Wishbone Runner's Build

Nice work on the lowers James. I've been wondering about solid mounting the lowers but I didn't understand how to do it until now.

 

Thanks Ray, hopefully it works out for me. Not too difficult to make the tabs, but still need to align it.

 

I was wondering too Ray about the whole concept of "solid mounting" something that was supposed to pivot.

Now I see that it's just fixing the cam bolt adjustment in place.

 

Yeah it's kind of a cool concept. It did plant a seed in my head for a future project.

 

Haha, that might reduce the travel a little bit.

 

Got everything buttoned up and took it in for an alignment check, came out pretty well for just setting it where I thought it would get the caster high enough. This was with the rear tab maxed to the outside, and the front tab halfway between center and full inside. I made all of the tabs damn near identical, so the fact that they are different side to side makes me think something is a bit tweaked somewhere.

@SconnieHailer any recommendations for adjustments to the heims to get this dialed? Passenger maybe just one thread out on both, then driver one thread in on the front and two or three threads in on the rear?

 

Depends on where you want your caster. If you want the 4° on the passenger side, move the rear heim out and front heim in on the passenger arm. Do it the other way on the drivers side if you want lower caster on that arm.

 

I think you have that backwards, making the rear heim longer will decrease the caster, by pushing the top of the spindle to the front, right? I think I like the passenger caster where it is, just wanted to get the camber closer to zero, then get the driver caster down a bit and camber to zero. My question was really how many threads to achieve this with pulling the UCA as few times as possible.

 

Yep, I do. Went full tard there. I like to shoot for around 3° with a slight lead for road crown and close to 0° camber. 4° seems to increase steering effort.

 

OK, that's what I thought. 3° caster is what I was shooting for. What do you mean slight lead?

 

Your vehicle will drift/pull to the side with the most negative caster, I typically lead about 25 minutes or a half a degree to help with road crown. I like a slight drift to the right from road crown, just not a pull.

 

OK, so like I have it now with the driver higher than passenger, but not as extreme?

 

I would go for about 2.9-3.0 on driver. Leave the passenger

 

Are we going to get some fishing in this summer?

 

For sure! I want to get up to the snowy range to do some camping, maybe backpacking, and fishing. When do those lakes usually thaw?

 

Probably mid June. I go pretty frequently so ill let you know when they can be fished

 

Hey James, been busy this week. Finally had time to sit down and look at your numbers. I read somewhere that 1/4" of threads was equal to half a degree of caster I think, but i'm not positive on that. Get the caster set and then do camber. When you do camber make sure you adjust BOTH hiems the same turns in or out on the same arm to avoid changing the caster you just set ( which is probably obvious to you but i had to mention it). I dont run anything for road crown and i have no issues with pulling. Just try to even it out caster wise on both sides since it's not gonna matter imo, and i drive alot of highway miles...

Nah nothing is tweaked man it's just that way from side to side and truck to truck. My two arms are adjusted way different on both sides to get even numbers between them. May be tweaked a bit but it's just what happens when we twist these yotes over rocks. Also when you think about the small 1/4 inch adjustment making a half a degree alignment difference, it's not crazy to believe its that much different from side to side in frame difference.

If you have a digital angle finder, use it on your brake rotor with the tire off while your making adjustments and get a reading where your at now and then pull the arm, make an adjustment and then bolt the arm back up and see what it changed with the angle finder still on the rotor. Just make sure the rotor isnt loose. that's how i did mine without pulling everything apart too many times. Ask dustin at dirt king about the .25" thread per degree of caster too they were the ones who told me about it.

 

Thanks Marc, made a few adjustments today, went with what I said above, and will get it checked again early next week to see where I ended up.

 

Sounds good. It's lots of work but worth it once u get it dialed

 

Front end fully assembled and dialed in. The King resi mounts wouldn't work with the UCA gussets, so I welded a resi mount to the gusset. It was a pretty big PTIA trying to get them just right so the resi would go in, not rub the UCA and not rub the tire, but it worked out in the end. The hose is SUPER close to the UCA, I had to zip tie it to the bucket as close as possible with only a RCH to spare. Once it gets some dirt on it, there is going to be some rubbing, but not sure what else to do other than a new hose configuration. Replaced the resi stickers as well, didn't ahve any blue ones that fit so went with some black ones I had, not sure I love the look but they will do for now.

New 8" straps as well, the adjustment on the clevis is maxed out and they are preventing any binding, but by moving them closer to the pivot there is much greater force on them and they stretched more than I was expecting, so if they go any further 7" straps may be needed.