why do wheels get so darn stuck on rotors?

Anti seize and rubber mallet, Quit using that steel sledge! Kicking also works well but i have kicked until i was blue in the face before. Mallet worked well.

 

Are you getting rid of the rust after you take your wheel off? I've seen a couple of wheels on cars that are shit to get off.

 

What are you talking about? I am ASE master mechanic certified AND I have been doing precisely this with anti-seize for thirty years now. Once it is applied, the wheel never sticks again. Why shouldn't I put anti- seize on the hub between the wheel and hub? What harm comes from doing that? Besides keeping the wheel from bonding o the hub. Ever have to pound the drums with a BIG hammer to get them free from the axle flange? anti-seize cures that real good. You don't spread it on like frosting, you coat lightly.

 

this is what I do

keep it simple stupid (KISS)

 

do you have any pics of the rims, i am curious to see what they look like after beating on them with a mallet.

 

Why do you say that?

 

Geez...

Do Not use anti-seize on lug studs. Anti-Seize/PB Blaster is all friction modifiers. Do you really want to modify the torque that holds the lugs on?

Do use a little bit on hub faces or rotor faces. Even just a tiny dab on the tip of a finger and smooth it over the hub of the actual wheel/rim. I did a light coat of silicone lube just around the outer part of the hub. Wheels slide right off, to much actually for my true liking.

The wheel rusted/corroded to the hub. Pretty common really. Shouldn't have beat the rim, that will damage it, espeically the aluminum. Hit the tire.

 

I use the tire I'm putting on to smash the old one off. Works slick, no damage.

 

Just switch to a 3 or 5 pound rubber mallet when you need to get the wheel off and hit it from the inside, not outside. I have to do that every time I rotate the tires or do any work involving wheel removal.

Anti-seize works very well also, I'm just too lazy to grab my jar of it when I'm putting the wheel back on.

 

I have the same problem here in Chicago, and if you have a brake dragging the heat will even make the problem worse!!!

I have always used a wood 2x2 on the inside edge of the rims with light taps from a 5# sledge working my way around...that way the wood absorbs most of the impact and saves your rims.

 

Had a he of time getting a rim off today when I was doing a brake inspection in the garage. I had the crawl under and kick the crap out of the fire from the backside. I bet it took at least a dozen hard kicks.

 

http://www.greatnecktools.com/products/show/CBC2
We used to use these at a tire shop I worked at, brush the hub, the back of the wheel where it mates to the hub, and the inside bore of the wheel. Then lightly apply a little anti seize, should take care of your problem. I've had to kick some wheels several times to get em off... just the nature of corrosion. Sometimes we would even take a 4x4 piece of lumber to the back of the wheel to get it off...

Edit: Holy thread revival. lol

 

I know right. Haha

Perfect I already have that little tool. Thanks!