Wiring assistance.

I'm not actually running wire yet - I'm attempting to find the information that I need in order to complete the work once I get the unit rather than wait until I get it, then try to find what I need.

 

Then yeah, if all you're doing is running the trigger wire through then you'll be fine. Use that wire I recommended. It's hard to miss once you get the kick panel off.

 

I just installed the

$323 CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation

CKMA12 2 weeks ago. It comes with the harness. One of the strands is a positive and negative terminal connection. The other you run in through your firewall which it tells you in the documentation to tap the fuse box inside. I 100% can guarantee this as I JUST did it. You tap 2 fuses. One for the ignition, and one for the illumination. There is no wire splicing involved.

 

if you are so able to refute and refuse recommendations that will work (ARB)

then I would expect you have the proper electrical diagnostic equipment to
be able to sniff out and find your own tap source, no wiring diagram needed

but that is just me

 

I don't plan on splicing wires, just tapping them.

Also, ARB says this for the

$584 CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

CKMTA12:



I already found what dash illumination wire to tap into, was just looking for an accessory wire.

 

Sure, wrapping wire around a fuse will work. It's still a dumb idea.

I would have to purchase a test light. I figured hey someone on here has probably already done this so I'll ask.

 

Tapping a wire is not the proper or clean way of doing wiring

 

There isn't much other way unless I was going to solder them, which in such a tight space I don't want to do. I've used wire taps for a long time and have had zero issues. If you do them correctly, there should be no problem.

Wrapping wire around a fuse on the other hand....

 

A fuse tap is much safer than pinching and cutting the insulation of a wire to get power.

Do you understand how a fuse tap actually works, it isn't a wire wrapped around the fuse.

 

Yes, I understand how it works, but I don't like them because they block access to other fuses and then will the fuse panel still close properly without notching? Wrapping wire around the fuse was what someone else here mentioned.

 

Hi OP.
While there may be an aux wire connection that is just waiting for you to connect to, unfortunately there aren't any that I'm aware of on the 2nd gen. (Yes I know you have a 3rd gen, I don't. ) Most of us add a fuse block in the engine compartment to run our accessories and power extra relay blocks.

In order to get ignition switch aux power to trip your relays, by far the easiest is with a fuse tap. These are safe and are used universally by lots of manufacturers. I much prefer it to splicing or using a 3m tap into a wire and disturbing the insulation.
It's also as easy to reverse as the suggested (wire wrap on a fuse blade), which I agree is hokey at best, and possibly dangerous with out an inline fuse. With this style tap you retain the fused circuit, adding your own fused circuit output. It looks clean as well.

Some good candidates for this could be the radio or cig fuses.

 

No they don't.

Yes it will. Like I said above. I JUST did this 2 weeks ago and it looks and works perfectly fine.

 

The link you posted even shows it blocking other fuses.

 

Well, in full disclosure, yes they can depending upon the style that you get.

OP you mentioned you want to "tap" the wire, not splice it. I know of two methods, stripping back a section of wire and soldering to it, and using a 3M snap tap. I have used 1000's of the later throughout my career and I just can't recommend them anymore. I've seen issues with arcing internally when too many conductors are sheared, usually when trying to tap thicker gauge wire than it's designed for.
While there isn't anything wrong with the wire stripping practice, getting it insulated can be tricky since you can't get heatshrink on the tap and tape , well is tape. Afterwards it's impossible to "return to stock" since the wire is already compromised.

This is the 3m tap I speak of. There are also spade socket styles.

 

I would add a fuse block, but the compressor can pull up to 50A so that is beyond the capabilities of the Bussman or Blue Sea which I would typically use. So it will get run direct to the battery because of that. So there is no need for me to run an extra fuse block at this time. In the future when I add lights and such, yes that is what I will do. But having that low power accessory line then will still be important so that I can kick off relays and have the accessories pull from the new fuse block.

I have a Blue Sea in my Xterra to run all of my stuff - except my winch. The winch pulls too much and I needed an ANL fuse.

 

I didn't post a link. Even if it blocks a fuse it's not like you're accessing those fuses on a daily basis. You're making mountains of mole hills over this.

 

I would use a posi tap, not the t-tap.

 

Go away, OK?... We've tried to help you, now go and do what you want..!!

 

The other issue is that the switch that I want to use is rated at 3A. They are asking for a minimum of 8A fused. I'm currently pondering that one, why they would need that much just for a switch, but unfortunately there isn't enough about the compressor in their install doc.

 

I asked a very specific question, and all I get is answers to do something else. Not very helpful. How about you go away?