Whiteline LCA bushings

Can't you slide the inner sleeve out?

 

Yep they come out

 

So just slide the inner sleeve out and send it! Seems like a pretty simple and effective mod to keep these bushings quiet.

 

Where did you find them for $265?

 

McGeorge Toyota, Toyota parts deal or San Diego Toyota.

any of the online places will usually have smokin deals.

 

Can anyone chime in on what the torque specs should be on the lower control arms? I've seen 100lb on 4wd and 155 on 2wd stock bushings.

But what do I torque my 4x4 with these bushings at?

 

RTFM?

The whiteline instructions say "Re-install lower control arms to the vehicle and tension all bolts to manufacturers specifications."

Check torque values here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

With the whiteline bushings, what are the washers for? The pictures show like 14 different washers, and I assume I'm supposed to use at least some of them?

And, what keeps the arm from sliding forward and backward on these bushings? Most other bushings have a flange at one or both ends (like a back-to-back "T" shape) which would bear axial loads. But the whitelines appear to be tubular on both ends, so do the arms slide forward and backward on them?

Here's the diagram from the instructions. The crude red arrows indicate the motion I'm confused about. And ... it looks like I use one washer per bushing, slipping it in place after I hammer the arms back into position?



I do not have the bushings to look at, trying to decide which ones to buy. I hate reusing sleeves so am drawn to the whitelines.

 

For the washers, they sandwich the bushing. There are extra ones, I'm not sure why. But 8 of them get used on our trucks.

The bushings are a TIGHT press into the LCA. It's not like poly bushings where you can just push them in by hand. I had to pay a shop to press them in. The metal on metal friction keeps the LCA from sliding fore and aft.

 

Thanks, that makes sense. So the polyurethane is bonded to the outer sleeve, like a rubber bushing?

If it works it works, but it seems like it would be a better design to have the outer bushing surface as the slip surface. That way the bushings themselves wouldn't be rotating with the arms.

I would go with ES, but it looks like they require re-use of the sleeves. I usually wind up destroying the sleeves trying to remove them. I have a harbor freight press and some subset of ball joint sleeves, hopefully I can manage to press in whatever I decide to buy, or at least hurt myself trying.

 

Yes, exactly. The "slip surface", assuming we're talking about the same thing, is the metal sleeve at the center of the bushing. Grease the outside of the sleeve and that rotates within the bushing.

 

Removed the oem bushings from the new oem LCA’s ready to have the white lines pressed in.

 

Installed the Whiteline bushings into the new OEM LCA’s today. Freezer method and a thin coat of anti seize made the install go smooth.

Will grease the outside of the internal bores and apply anti seize to the inside of the bores prior to assembly and install Monday.

will be installing in conjunction with poly performance Toyota LCA Cam Tabs (taco tabs)

 

I too just finished installing a set of whiteline bushings using a bottle jack and a ball joint service kit. Total PIA. I did however stumble upon a makeshift tool that hopefully makes the install easier for future TW folks…

Installing the first bushing with a bottle jackjack is pretty straight forward. However, installing the second bushing with a bottle jack gets a little more complicated due to the fact that the base of the bottle jack needs to be positioned against the LCA. Most of the ball joint adapters (I have a master set) are to tall to fit between the LCA pivots along with the bottle jack.

my solution- use an old fan belt pulley. The inside radius and offset are just enough to seat around the smaller whiteline bushing while making a solid, short base for the bottlejack to sit on. Worked like a champ.

 

Curious how this worked out for you, I'm considering doing the same since I am a major stickler on squeaks. Sounds like you did this after the bushings were pressed in? Do you have a pick of the access to the zerks when installed? Doing it on top makes the most sense for sure but I want to make sure there won't be anything in the way

 

It's been flawless. All poly bushing should be greasable. I believe I drilled and tapped the arm before the bushings went in, and then drilled through the bushings after, but I don't recall for sure, and either way would work just fine. No problem with access or clearance on top.

 

I did this to mine as well, haven’t had any issues since!

 

Decided to do a little extra while I had the LCAs off. Got the whitelines in and added the zerks, plus a 333 Cam eliminator kit and welded the tabs for a little extra insurance.

 

Old thread but good info. What kind of grease is supposed to be used with these? I use superlube but I havent seen it available is grease gun cartriges.

 

Definitely available in a cartridge
https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe-41150

That said I use Mobil XHP 222 for my JBA uppers. Lithium complex with 0.75% moly in it. Specifically recommended by JBA for that application, Id imagine this would be the same