Wheel Bearing Replacement

Reviving this thread with a question. The bearing nut calls for a 35mm socket. I have a 1 3/8 socket, which is 34.925 mm. Opinions on whether it's close enough? I'm no expert, but I'd be skeptical the tolerances on a 35mm socket are tighter than that for most ones off the rack.

 

You could always pop off your wheel center cap, cotter pin and that secondary metal cover thing (forgot what it's called) and see if it fits, I've also seen via YouTube someone use 36mm with no issues.

 

It should work fine.
It’s worked for others.
I’d rather it be tighter than looser.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/axle-nut-size-torque-spec-09-taco-4wd.327073/

 

Just finished this job (wheel bearing assemblies) and here are some comments for people yet to do it:

• Even on my Arizona truck the rotors were totally stuck on. If you are not on a budget I recommend buying new rotors so you can hammer the old ones off with impunity. One of mine was badly grooved anyway.
• The dust cap was a surprising PITA to deal with. For removal, use a chisel in the slot, not a screwdriver. Once it is barely started, get the steepest angle you can from the back and work around slowly. One of mine was really hard to get back on. Super frustrating so be prepared.
• My caliper bolts were really tight and there's not much angle to get an air gun in there. I ended up using a breaker bar to get them started, then hammered on a box wrench until they were loose enough.
• I saw videos of people hammering the bearing assembly off, but I had a "universal puller" from Harbor Freight and it made the job easy and controllable.
• Don't forget to put the dust shield back on before you install the new bearing, just sayin'.
• I took this from a youtube video: To torque the big bearing but, put a metal rod through the lug nuts at an angle against the floor to prevent rotation. Worked like a charm.
• Might as well do the brakes while you're at it. I chose not to do the seals since it all looked clean.

 

I thoght there were two threaded holes 180 degress apart on the rotor assembly that accepted M6 (?) bolts that would pull/push the rotor off as they are tightened. I could be wrong, it has been a while...

 

There are. I've heard it's common for these to strip out, but I had no metric bolts around to give it a try. Given that I had to use a mini sledge to pound it off, I'm slightly skeptical those little threaded holes could have done the job.

 

They work well, or they did on mine, anyway. As an aside, It took me 30 years of wrenching, but I have started using nickel anti seize compound on anything i think may ever need to come apart in the future, and Loc tite if it shouldn't. The stuff is gold (well, nickel, but you know what I mean.

 

I'm a fan of anti-seize too. I am a little cautious though. One time I used it liberally on some leaf spring U-bolts and they ended up loosening up off road and the axle fell out. Not a good day. One could argue that there was more involved, but that's always in my mind when I used anti-seize on things. I chose not to anti-seize the bearing assembly bolts. Incidentally, the bolts appeared to be pre-treated with a small amount of loc-tite if I'm not mistaken.

 

Did you guys grease the center of the rotors before reinstalling them? Thats where corrosion builds up and binds the rotor to the hub. Use a wire brush to clean it up and apply grease before installation so next time they are easy to remove.

 

My son (a Toyota / Lexus Tech) and I use Castle spray on High Temperature Anti Seize. (The copper stuff.) I wouldn't recommend grease due to the high heat generated in your brakes and the likelihood that the grease might liquify and run onto the braking surface.

 

Yes, but I use anti seize compound, not grease.

 

I hear ya! It's a bit of a calculation as to where to apply each!

 

Yeah, I put some anti-seize on the hub where the rotor mates. A video I watched put it on the bearing assembly mating surface, but mine was not stuck there at all. The dust shield is in-between so it seemed pointless.

 

I can assure that doesn't happen, maybe if you put gobs of it. I have been using the same tub of high temp bearing grease for some 20+ years and have never observed any liquification.

 

I used blue loctitie on the hub bolts.
One of my assemblies also had the pre-applied loctite. I did not use it on that one. But the dry type made threading the bolts in slow. As I had to use the boxes in the whole way in.

I used Lucas Red n’ Tacky.

 

I didn’t use anti-seize anywhere.
Loctite on the bolts. And grease on the axle splines.

 

When i did mine last spring i used the bolt that holds on the horn bracket
Of course i did the wrong side and had to do the other side a week later
Used the same bolt