What's going on with my fog lights?

Can anyone explain to me what's going on with my fog lights? It looks like someone tried to do the mod but I have no idea what all the wires mean, or what they are doing. Any explanation would be awesome thanks!

 

this goes beyond the 'mod'

that is not an OEM fog switch, looks like you have 100% hacked in fogs there, who knows how it's is buggered in

 

^^^ Yup

The OEM fog light switch is in the top row just under the vent, at the far left:

 

Time to properly re-wire.

 

^this. Probably easier to get new? You'll definitely need to pull those wires at the least. Shouldn't be too hard

 

The 2.7 4-cyl Tacomas aren't pre-wired for fog lights. That is one of the few available kits for adding fog lights but whoever did the install didn't care about properly routing the wires.

 

If you pull the wiring out see if you can salvage the relay, inline fuse, and switch in case you decide to rewire it correctly. Good luck.

 

I've seen some pretty hacked up wiring in my time. And what you've got (as unbelievable as it sounds) is nowhere near the worst. The pic that really concerns me is #2 where it looks like there's an exposed hot end just hanging there. If it is indeed hot and exposed, that's a short and / or fire waiting to happen.

As tough as this may sound, the best course is to rip everything out and start over. I've tried to salvage many hack jobs in the past and it never turns out to be worth it. If you don't know how to wire it properly yourself, take it to somebody who does. You'll me money ahead.

 

Does anyone know how to do this mod with a extended cab SR5 2012? I don't have the second small relay box so most the threads I find are useless to me.

 

First, what does the hacked fuse (with electrical tape) power, and have you disconnected that wire yet?
Your first step in rewiring will be to remove all wiring associated with the fog lights. Keep the wiring that actually goes to the fog lights as you will be able to reuse it.
Remove the switch from the dash (remove cubby under switch, push switch from the back to pop it out) and post a picture of the back of the switch with the plug attached so we can know which switch you are using.
You will want to purchase a waterproof relay with pigtail. You can get one on ebay or Amazon. You will also want to buy an add-a-fuse if there isn't one already installed to power the switch. You can reuse the inline fuse you already have to power the relay (NOT THE PODUNK ONE THAT IS JUST A FUSE WITH TAPED ON TERMINALS).
Mount relay to inner fender next to the fuse panel. Wire the relay as pictured below. The power supply line can be attached to the stud on the positive terminal on the battery post if you want (easy) or you can wire it into the factory fuse panel (cleaner but a little more work). The ground wire should be attached to a good ground. Mine are attached to the bolts for the main body grounding cable on the inner fender.

If the switch is a mictuning/ch4x4 style, wire it as this picture shows.

UNDER THE DASH....
Green wire will go to the add-a-fuse which will be plugged into the TAIL circuit under the dash (wire on the add-a-fuse pointing up). This will make it so the fogs can only come on if you have your lights on. If you want to turn them on anytime the add a fuse can be plugged into the IG1 or IG1 no2 spot. Use a 3amp fuse for the top circuit on the add-a-fuse and whatever rating the fuse you remove will be the rated fuse that goes in the bottom circuit.
Red1 will be a wire running from the switch through the dash and attach to the lead for 85 on the relay.
Red2, you can attach to the lighting wire from one of the unused switch plugs behind one of the blanks. Or if you attach the greed wire to one of the IG1 circuits, you can use a second add-a-fuse (3amp fuse) to attach Red2 to the TAIL circuit.
Black wire can be wired to an eyelet terminal and attached to one of the studs that the fuse panel mounts to.


When you re-run the wires for the fogs, run them so they will be out of the way and don't have birds nests. You can get 1/4" wire loom from Harbor Freight o put the wire in. Secure it wherever you run it, zip ties will be fine but remember to cut the excess off to clean it up.

With all the wiring, run the wires in an orderly way while keeping the wires loose-ish but secured through either factory wire clamps or by adding something to retain the wire.

Sorry it is so drawn out, but this will get you a cleaner install and will work. Again, whatever that fuse with the tape holding the terminals on is for, that is an issue that is more concerning than just a poor wiring job.

Edit: if you wish to use the inline fuse you already have in the engine bay, remove the wire from the fuse panel. Cut the wire on one side of the fuse with about 2 inches of wire remaining to attach to the relay. Leave the other wire long, but cut whatever terminal is on it off. Run the wire under the fuse block and up through the hole where the factory wire goes through. Run the wire on the inside of the block in a way to keep it orderly and free from movement. Run it about an inch and a half past the terminal it is currently plugged into. Add a new terminal to the end of the wire and plug it into the same one it is now (which I assume is a hot terminal). All connections should be soldered and covered with marine grade heat shrink (has a sealant inside the heat shrink tube). If this is not an option, use marine grade crimp on connectors that have heat shrink on them.

 

Thank you so much! I'll get on it this weekend!