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which brake rotors should I get?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by cadman33619, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. Apr 23, 2014 at 7:14 AM
    #1
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    searching around online for 2 front brake rotors...but I could use some recommendations. I def don't want the cheap auto store brands that rust after 3 weeks. I want vented or slotted rotors...something with a bit more 'quality' that wont rust.

    any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Apr 23, 2014 at 9:38 AM
    #2
    Mod

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    Research out carbon Fiber rotors. The hats connected to the CF rings will probably be aluminum. Problem solved,,no more rust. Big dollar quality.:D

    Ok, option 2#. Buy 2 brand new rotors and paint them VHT 2000° High heat. Follow VHT's directions for prep, prime, paint AND oven cure. The paint will darken after curing,,keep that in mind for your color choice. Paint all surfaces. Take them down and have a shop turn the pad contact surfaces clean again. This will slow the eventual rust.

    The reason I post this, is because I did the very same thing. I got about 5 years out of them before they showed signs of needing it again. The color was still there,,it was just a bit dusty and faded looking.

    The slotted/drilled stuff is for more heavy loads and hard pressures so the pads can vent the gasses off and the disk can dissipate heat easier, most of them eventually rust as well,,,but if you must. I think EBC makes a heavy zinc coated drilled rotor,,then the guys are using the green EBC pads with different results.
     
  3. Apr 23, 2014 at 9:50 AM
    #3
    bubba353z

    bubba353z Titles? We don't need no stinkin' titles.

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    You could try zinc washing / spray-on coating on them (check out Eastwood)- but hi temp paint is probably the easiest way to go. Just mask off the pad contact surface and paint away.

    If there is a Brembo rotor for your year, I'd go with them - I've had great results and they don't seem to rust over while you're at work for the day.
     
  4. Apr 23, 2014 at 10:35 AM
    #4
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  5. Apr 23, 2014 at 12:45 PM
    #5
    Silver02Taco

    Silver02Taco #DevilHornGang

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    Relentless Fab Front & Rear Bumpers and Skid Plates Bay Area Metal Fab Sliders, Rear Shock Relocation Kit & Bed Rack Total Chaos Fab UCA's, Shock Tower, Spindle & Cam-Tab Gussets ADS Ø2.5's w/Resi's on all four corners. Lots of other stuff...
    You could also check these guys out...

    http://brakeperformance.com/index.php?ad=impact.radius

    I got the slotted-only ones and kinda wish I'd gone for the cross-drilled and slotted ones. Excellent stopping power, but you can definitely tell when the slots in the rotors are passing thru the pads!! Freaked me out a bit at first, but I'm used to it now.

    FWIW
     
  6. Apr 23, 2014 at 12:48 PM
    #6
    Silver02Taco

    Silver02Taco #DevilHornGang

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  7. Apr 23, 2014 at 1:00 PM
    #7
    jeremy_283

    jeremy_283 Super Member

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  8. Apr 23, 2014 at 1:10 PM
    #8
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i do expect them to rust...eventually. but the ones i've used so far last like 3 months before they look like they just came from a junk yard
     
  9. Apr 23, 2014 at 1:59 PM
    #9
    Sloth

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    Stuff
    Drilled/slotted rotors do not improve stopping distance. They are designed to disperse heat/ gasses. They are completely unnecessary. And those flea bay rotors you linked to would likely rust just like your current ones.

    Cross drilling was originally used for older style solid rotors. Or front rotors are already vented and don't need this. And unless the holes/ slots were cast into the rotor and not added after the fact then I would stay away from them. You run the risk of stress concentrations and fracturing at edges of the holes, or between holes when they are added after casting.

    What I'm getting at is save your money. If you want some bling factor I guess get some, but you will be paying decent money for a set that was cast that way. Like was mentioned above, brembo blanks are probably your best bet. They are also not cheap, but are a much better investment than some useless drilled and slotted Chinese crap
     
  10. Apr 23, 2014 at 2:01 PM
    #10
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    I've heard the bad thing about rotors that are drilled is they can crack. The quality rotors are not drilled all the way through if you look closely. The ebc rotors are slotted and drilled but the holes don't fully penetrate through the rotor.

    Personally if I were you I would go with ebc. They are the best price for quality IMO.

    Frozen rotors also is a good brand but it's like 150 per rotor..
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
  11. Apr 23, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #11
    Sloth

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    The ebc rotors are dimpled not cross drilled. Similar to the slotting. again, none of this is needed on a Tacoma. Only situation it might be useful is heavy towing with a lot of braking. And then the only thing all that jazz does is help control heat. In normal driving conditions/ offroading this is not an issue. It's just shiny stuff they add to try to sell more rotors cause it looks neat.
     
  12. Apr 24, 2014 at 5:35 AM
    #12
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    my goal is def not the flashy look... i want something that will last and not rust (as quickly as most).

    i'm looking for something a little better than the auto store brands. and of course, having no experience with these, all i know is what i'm reading. so its great to have feedback from you guys. i really appreciate it
     
  13. Apr 24, 2014 at 6:55 AM
    #13
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    ^ very good info

    honestly you could always get a Toyota rotor from the stealership. I've had mine for 10 years and there's only surface on the edges. the mounting point (where the studs are) is only a little faded wore, no rust but you can tell it's stained from years of use.

    thoughts on factory ones Sloth?
     
  14. Apr 24, 2014 at 9:24 AM
    #14
    Sloth

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    Factory are good as well, likely comparable to Brembo blanks. The problem with the auto parts store ones is they are made with crappy metal.
     
  15. Apr 24, 2014 at 9:55 AM
    #15
    Mod

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    ,,,Add the fact that during a full brake rebuild, alot of shops wont turn the drilled/slotted stuff because it takes alot of time and they end up breaking several cutting bits in the process. They have to take very minute passes across the rotor,,as light as .002 per pass to get them fresh again. Many, many passes sometimes. Due to there busy shop, they might shop them out to a machine shop to get it done.
     
  16. Apr 24, 2014 at 10:09 AM
    #16
    Mod

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    Not trying to buzz kill your idea of the high performance stuff,,just things to be aware of.
     
  17. Apr 24, 2014 at 10:56 AM
    #17
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  18. Apr 24, 2014 at 12:23 PM
    #18
    cadman33619

    cadman33619 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    anybody know what the rotor size is for a 2004 prerunner 4 cyl 2wd?
     
  19. Apr 24, 2014 at 5:57 PM
    #19
    TacomaTRD4x402

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    My username says it all
    Icon 2.5 co w/ resi + CDC. TC UAAs. Deaver rear AAL w/ rear Bilstein 5100's. TRD Headers. AFE intake. Glassworks Unlimited 3" Front Flares...more to come
    I just got these in the mail today. Ordered them online for about $180 for the pair... Gonna give them a try w/ a set of hawk pads i bought from a fellow member on here.

    c1b9cbad-14fb-418f-9e01-205cebcf65b5_zps_c24780197db2275c9e319efbb977c6ae3489df73.jpg

    They're EBC's USR Slotted Rotors. I'll be removing my Crosdrilled/Slotted Rotors from iRotors. Have had those on there for several years, never had an issue with them at all. Once removed, I may just take em in to see if they can be resurfaced and maybe sell locally.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  20. Apr 24, 2014 at 6:09 PM
    #20
    TacomaTRD4x402

    TacomaTRD4x402 Well-Known Member

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    Icon 2.5 co w/ resi + CDC. TC UAAs. Deaver rear AAL w/ rear Bilstein 5100's. TRD Headers. AFE intake. Glassworks Unlimited 3" Front Flares...more to come
    That's the route I was going to take too but than I splurged a lil while buying my motive power bleeder and decided to buy those ebc's. I'm doing fronts and rears. I think I'll go to pep boys for the rear shoes and drums if needed.
     

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