Who's installed pop'n'lock through passenger side?

So I'll be doing this install this weekend and I'm curious if anyone can tell me the difference between the video and the picture. The other threads say that the video is backwards but it looks the exact same as this picture posted with it. As far as I can tell the blue wire for the lock runs off the green and the green wire runs to red. I am thinking that some people may have it backwards simply because the bullet connectors in the tail gate are reversed. I'm not a super technical guy so having my head all the way around this before I start is kinda important for me lol. Otherwise I'll likely do the install off the drivers door IC connector. The instructions are pretty clear about ports 9 and 10. Not a huge deal but I would prefer to piggy back off the passenger side just If anyone has done this and can clarify is really appreciate it. Thanks!

 

I installed the Pop & Lock through the passenger side and found it easy enough only taking about an hour to complete. I wired it in the cab per every video I could find which ultimately turned out to be incorrect, it doesn't really matter that much since you can just swap the blue and green wires at the solenoid itself which is what I did. I entered the cab through the A/C condensate drain grommet sealing it with 3M Body Sealant I will eventually protect the wiring under the truck with heat wrap which you'll notice the factory harness is protected with next to the catalytic converter and exhaust collector. You'll also find that Pop & Lock doesn't provide nearly enough tie-wraps

 

I did too.

 

Alright thanks guys. I figured that worst case scenario I did it wrong I could just reverse the bullet connectors on the solenoid. That sounds like the case. Can you guys confirm that the green and red wires in that harness are the ones I need? Seeing as how you've done this?

 

The main thing I would do with this kit is to take the squeeze type wiring connectors and deposit them in the bottom of the nearest trash can.
I worked at a motorcycle shop for over a dozen years. I can't tell you how many bikes came in with owner or rally-installed lights and accessories that used them and found they were the source of a problem. Better? Posi-lock(TM) connectors/taps with dielectric grease. Best? Good wiring stripper + soldered connection & marine grade heat shrink tubing.

 

Thank you! I have never heard of those before but they look mint! I f*ckin hate those other connectors but have never seen anything else. They have never worked well for me. I will definately pick some up. As well as some of that sheathing for wiring. I don't like running worrying underneath unprotected.

 

Not the best source for tools, but Harbor Freight stores actually carry some really good heat shrink tubing and at very reasonable prices.
It's even heavier than the Wurth brand we had at the bike shop.

 

I wired mine in through the passenger side drain plug/harness grommet like the video. I wired from back to front, covered it in loom, and rolled up some of the excess wire inside the tailgate. I tossed the Scotch clips and soldered the wires in the cab. Works fine.

I bought the one with BOLT technology so I wouldn't have to use an extra key.

http://www.popandlock.net/power-tailgate-lock/toyota-power/toyota-power-tacoma/PL8540

 

Yes, green and red. Reverse the wires at the solenoid if needed.