Wishbone Runner's Build

Got some arms off of rock auto for $100 apiece. Will get oem bushings for old arms and have them as spares for now.

Would get better arms but I'm gonna start on the Lexus soon

 

@thefatkid

Brian, a few maintenance questions for you.

1. AC, what is the best (or easiest/cheapest) method to check and recharge the AC if needed? Would you trust Goodyear/Firestone type places to do it if not a DIY?

2. Brake bleed - Can't get a solid pedal feel when bleeding, any tips? I follow the FSM without the MC part, but have been going rear to front, what works best? Using Speed Bleeders.

If the brake master cylinder is disassembled, if the brake line is disconnected from the brake master cylinder
if the reservoir become empty, bleed brake master cylinder.
(a) Turn the ignition switch to OFF, depress the brake pedal more than 40 times.
HINT:
When a pressure in power supply system is released, reaction force becomes light and stroke becomes longer.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to ON, check that the pump stops after approx. 30 to 40 sec.
NOTICE:
When the pump does not stop, repeat step (a) and (b) again.
(c) With the ignition switch remained ON, depress the brake pedal more than 20 times.
(d) Follow the procedure in step 4 and bleed the right and left front brake caliper.
(e) Keep depressing the brake pedal, bleed the right and left rear brake caliper.

4. BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(b) Ignition key is turn to ON.
(c) Depress the brake pedal several times, and then loosen
the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(d) At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the
bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
(e) Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled
out.
(f) Repeat the above procedure to bleed the brake line for
each wheel.

 

Anyplace should be able to do an evacuation and recharge. If they can't, never go there again.

I have never done a conventional brake bleeding on this generation of 4runner. I usually follow the scan tool process.

 

Thanks, but that isn't what I wanted to hear about the brakes! I'll try another round and see if they get any better then maybe bring it to you.

 

I know "how" to bleed them, just not getting a good bleed and looking for any tips. From what I have read, I may need to take more time on all of the pumping prior to bleeding to get the system primed for the bleed.

 

I have, that is what got me into this, replaced a caliper and installed SS lines in the front, already had them in the rear. Afterwards haven't been able to get a good pedal feel. I think the MC is fine, 99% sure I never got it too low, just thinking it has something to do with the accumulator and getting it properly prepped prior to bleeding, will report back once I have another go at it.

 

A few of my favorites after a quick once through of the pics from this springs outing to Chinaman so far.

 

I like this one and guess who took the pic.

 

Yes, but did you cut a bullet in half with a chainsaw?

 

Too bad Eric is in it.

 

Bet you couldn't do it again if you tried!!

 

Ya that does suck. But either way it is still a good pic. Just cut him out of it.

 

I got a cool app on my phone for fixing up pictures and making them look A LOT better.

 

Ouch.

 

pre-RT16 Maze trip pics:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...apy-photo-thread.435603/page-16#post-12754168

 

Congrats James!

 

Thanks Ray!

And a few pics.

 

Been a while since an update . . .

Bought some Air On Board switches to replace the janky OTRATTW ones that I had for my lights as well as the ARB ones. I bought the compressor, and F and R locker ones first and installed those by the wheel, then ordered a set for front and rear lights. Not quite plug and play like the OTRATTW ones, I had to use the harness that comes with them and attach spades to connect to the ARB harness, but came out quite clean.



I then put the lighting ones down by the console.



After checking the back lighting at night I noticed that both of the lighting ones were not as bright as the comp and lockers, so I swapped the bodies to verify.





Don't know if it is a bad batch or what, but I will be contacting AOB to see what the deal is.

 

My headlights were leaking so I ripped them apart to reseal with some Morimoto buytl that worked quite well. While they were apart removed the amber reflector and painted them the same color as the rest of my armor, came out quite well i think.

 

Finally, my washer reservoir that I bastardized after moving it from the stock location started leaking, it was kind of a janky install to begin with and just wedged in between the PS reservoir and headlight, which made accessing either a PITA, so I ripped it out and installed an ebay special, using the stock pump wiring and mating it to the new one's pump, I had hoped that the stock pump would fit but the hole in the reservoir was too small. So, I now have washer fluid again, yay.

From this:



To this:



Much smaller, but it fits nicely and is bolted through the fender body and secured with a big ass zip tie.