1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

(Write-Up) Tool Box Mounting Using J-Hooks

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jking3002, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. Apr 24, 2011 at 6:40 PM
    #1
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    Back Story- Went to Lowes to pick-up a slim low-profile Kobalt toolbox on Friday. The only one they had in stock didn't have the keys (it was a return). Needless to say I was pretty bummed. After trips to Home Depot, Sears, and Tractor Supply, I still didn't have a box that would fit my truck. I went back to Lowes on a whim, and someone had returned the non-slim version of the same box in the few hours I had left. It had the keys (but didn't have the foam pads), and I got a $50 discount! I think I'll be happier with the non-slim version anyway to be honest.

    I’ve been wanting to do my first write-up (so be gentle) for a long time. I spent about two hours reading about how to mount the toolbox with j-hooks on TW before it was clear to me how it would work. Wanted to save someone else the time. Sorry about the crappy cellphone pics!



    Step 0- Tools needed- I used the following- Cordless Drill with 3/8 inch bit, Adjustable Wrench (would be much easier with an open-end wrench), ¼ x 4 inch J-Hooks with nuts, tape measurer, and pen (sharpie would work much better). Not Pictured items used in steps 8/9- Washers, 3/8 x 5 inch J-Hooks. You may also want to use some foam or rubber padding between the box and the truck. Place this before doing ANY OF THE OTHER STEPS!


    [​IMG]


    Step 1- Place Box onto truck bed as close to the cab as possible, and even with regards to its horizontal alignment. Mine looked about like this on each side-


    [​IMG]


    Step 2- Find j-hook points for mounting below the rail system. They look like this-


    [​IMG]


    Step 3- Mark how far the box extends from the end of the cab (box width) on the rail system-


    [​IMG]


    Step 4- Measure the distance from the end of the box (now marked on the rails) to the middle of the j-hook point you intend to use. You will probably have to move the toolbox out of the way to do this. This is the horizontal measurement for the hole you will be drilling. My measurement was 4 inches-


    [​IMG]


    Step 5- Reposition the toolbox exactly as before if you moved it in the last step. Now, mark the box at the point the bottom rail would hit the box if it were to extend all the way to the box (I marked right above where I am holding the tape measurer). Next measure from the top of the box (while its open) to this line (not pictured). This is your vertical measurement for your hole. Mine was 3 and ¾ inches.


    [​IMG]


    Step 6- Open the toolbox and using your measurements identify where you will need to drill your hole. Mark that spot. Due to the thickness of the box and the j-hook (which my measurements did not take into account), you will probably want to drill your hole on the upper left corner of your marked spot. Drill a hole using your 3/8 drill bit (not pictured).


    [​IMG]


    Step 7- Run hooks through j-hook points (hook part facing down) and then into your freshly drilled holes. Should look like this-[​IMG]


    Step 8- Bolt down the J-hook to the box. When you do this, hand tighten each side, and then go back and wrench down each side. If you don’t do it this way, you will end up pulling the box to one side as you wrench it down. This is what each side should look like after you are finished -

    [​IMG]

    Step 9- For added vertical stability! (Thanks buddywh1 for the help!) Mount j-hooks into box vertically and secure into j-hook point closest to the cab. Tighten down. You may have to drill for this step if your box doesn't have slots like the Kobalt boxes.

    [​IMG]





    Here is the final result-
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Feel free to ask any questions, and give me pointers on the write-up!
     
  2. Apr 24, 2011 at 6:46 PM
    #2
    jamescordrey

    jamescordrey New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2011
    Member:
    #55482
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Great write-up OP...simple enough even a caveman could do it! :)
     
  3. Apr 24, 2011 at 9:26 PM
    #3
    Tacomatrd2010

    Tacomatrd2010 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2011
    Member:
    #54361
    Messages:
    138
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jimmy
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Sport 4wd
    ARB bull bar,wheather tech mats,trail fx low pro toolbox,dynomax super turbo muffler,
    dose ur box stay real secure like that , the way its mounted?
     
  4. Apr 25, 2011 at 4:47 AM
    #4
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    Secure enough that it isn't going to get stolen and/or slide around/fly off the truck when driving. If you put a lot of force on it it will "wiggle" a half centimeter or so in each direction.

    The more you tighten down the nuts, the more secure it will be. Also, I only am using two j-hooks right now. Using 4 would make it more secure.
     
  5. Apr 25, 2011 at 5:09 AM
    #5
    SilverTacoZack

    SilverTacoZack Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Member:
    #42788
    Messages:
    567
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zack
    Elgin, SC
    Vehicle:
    2011 FJ trail teams
    Nice mount. That looks to be another good way to do it. When I mounted mine, I simply sacrificed two of the factory bed cleats. I just dremmeled off half the rounded plastic, then put them underneath where the mounting holes for the box are. The two holes in the bed cleats line up perfectly with the box! So then it was just a few bolts/washers from lowes, and mine is super secure.
     
  6. Apr 25, 2011 at 5:24 AM
    #6
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2010
    Member:
    #35825
    Messages:
    1,453
    Gender:
    Male
    Philly PA
    Vehicle:
    07 DC SR5 4x4
    I'd be concerned that wiggling will turn out to be a problem as years of vibration and movement wears at the plastic edging on the bed. Also, can't see putting 4 J-hooks would help much since even two could probably pull the rails off if tightened enough; and the tool box will still slide forward and back that 1/2 cm or so. Finally, going over a bump at speed that box will fly up about 1/2" or so since there's nothing holding it down! Relative movement of parts is always your enemy!

    I'd prefer to go down from the top surface of the inner 'floor' wall of the box, using the J hooks to pull up on the bottom of the rail and 'squeezing' on the bed edge. Put a friction pad (some kind of moderate-durometer rubber sheeting, maybe 1/4" thick) between the tool box and the bed rails to squeeze on and it won't go anywhere even if you use only moderate torque on the bolts.

    I hope this works out for ya, but I'd definitely do it different! The good thing is: the two hooks you put in do a good job of locating the box against left-right movement, so use the other two hooks as I described above and you'll be good to go. Don't forget the friction pad to control front to back movement.
     
  7. Apr 25, 2011 at 7:29 AM
    #7
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    I know exactly what you mean! Here are my ideas to combat these problems-

    I'm not worried too much about friction. However, I could see it being an issue after years of movement. I will be adding some type of friction control later (rubber/carpet/foam), and may add it to the write-up. Any ideas on how to secure it? Maybe secure it to the BOX via 3M tape? I do not want to do anything to the truck that isn't reversible.

    Vertical (Y-axis) Movement Control- The only part of the box that moves right now on bumps is the part nearest the cab, as there are no j-hooks installed there. It is only moving on very hard bumps and is moving 1/2 CM or less. Adding two more hooks in the manner I describe in the write-up should stop this. The reason is the same as the reason that the front part of the box isn't currently moving vertically over bumps. If you are pulling something strongly in one direction(which the j-hooks are doing by pulling both ends of the box towards the center of the box) it is pretty hard to move it in another direction. It takes much more force then a speed bump would cause. I am not AT ALL concerned about torquing down the j-hooks enough to rip the bed rail down. It is riveted into the bed at multiple points via metal rivets. It would take probably a few hundred pounds of pressure to do this. Much more than I can hand torque anyway! Your way of using the j-hooks would work to control vertical movement probably better though.

    Z-axis Movement Control- For daily driving I snug my cleats against the box to prevent movement forward and backward (although even without them you'd have to have something putting a good amount of pressure on the box to cause that movement and it would at max be 1 cm in each direction). If I need the cleats, they are still there, can be moved, and the box will stay secure enough without them to use them for whatever trip I need them on. You're right though, adding friction control *SHOULD* negate any damage that could be caused by this.
     
  8. Apr 25, 2011 at 12:03 PM
    #8
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2010
    Member:
    #35825
    Messages:
    1,453
    Gender:
    Male
    Philly PA
    Vehicle:
    07 DC SR5 4x4
    Just cut a pad out of rubber sheet the same size/shape as the area of the bed rail covered by the tool box and use the second 2 j-hooks as described. Don't worry about adhesive... the new j-hooks should hold the tool box down tight against the rubber pads and they won't go anywhere.

    Hook the j-hook under the top lip of the cargo rail. No drilling or mods of the truck will be necessary!

    In 10 years when you take off the old box you'll have nice black, unmarred bed rail that was protected by the pads. But it will look strange next to the beat up, weathered uncovered parts ;).
     
  9. Apr 25, 2011 at 2:30 PM
    #9
    uood8

    uood8 If You Search...You Shall Find.

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2009
    Member:
    #18086
    Messages:
    1,287
    Gender:
    Male
    Greensboro, NC
    Vehicle:
    '14 4x4 OFFROAD DC
    AFE Intake, URD MAF Calibrator
    The box should have came with foam adhesive pads to protect the bed....i have the same box and mine were included.
     
  10. Apr 25, 2011 at 3:08 PM
    #10
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    ^ Bought it opened for 50 bucks less than new. :D Also, pics coming to write-up showing how to ensure vertical stability without any drilling. Thanks for all the help guys! I've never done anything like this before so I'm learning.
     
  11. May 18, 2011 at 9:39 AM
    #11
    Tacomatrd2010

    Tacomatrd2010 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2011
    Member:
    #54361
    Messages:
    138
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jimmy
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Sport 4wd
    ARB bull bar,wheather tech mats,trail fx low pro toolbox,dynomax super turbo muffler,
    hey man u did a better job than me, i got in a hurry and drilled my holes way off.. no one can see it but.. sucks anyway...[​IMG]
     
  12. May 18, 2011 at 3:10 PM
    #12
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    ^ That box looks awesome. What is it?
     
  13. May 18, 2011 at 3:54 PM
    #13
    fau8823

    fau8823 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2010
    Member:
    #32771
    Messages:
    271
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tacoma Sport 4x4
    Tint-20%, Kenwood 2 meter radio, firestik 2 meter antenna on a BAMF tailgate mount, Extang Solid Fold , Pioneer bhs-3500 HU, clazzio leather seats, Scangauge II
    Great write up! I did mine a little different. I found 4 J hooks, that are bent at about a 45 degree angle away from the bottom of the "J". I put the toolbox in the truck bed, hooked the hooks into the bedrail tracks through the slots inside the toolbox, and secured it tight with nuts and washers. One J hook setup per slot. I've had it a week and it won't budge AT ALL.

    After the pain in the a** to find those j hooks, I came home to see a kit on Better Built's website specifically for our trucks. Ugh. Still saved a few bucks doing it my way though. lol.
     
  14. May 19, 2011 at 10:40 AM
    #14
    Tacomatrd2010

    Tacomatrd2010 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2011
    Member:
    #54361
    Messages:
    138
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jimmy
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2010 TRD Sport 4wd
    ARB bull bar,wheather tech mats,trail fx low pro toolbox,dynomax super turbo muffler,
    its a trail fx... i went to order a uws at a local truck shop and this is what i got, guy said its a 110% the same box as uws but with a different sticker on it...?
     
  15. May 21, 2011 at 4:39 AM
    #15
    jking3002

    jking3002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Member:
    #37187
    Messages:
    198
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    Scion tC
    Ricer muffler, window tent, trd shift knob.
    I see. Well I don't know if it's made in the same factory or anything, but it could be the same size/quality I'm sure. It looks good, and as long as you're happy with it, good on ya.
     
  16. May 22, 2011 at 10:20 PM
    #16
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged Goods

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2009
    Member:
    #22686
    Messages:
    2,714
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andy
    Crescenta Valley
    Vehicle:
    '11 4X4 DCLB SR5 2.5 gen
    Extended front 2.5 Icons at 2". LR UCAs Dakar Leaf Springs, rear King Smooth 2.5 w/res , Softopper, 285/75-16 Mickey Thompson Baja MT,16x8 SCS wheels 4.5 bs, Brute Force Rear bumper, 4x4 switch led, Diff Breather mod, weathertechs, Pelfrybuilt front bumper, IFS and mid skids, B.A.M.F rear diff armor, LCA armor, Light bar mount and Sliders, Homer grill, Andres Devil horns, LED light bar, gauge pod with temp and ecometer.
    Nice Job on the how to. I used the rail in the back of the bed and cut rectangles of aluminium and drilled holes and slid carrige bolts into them (you have to square the holes). They slide into the cleat rails and you can drill holes in the back of the box for them to fit into. holds it nice and tight to the back of the bed.

    IMG00038-20110524-1622.jpg
    IMG00040-20110524-1623.jpg
    IMG00037-20110524-1616.jpg
    IMG00043-20110524-1632.jpg
     
  17. Mar 20, 2012 at 4:43 PM
    #17
    USAONE

    USAONE Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2010
    Member:
    #44876
    Messages:
    82
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2011 DC Tacoma Prerunner SR5
    Stock
    With two J hooks only it had some play but with one at front and one near back on each side it is very secure. Hopefully the rail will hold out.
     
  18. Aug 31, 2012 at 12:31 PM
    #18
    J Gibson

    J Gibson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2012
    Member:
    #78108
    Messages:
    262
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    J
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    '12 DblCab,4wd,TRD Sport, tow pkg, mgntc grey
    katzkin leather, chrome toyota step bars, chrome sr5 grill, advent overhead DVD player, cargo extender, bed mat, husky liners, impulse digital brake controller, avs bugflectorII, tinted windows, Firestone ride-rite air bags, UWS slimline aluminum toolbox, ScangaugeII, ProEFX tow mirrors, ImMrYo rearview mirror lift bracket, Salex glove box and console organizers, Tundra / Sequoia wheels, 265/70 r17 Michelin MS2 tires, LED map lights.
  19. Apr 4, 2013 at 6:42 PM
    #19
    gtonic

    gtonic Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96247
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Terry
    MS Gulf Coast
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prerunner SR5
    Short antenna
    These don't work well with the UWS box. Interference with a lip inside the box, no room for washers and the bolts are at a slight angle. When I get some free time I'm ditching these and using the supplied J-hooks. After I patch the big ol' holes I drilled for these contraptions.
     
  20. May 21, 2013 at 12:08 AM
    #20
    wirehawk35

    wirehawk35 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2013
    Member:
    #104601
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Pat
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2013 4 prerunner
    Nerf rails
    I'm looking to get tool box for my double cab and thank those who have posted before.If you guys ever get a chance to buy a box with no keys such as was mentioned please keep in mind a locksmith can make a set of keys for under $20.00 usually if you can get it to their shop. Remember to beat them up on the price of the box first. I'm a locksmith and we do this all the time for our customers
     
To Top