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WTF-Need help, gear oil/Diff fluid Questions

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DblCabMN, May 11, 2011.

  1. May 11, 2011 at 6:58 PM
    #1
    DblCabMN

    DblCabMN [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mpls, Minnesota
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    03 DC TRD/LTD
    Bilstein 5100's all around - Toytec/Eibach 112-620 Coils, Wheelers 5-Pack+Wheelers 2"AAL. 33x10.5x15 KM2s - Siped on Summit Racing 84-5883 rims with 3.750 BS. 4.88s. Demello HD round sliders. Home built full skids. Home built front bumper. Plasti'd badges. Energy Susp. steering rack bushings. Sway bar delete. Deck plate mod. aFe Pro-Dry. Gibson exhaust.
    Alright.

    I have searched the googles and the TW.

    Can. Not. Get. A. Clear. Answer.

    Due to me being cheap and pumped to do a rear and front diff fluid swap in my '03 Taco Dc 4x4 - Limited/TRD with Diff Lock. i saved $30 by buying the O'Reilly "Master Pro" 75w-90 Full Synthetic as opposed to the Lucas 75w-90/Mobil1 full syn 75w-90

    What the heck is the difference. Will i mutilate my diff's if i use the Master Pro Vs. Lucas/Mobil1 AHHHHHHH!!! I need TW.com guidance.

    Part of me wants to run the GL-5 Master Pro 75W-90 for about 20k miles as a 'crossover' from pure dino 80w-90 to syn 75w-90 and swap to maybe Mobil1 at the 20k mark... but idk. Again. Been reading too many generalities @ bob is the oil guy. Crazy confused. Heard there are additives in the Lucas that i may not want.

    Haven't done anything yet 'cept buy the stuff, so i can always return...

    Please help.
     
  2. May 11, 2011 at 7:01 PM
    #2
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    You'll be fine. The diffs aren't very picky on the type of fluid you put in.
     
  3. May 11, 2011 at 7:06 PM
    #3
    Yjryder

    Yjryder Member

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    I've had experiences on axles before when switching to synthetic it made the seals shrink and cause leaking.
     
  4. May 11, 2011 at 7:07 PM
    #4
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    I switched to synth at 156k miles, Im at 170k now with no problems.
     
  5. May 11, 2011 at 7:27 PM
    #5
    DblCabMN

    DblCabMN [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Member:
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    Messages:
    693
    Gender:
    Male
    Mpls, Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    03 DC TRD/LTD
    Bilstein 5100's all around - Toytec/Eibach 112-620 Coils, Wheelers 5-Pack+Wheelers 2"AAL. 33x10.5x15 KM2s - Siped on Summit Racing 84-5883 rims with 3.750 BS. 4.88s. Demello HD round sliders. Home built full skids. Home built front bumper. Plasti'd badges. Energy Susp. steering rack bushings. Sway bar delete. Deck plate mod. aFe Pro-Dry. Gibson exhaust.
    And this is why i hate the Internet :D

    Edit* Fyi: this is the stuff i bought: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MP03/80054.oap?keyword=75w-90
     
  6. May 11, 2011 at 7:44 PM
    #6
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
  7. May 11, 2011 at 7:52 PM
    #7
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

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    Oregon
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    1995.5 2.7l reg cab 4x4 5-speed red pearl
    Alcan stock height 4-leaf springs, greaseable main eye bolts, OME greaseable shackles, all energy suspension bushings, 2-row extra deep radiator, KYB gas-a-just shocks. ALL LED exterior and interior lighting including custom tail lights and blinkers.
    Don't worry about it. However, some synthetic gear oils actually perform better than others. If you go to bobistheoilguy.com, you can read performace data on the different synthetic gear oils. If I remember correctly, Mobil 1 actually performs poorly.

    DON'T USE Lucas in your gear oil! It creates a froth and can damage your differential over time. You also need the EP lubricant of the gear oil.

    The synthetics flow very well. I like Redline and Amsoil myself. As for weights, anything as thick, or thicker, generally works. It depends on what you use the truck for. A thicker oil can cause more friction and decrease your power slightly, while a thinner oil might not work well for things like towing and shock during a sudden acceleration.
     
  8. May 13, 2011 at 12:46 PM
    #8
    DblCabMN

    DblCabMN [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mar 22, 2011
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    Messages:
    693
    Gender:
    Male
    Mpls, Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    03 DC TRD/LTD
    Bilstein 5100's all around - Toytec/Eibach 112-620 Coils, Wheelers 5-Pack+Wheelers 2"AAL. 33x10.5x15 KM2s - Siped on Summit Racing 84-5883 rims with 3.750 BS. 4.88s. Demello HD round sliders. Home built full skids. Home built front bumper. Plasti'd badges. Energy Susp. steering rack bushings. Sway bar delete. Deck plate mod. aFe Pro-Dry. Gibson exhaust.
    Thanks Tylerm - Good info. Going to just slap the Master Pro in the rear and front diffs for now. Re-visit the situation in about 20k miles, see how it looks and go from there.
     
  9. May 13, 2011 at 12:52 PM
    #9
    KBToyota

    KBToyota Well-Known Member

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    OME 883, 5100 all around, Wheelers 3 leaf progressive aal
    If its GL-5 rated than it meets or exceeds all the ratings that toyota requires.
    I run coastal 75-90 because its cheap. Then if I ever get water in the axle I wont end up crying because I had to replace some pricey snake oil that meets the same standards as the "cheap stuff"
     
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