wiring opinions

I'm fairly new to efi tunning I've tuned 3 so far but enrichment graphs for cold idle and acceleration enrichment and some data logging still give me issues

 

I know this is irrelevant but I bought a 13 veloster as a dd and having problems so I posted to find out if it was common so some d bag finds my old cardomain from my ricer days and start burning me on the forum so I tried to get them to run my truck but they won't I hate import car forums Tacoma world is by far the nicest and most knowledgeable thank you guys for your responses

 

We use similar solder sleeves in aviation...

You need a heat gun to really use them properly, and a tip that can help concentrate the heat.

We do not use them to splice wires together though, only to seal or attach a ground lead/wire to the outer braid of shielded wires.

We do have a crimp style splices that have a separate outer sleeve you slide on and shrink down like those solder types. More secure than the cheap crimp slices you usually see at auto stores, and they are waterproof. Thing is, they cost like $1 per splice. (Tyco Raychem Environmental Splices)

If you use solder splices like that, I would hand solder first then just use the shrink sleeve part. The solder inside is not really enough for a good connection.

 

+1 what marine6680 mentions.

The Raychem butt splices, with the shrinkable over jackets are good. There is a gell in the jacket that floods the joint for environmental protection. The crimper for the barrel that crimps on the wires is about $300. We use them on marine installations.
The outer jacket needs about 550 deg to shrink. If you go too hot, you will char the conductor insulation. So a heat controlled gun with a fine point nozzle is pretty much required to keep the heat isolated. Eg Stienel digital gun, about $300.
The tools for that work are crazy$ for the home guy.
The solder ring heat shrink tubes don't have much physical strength, and the solder quality is not consistent. As he mentions, we also use them to add a drain wire to shielded fine gauge wire pairs. I'd never consider them to make a connection between load carrying conductors.

Nothing beats a good physical joint, soldered, and heat shrink.

Don't forget the wire loom to cover the wire bundles.

 

Just a thought, but have you considered going to a salvage yard and buying the entire harness that you are needing? Some salvage yards are pretty reasonable with that kind of thing. Just a thought.

 

I work in a body shop. Its a 12 civic they came in the kit honda sent but the shop stocks them too. The harness is 1400 $ or 12 $ for the (pig tail and connector kit) . I've just never used them I've always crimped then soldered and water proof heat shrink and tape.

 

Using just the shrink part would allow an easy waterproofing. Problem is, that the wire used in cars is usually cheaper rubber insulated, and it melts before the shrink sleeve can fully shrink and seal.

 

how are you guys shrinking crimps