microscratches the claybar created. Forget that the paint will overall look better but the coating will adhere better and last longer.
     
  14. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:49 AM
    #14
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Excellent. Thanks.
     
  15. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:54 AM
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    txtr_customs

    txtr_customs Active Member

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    If you’re set on skipping the buff. I would still wash with ItonX and at least do a clay bar.
     
  16. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:55 AM
    #16
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I will definitely be doing those steps
     
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  17. Mar 12, 2019 at 12:29 PM
    #17
    cvisinho

    cvisinho Well-Known Member

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    If you don't mind looking at scratches in your paint, dont buff it.

    Proper basic technique
    -Wash
    -Clay
    -Iron remover
    -rinse
    -polish
    -coating prep/IPA/Panel wipe (whatever you choose)
    -coating
     
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  18. Mar 12, 2019 at 12:49 PM
    #18
    gorram

    gorram Well-Known Member

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    Iron remover and other chemical decontamination should come before clay. Just so the clay bar has less things to pick up which leads to less damage done by the clay process.

    Saw one of the pro detailer's youtube video of using the iron remover before wash so some of the dirt will help it hang on the paint a little longer. Since you need to rinse it at that point you move right into the wash. You can work the clay step into or after the wash since you have the was solution to use as a lube.

    Detailers need these time saving steps more than an end user if you're putting a coating on in your garage/driveway take the time you need to get the prep right.
     
  19. Mar 12, 2019 at 12:55 PM
    #19
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    These are typical of what I’ve got throughout

    AA49637B-340F-4001-ADD1-CE98C8300541.jpg
    F57F037C-68FF-4BE6-83C3-729FEBD6737D.jpg
     
  20. Mar 12, 2019 at 12:57 PM
    #20
    Rujack

    Rujack [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys, this is the info I’m looking for...
     

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