Will stock UCA's fit over King coilovers?

Or not?
Explain my apparent stupidity do I can avoid it in the future.

 

TC will be great they are some of the best out there

 

The UCA is actually very lightly loaded. (Due to its height, the UCA has a lot more leverage over the contact patch than the LCA.)

Larger uniballs have more friction. "Heavier" UCAs with 1.25" uniballs will give slightly worse steering feel compared to 1.0" uniballs used in the TC UCAs. 1.25" uniballs give greater uptravel if you are running aftermarket bumpstops - that's about the only benefit.

 

Oh ok thanks for clearing that up. From what I've seen TC's are among the most competitively priced as well so that's awesome.

 

There are a lot of interesting things going on in this thread. I'm gonna go ahead and say it, and I'm not trying to be rude, but you sound like you've sunk some serious money into parts already and done very little to no research at all. Not the best method. Here's a quick primer for you.

Regarding UCAs:

You WILL need UCAs to get a proper alignment if you lift above 2.5 inches. The balljoint in the stock UCAs binds if you go higher, which not only sets it up for damage, but also prevents you from getting a correct alignment. Aftermarket options relieve this problem by going to uniball joints with significantly more travel and strength.

Regarding "heavier duty than Total Chaos":

Good luck. MAYBE DSM, if only because of their square material design, and PROBABLY Icon's billet (not tubular) units because they are milled from billet metal. Everything else is welded tube of sufficient thickness to be way overkill for the application. In all likelihood, you're going to bend your spindle or trash your lower balljoint before you have any trouble out of the upper control arm.

Regarding front lifts over 3in:

Fins on the CV boots will wear if left in stock locations. This can be dealt with by unclamping the CV boots and stretching them out a bit, then re-clamping. The higher you lift, the more downtravel you lose. No way around this, although extended travel coilovers help some.

Regarding rear lifts:

Leaf packs give you the height they give you. They are not adjustable.

Regarding front suspension adjustment:

On most coilover brands, one thread = ~1/8in of lift. The correct way to do things is measure center of wheel hub to top of fender while still stock, and use that as a baseline to achieve the lift height you desire.

Be aware:

Lifting these trucks can cause all kinds of problems. Driveline vibrations. Increased bearing and bushing wear. Increased tire wear. Your gas mileage will go down. You may have to revise your suspension later if you add additional weight to the truck, like armor or winch.

You are starting down a long and slippery slope. Realize that.

 

get the camburg uca if you dont want tc

 

Thanks I appreciate your honesty and the fact that you provided good information rather than just leave it at pointing out that I didn't do enough research which I already know.

I have read about the driveline vibrations and some of the other problems that doing this lift probably will cause and while I was not prepared enough when I ordered the truck and the lift, I am just going to be patient with it and correct problems as the come up. So any advice and help is greatly appreciated.

 

I just put King coilovers on my truck with stock UACs and 285x70x17, of course they rub on the stock UAC...waiting for the next UAC group buy to upgrade.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/229659-king-coilover-height-adjustment.html

 

why not just get some spidertrax spacers on the front and fix the problem so you dont rub the tires any...

 

Ya I'm putting 285/75/16's on my truck so that's just another reason to get aftermarket UCA's.

Thanks for the link. The pictures were helpful.

 

Aftermarket UCAs won't cure rubbing with the tire. You need wheel spacers or wheels with less backspacing than stock (max 4.5" backspacing). Note this will increase rubbing at the fender flare at full steering lock, so you will have to trim the bottom of the plastic fender flare (where it wraps around the underside of the fender). Slippery slope as JAndrews calls it...