Yota will not stay running

87 toyota 4x4, 4cyl 2.4 L; Alright so I got back from deployment and found out I had bad gas in my yota.. It has been sitting for 18 months.. I siphoned the gas and put premium in it changed the fuel filter.. Good to go.. I cranked it and during the warm up idol it was good.. Then when the truck began to idol down to regular idol speed it cut out.. I cranked it back up and if I did not keep my foot on the gas it would cut out. There is an electronic solenoid sensor by the carburetor that I removed with the help of a neighbors knowledge of the problem and we cleaned up up with some intake cleaner and it as good for about 2 minutes.. Now I am sort of a stand still.. Tempted to rebuild the carburetor but don't wanna just jump into something right away.. Anyone have any idea of what I am looking here as far as issues go. Also the battery is not dead so I don't think it is the alternator.. Thanks for the support

 

If your gas was bad I think a carb cleaning and rebuild is in order.

 

Likely the carb. If you're turning over you've got spark so then it's a matter of fuel or air. Since it's been sitting and the old gas likely gummed up the carb/lines/etc. then a rebuild makes a lot of sense

 

Alright.. I have also been told it could possibly be something electrical. What is yall's take on that

 

Hi Kenneth, and welcome to TW.


You might want to also check the health of your battery if it's not a brand new one. A weak battery can cause the engine to stall at idle because the alternator is turning too slowly to power the engine without the battery to carry the load. It's a simple test that only takes less than a minute. With the engine running, turn the lights on high beam. If the lights dim and the stalling gets worse the battery is weak. Check the belt that turns the alternator, if it's slipping it won't turn the alternator fast enough at idle.


Also check for any cracked or leaking vacuum hoses. Just one small vacuum leak can make your engine die at low rpms.


I'd exhaust all of the other possibilities first before taking a run at your carb.

I had a 1988 which was the last year our little trucks had a carburetor, so yours represents the highest evolution of carbs before they were replaced with fuel injection. So it's a very good carb... but if gas has dried up in it, just putting in fresh gas won't clean the varnish out of the tiny metering passageways.


If you do a rebuild yourself, just take your time and have a clean orderly work area so that you can keep track of everything, and you'll do just fine. A little compressed air can also be a great help.


By the way, I have a Haynes Automotive Repair manual that covers your truck (1979-1990). I don't need it any more. If you PM me I'll be happy to send it to you.


Greg

 

Being that yours is carbureted, and sat for so long with that fuel in it, then there is very likely a good amount of corrosion inside the carb. From the ethanol that is in the gas. Take the carb apart, carefully, and clean out the build-up of corrosion.

 

Try to keep it running and spray some WD40 around and on the vacuum lines and look for any idle improvement. It does sound like a bad vacuum. Does the engine shutter before it dies out or does is just stop running?

 

Never heard of using WD40 to look for a vacuum leak. Usually use ether (starting fluid). WD40 has solvents and could have a detrimental effect on some parts.

 

No it does not sputter at all.. Just completely shuts off....