X-Runner No Start - P0102 & P0335

Well apparently the CTA 10MM sockets do not work on the head bolts I have so it appears the Snap On STS12ME or a genuine Toyota bit are the only ones that will work.

From the research on here (in case anyone else comes across this), these will not actually work: CTA Tools 9295 2 Pc. Toyota/Lexus Head Bolt Wrench Set

$30 CTA Tools 9295 2 Pc. Toyota/Lexus Head Bolt Wrench Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z58VXC

 

Definitely went boom. Plugs look decent, was still in time, cylinder walls look great, plenty of oil. Confused but what can you do...

 

Well when someone trys to drill a new hole for a timing chain tensioner because they broke a bolt off in the old one that tells me about all I need to know about the quality of work they did, not to mention the questionable wiring repairs.
Hopefully the new motor will last a long time for you

 

Lots of gremlins were waiting to hatch put of that engine.

 

4Runner pan ain't too bad of a fit! Holds almost another quart of oil, I will definitely take it.

New/used engine in, cams swapped over along with sensors, new timing set and new OEM head gaskets and head bolts. Engine didn't look too bad for 228k miles but cylinders 3 and 5 were definitely leaking ever so slightly. I think the folks got their money's worth with the notorious 04 head gaskets lasting that long. Time for another 200k hopefully. Was ready for first fire today but dropped a damn lower injector o-ring and can't find it. Apparently they are pretty rare as well since no local parts store had any. And $43 (!) for a set of 6. Yikes. Toyota wanted $3 and $10 for a new water pump gasket so now the wait is on

 

And this is what happens when you don't cover up the oil pan/drop a 10mm into the oil pan...and the retrieval magnet...while tightening the tensioner. Engine comes back out...

 

Better than a couple guys that dropped a bolt down the spark plug hole while changing plugs and didn't see it but yea that kinda sucks to have to pull the engine back out for a dropped socket.

 

I remember a guy on here(I think) who had a dealership change plugs. The locking pin screw for the flex head ratchet fell out. It went into the engine. The dealership actually took responsibility. The lesson here is check those screws on the flex ratchets.

 

Officially runs yet again. First start and it fired right up. It feels so much faster and exponentially quieter. Someone mentioned about the prior engine sounding funny on start up and it potentially being down a cylinder/off timing and I think that was spot on.

The CEL reared its ugly head however so I'll have to dive into the lean codes. p0171 p0174 p2197. I'm thinking of just replacing the upstream and downstream O2s for the heck of it since those are the only things that aren't new...

 

https://youtu.be/hJUZAZZe53I

 

She sounds super healthy. Way to persevere and make it all happen.

 

I'm having issues replacing the drive belt and I cannot figure it out for the life of me. The old belt is chewed up from seizing onto the old engine. So I bought a new one and it seems to be about an inch too short from me sneaking it over the PS pump.

This is the only way I can get the old belt on, above the upper pulley. I checked the part #s for the 4Runner vs Tacoma idlers and they are the same. Anybody see anything like underdrive/overdrive pulleys?

 

You compared the two belts to each other?

Also, that crank pulley's internal rubber damper is coming apart. Keep an eye on that as it may need to be replaced soon-ish.

 

I did verify length. Same length and the old belt will not fit on now either, as seen in the photo. The outer diameter of the balancer seems the same from the 4Runner as well, just looks slightly different.

 

Something going on with the tensioner?

 

I think this could be your problem. Also, ive found it is much easier to get all of the ribbed pullies started first, then you can extend the tensioner and slide the belt over one of the smooth idlers. Makes install much less of a bear

 

Yup. That is it.