X-Runner No Start - P0102 & P0335

At my wits end with this damn truck. Bought the truck with the following codes: P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, P0102, P0332, P0335, P0340. It ran badly, I could drive it but was constantly in limp mode/wouldn't rev over 3000 RPM. I tore it all down to replace the knock sensors (broken wiring) and found timing was off 1 tooth while replacing leaky valve cover gaskets. I retimed it as seen below and l also threw in a new aftermarket crank sensor. Now it will not even fire up for more than a couple seconds. Looking for ideas, I don't remember seeing anything broken on the reluctor wheel so I'm ruling out internal. Current codes:

P0102 MAF
P0335 CPS

 

Alright, I’m going to help.
But I’m not going to “give you the answer”
I’m going to guess at least one of the problems is a wiring issue.
The other the same, or a faulty part. I wouldn’t waste my time on aftermarket Crank or Cam Senors.
But you can test yours, it’s in the information you’ll find when searching.

Type this in to google search - 1gr-fe p0335
Then look for the one(s) that is on the “ezdries .net” website.

Do the same thing for # 1gr-fe p0102

I’m not trying to be rude or condescending.
I’m actually trying to show you some tips to on how to search for the information you need
Plus, it saves a lot of typing. No need to waste time typing in suggestions when you can read them yourself

I really did search, and it really is there.

 

Either the crank sensor isn't reading properly, or not seated properly with the plug.

 

I'm unable to get any of the ezdries pdfs to load unfortunately.

For only $60-70, I think I'll try an OEM/Denso sensor first before diving any deeper with the electrical aspect of it all as that's my least strong suit. Hopefully it's just cheaping out on aftermarket parts just coming back to bite me.

 

While I wait for the new sensor to arrive, I figured I'd double check the wiring. I probed the sensor connector while cranking and can't seem to see any voltage reading. I'm guessing this is an issue correct?

 

I that the crank sensor side or the PCM side that you are probing?
Also be careful not to spread the pins in the connector with the probes.

 

Looks like them ECM side to me?

 

OP, if you have it unplugged you might check the Crank Sensor.

Specs are

1,630 Ω to 2,740 Ω when cold

2,065 Ω to 3,225 Ω when hot

 

ECM side yes.

Aftermarket sensor is showing 2,102 cold.

 

If it is your not gona see any voltage there, the crank sensor is a variable reluctance type and generates it's own voltage.
You should see AC voltage around 0.5-1vac at the crank sensor while cranking although an oscilloscope would be a better suited tool for looking at a crank signal.

 

That doesn’t mean it’s good, it can still not pick up the crank signal good.
I was just hoping you got lucky and found it “totally” bad.

Have you check wire integrity from sensor to the ECM?

 

I haven't checked for breaks anywhere upstream of the intake manifold area. I did check downstream of that, found what I thought was broken wiring but turned out to only be the metal sheathing coming apart under the blue loom. Wiring is in tact so far.

I don't have an oscope so I guess I'll try plugging the sensor connector in and check again that way for some kind of voltage while I wait on the Denso sensor.

 

You could plug the sensor in, unplug the connector at the ECM, and measure resistance between NE+ and NE-, if the wiring is good you should get close to the same resistance reading as the resistance across the sensor.
You didn't post your year model but the chart below is for 05-06.

 

New Toyota sensor in, same result. Both provide a little bit of voltage during cranking so sensors are good/I'm ruling them out. Took the timing cover off again to check for any mistakes and reluctor wheel is good as well.

Probably should have done this initially before even diving into the knock sensors/the engine but I'm taking the cams off and doing a leak down test before I waste anymore time on this thing. Had a bad feeling early on with what the PO said so we'll see once I have sunlight again...I'm hoping being 1 tooth off didn't destroy some valves for however long it was driven on.

 

Sure would be nice if you had a scope to see the crank signal.
The 335 is set when the ECM doesn’t see a signal for the crank sensor.
The voltage test doesn’t really mean much. It just tells you “it’s doing something”.

As for the MAF, you might be able to monitor it with a cheap(er) scan tool.
See if it’s with in range and changes when cranking.

Other than that, I got nothing. Sorry man.

 

Got ya, maybe I can borrow a scope from a local mechanic for a few $ if it comes down to that.

I found these metal objects (washers of some sorts?) under the truck and I'm 100% sure that they came from inside the timing cover area. Obviously I didn't put them back in but could whatever these are be causing some clearance issues of some sort?

 

It's possible, I've never been into a Toyota 4.0L but if the crank reluctor wheel isn't lining up properly with the crank sensor it's not going to work properly.
I'll look at some diagrams tonight and see if I can figure out where those shims go.

 

Maybe @Torspd knows?

I’ve been looking at diagrams myself.
I haven’t seen those parts in any of them yet?

 

Honestly, the only thing that comes to mind is the idler sprocket for the timing chain. The sprocket is in the valley between the two heads.

Pretty sure that I only remember one other person to find those separately, but don't remember who it was.

 

I believe you are correct.