Will this setup meet my needs?

I've read a bunch of threads on the forums and used the search extensively to come up with the following proposed list of modifications. Now before I start writing checks, I'm coming to the wisdom of the board to verify that what I've put together makes sense all together as a package, and will meet my needs.

So naturally, I need to tell you how I wheel, and what my goals are:

MY TRUCK: It's a 2011 Tacoma Std Cab 5 speed 4 banger. It's a pretty willing little engine though, I've been impressed.

USAGE: - I wheel on "pretty rough" trails to gain access to remote camping locations, mostly in the California Sierras. Given a choice, I'll usually turn off the "major" forest service road onto the rougher two track, to see where it goes. But naturally, in places like Death Valley, I drive a fair amount on some fairly heavily used, and therefore, straight-but-bigtime-washboarded roads.

I drive through the snow to get to skiiing, but I live and work in San Jose where it doesn't snow.

And naturally, as it's a sweet new truck with only 600 miles on the clock, you already know it's also my daily driver.

My last truck, a 94 F150, had a minimum ground clearance on paper similar to the Tacoma of roughly 9" But that was just under the pumpkins. Everywhere else under the axles, was 10 or 11 inches, and I still got the odd bump. Stock Tacoma is 9" everywhere under the entire front end. So even though the approach, breakover, and departure angles are better, I want to gain a few inches of clearance.

GOALS

1. Stay streetable. This is my daily driver.
2. Get to 11 or 12" of trail clearance, with 10" under the rear diff.
3. Improve traction/durability a lot vs. the stock 245/75R16 streets.
4. Keep rake. I throw 400lbs of gear back there when I go camping. Also, an empty truck should sit higher in the back IMO. That's what looks "right" to me.
5. Reasonably "taut" ride. But don't ride like a brick. I'm in my 40s and I don't drive terribly fast, but if I have to drive slower than I'd drive the stocker on rough washboard, as a result of my "off road" suspension riding too rough, then something's whacked!
6. It's a new truck and I plan to be driving it for many years. I don't want my new suspension causing me big problems with premature component wear/failure. A little extra maintenance is OK. Replacing CV boots every 3 years is OK. Replacing CV boots every 6 months is NOT OK.
7. Buy the least expensive setup that meets my needs. I don't want to overbuild a desert racer.

So, with those goals in mind, I've put together the following list of components. Will they meet my goals? Will they work well together?

Code:

FRONT:
Description                 P/N             Price
Sway Away 2" Coilover       52000-108-20    749 MSRP, 799 @Wheelers (free shipping)
Camburg "Ball Joint" UCA    CAM-310039      399 MSRP, 379 @Wheelers
Revtek Front Diff Drop Kit  REV 

	

		

	
		
			
		
	
	

	
	

		$30 RTDD2-KB Differential Drop Spacer Kit
	
RTDD2-KB    24 @Wheelers
Limit Strap needed??

REAR:
Description                 P/N             Price
Wheelers 3 Leaf
  Progresive Add-A-Leaf     U6745           149 @ Wheelers
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks                   158 @ Wheelers
1" lift block                               ?
U Hangers                                   ?
Axle Shims                                  ?

WHEELS & TIRES
Description                                 Price
BFG AT TA KO 285/70R17                      1048 @ Tires.com
Mount & Balance                             60 @ Tires.com (all 4 wheels)
MHT Fuel 17x8.5 wheels 4.5 backspacing      720
Mounting Nuts with Locking                  45 @ Tires.com

Overall, is this a good match of components to the way I use my truck?

Do I need brake line extensions and/or limit strap in the front? rear?

Will the SAWs in the front work fine with 5100s in the rear? Saws for the rear are 500 bucks a pair.

Will the SAWs work with the Camburg UCAs? Camburg only makes a 2.5" coilover, and the SAW 2" seemed more suited to my needs.