Where the #*@! is My Coolant Going??

you could hand lap them a little. But I guess it would tighten them up that much more.
A bunch of shims to adjust clearance would cost more than a valve job.

 

Engine removal is not required and not included in cylinder head R&R. It's just something we do at my shop as it's what works best for us.

 

Alright, I'll see if the valves hold rubbing alcohol or if they leak. That said, the valve seals that came in my kit are two different colors. Does anyone know which is for intake and which is for exhaust?

 

Well, a tiny bit of 91% rubbing alcohol leaks past the exhaust valves. Not enough to form drops or drain the exhaust ports after several minutes, but enough to get the tip of my finger wet when I wipe around the valve on the combustion chamber side after it's been sitting for a minute.

 

it's metal to metal....don't expect a great seal.

 

Also, with heat expansion, it can seal a little better.

 

For the record, I have had seals on my heads look the exact same. Reassembled, and perfect compression numbers.

 

Well, some of the exhaust valves failed the water test. They leaked enough to soak the rag under the head. I called around, but every shop I talked to wanted $600 for a valve job even though I said I don't want the heads resurfaced, checked for cracks, cleaned, assembled, or the seals and guides replaced. One guy quoted me $34/valve when I said this, so $816 for 24 valves compared to his $600 for fully servicing both heads. Most others just seemed to ignore what I said like I didn't know what I was talking about, except another who said to bring them in and they will call me with an estimate. Nope, I know what it needs done, I'm not falling for that.

Is it normal to get this kind of run around? Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I just lap the valves until the seats look ok? I'm not paying $600 for services I don't need, like surfacing the heads when they are perfectly flat, or cleaning them when I already spent 4 hours scrubbing them.

 

go ask your local Harley machine shop guy....everytown has one.
They usually work on hot rods also and are most times are cheaper than the big machine shops that employ a dozen people.

 

Are you doing the test with the cams installed? If so, check your valve lash. On a few pair of heads of mine, the gaps were out of tolerance. Which in one direction, can cause improper sealing. Just as too much carbon build-up can.

If it is just too much carbon build-up, then they can be cleaned to help.

 

I did it without the cams, and scrubbed the valves really well a second time with a brush to make sure it wasn't carbon. They failed the water test a few times, so they are at a shop right now getting a valve job. All I can say is the bottom end better hold up on this engine. I've spent close to $1200 just in parts/machine work now.

 

Intake (taller, gray colored)

Exhaust (shorter, brown colored)

The difference between is the heat ratings. Exhaust has a higher temperature rating.

 

IT'S ALIVE!!! It took me a long time with how busy I've been, not having a garage, and temps dipping below 10F by 5pm on most days, but I finally did it. I drove it around today running errands and can say the repair was a success.

Stats:
valve job and heads machined
new head gasket (and most gaskets/seals replaced from the master gasket set)
new chain tensioner guide
new water pump
new radiator
new idler/tensioner pulley bearings
new belt
new spark plugs
cleaned sensors and plugs
painted valve covers, water pump pulley, and balancer bright red because why not

Thanks everyone for the help! I can't begin to tell you how nice it is to finally have the truck up and running. It runs smoothly and acceleration feels better too, like I recovered some HP. I missed the first few powder days of ski season, but at least I won't have to worry about breaking down on the way to slopes...or anywhere else for that matter.

 

Well done mate. Off to steep slope helicopter drops!

 

10 degees! Yikes, that woulda sat out winter for me.