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Zip tie mod fail... Steering shaft knocking worse

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Apex1, Apr 15, 2019.

  1. Apr 15, 2019 at 6:24 AM
    #1
    Apex1

    Apex1 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2018
    Member:
    #271746
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    Central CT
    Vehicle:
    2011 DCSB TRD
    Maybe I have gone too far down the rabbit hole... need some help or advice.

    I have a 2011 DCSB 80k miles good shape overall but has the steering wheel knock sound going down dirt roads or bumps etc... I read the thread on zip ties in the rag joint bushing and tried it. The knocking sound was 90% better. That's where I should have stopped.

    Reading more threads I saw someone fixed the issue by shortening the steering shaft and loading the rag joint. This was done by releasing the top bolt of the shaft clamp (in engine compartment) and pushing down on the exposed shaft until only a few mm is visible. Here is the post...

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/steering-column-final-fix.277292/#post-8935421

    I figured this was better than zip ties so I tried it. The issue is the steering shaft and locking collar is pretty rusty. I am not even sure I moved it. To put downward pressure on the shaft I pried down off the upper u-joint (under dash). So not being successful with that, I decided to retreat back to the zip tie method. However I have no more big zip ties, so I used 2 smaller ones on opposite sides. If I had to guess I would say overall its tighter than with one.

    Long story short, I drove it and now the knock/noise is worse than ever! It is louder than before. Now what??? I probably f'd my self. I may try going back to the larger zip tie but my suspicion is I caused more damage. I can say the upper U-joint does have visible play. Not sure if it did before.

    Maybe time to replace the whole shaft? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
     
  2. Apr 15, 2019 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    EDDO

    EDDO                         

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    San Jose, CA
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                                                                                        CBI Moab 2.0 front bumper CBI Trail Rider 2.0 rear bumper B.A.M.F. sliders Exhaust crossover relocate Icon 2.5 front and 2.0 rear Camburg balljoint UCAs Welded stock alignment tabs Dakar Leaf Springs and 14" x 650 lb. coils Wheeler's SuperBumps (front) Icon Hydro Bumps with U-bolt flip Relentless Fab tailgate plate Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners 265/75R16 BFG T/A KO2 on black TRD faux beadlocks PTR18-35090 Custom Double Cardan Driveshaft from South Bay Driveline 2.5" dia .134" wall front, 3.0" dia .125" wall rear. Spicer 1310 joints, Spicer CB
    I tried all the zip tie stuff as well. Finally replaced the shaft with the new part number from the TSB.

    TSB attached. Did it in my garage with help from a friend.
    Parts required:
    Qty. 1 45220-04020 Shaft Assy, Steering Intermediate
    Qty. 2 90080-11555 Bolt, w/Washer

    $181 in parts; worth every penny.
    Pretty easy with two people.
    Here is the old one:

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    Wolftaco likes this.
  3. Apr 15, 2019 at 9:11 AM
    #3
    Apex1

    Apex1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Central CT
    Vehicle:
    2011 DCSB TRD
    Kind of my thought too. My concern is separating the the lower part of the shaft. It looks pretty rusty and there is no good way to push them apart.

    My other fear is I swap out the shaft and still have the issue. Everything has risks...
     
  4. Apr 15, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #4
    EDDO

    EDDO                         

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                                                                                        CBI Moab 2.0 front bumper CBI Trail Rider 2.0 rear bumper B.A.M.F. sliders Exhaust crossover relocate Icon 2.5 front and 2.0 rear Camburg balljoint UCAs Welded stock alignment tabs Dakar Leaf Springs and 14" x 650 lb. coils Wheeler's SuperBumps (front) Icon Hydro Bumps with U-bolt flip Relentless Fab tailgate plate Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners 265/75R16 BFG T/A KO2 on black TRD faux beadlocks PTR18-35090 Custom Double Cardan Driveshaft from South Bay Driveline 2.5" dia .134" wall front, 3.0" dia .125" wall rear. Spicer 1310 joints, Spicer CB
    True, no guarantees. Either replace all the way down to the rack or soak that joint in PB Blaster before you start trying to separate it.
     
  5. Apr 15, 2019 at 10:44 AM
    #5
    Apex1

    Apex1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just swapped zip ties (because why not?) cut out the two smaller ones and replaced with one larger one. Good news it is better. Bad news is a different sound. Before was a duller knocking sound when going over bumps. That is mostly gone but now on the biggest hits there is more of a metallic noise. I would guess its either the upper u-joint or the lower steering column bearing. There is some slight radial play in the column.

    My guess is jamming the zip tie in there sends more NVH up the steering column. Nothing beats a properly engineered rag joint to eliminate noise and vibration but still provide feel.
     
  6. Apr 28, 2019 at 7:18 AM
    #6
    Apex1

    Apex1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I bought a new shaft and in the process of swapping it out. What a pain! The old one is marked and loose on both ends but does not slide enough to pull it out.

    Does it slide up first or down? What coupler is disconnected first?

    Thanks
     
  7. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:02 AM
    #7
    EDDO

    EDDO                         

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                                                                                        CBI Moab 2.0 front bumper CBI Trail Rider 2.0 rear bumper B.A.M.F. sliders Exhaust crossover relocate Icon 2.5 front and 2.0 rear Camburg balljoint UCAs Welded stock alignment tabs Dakar Leaf Springs and 14" x 650 lb. coils Wheeler's SuperBumps (front) Icon Hydro Bumps with U-bolt flip Relentless Fab tailgate plate Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners 265/75R16 BFG T/A KO2 on black TRD faux beadlocks PTR18-35090 Custom Double Cardan Driveshaft from South Bay Driveline 2.5" dia .134" wall front, 3.0" dia .125" wall rear. Spicer 1310 joints, Spicer CB
     
  8. Apr 28, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #8
    Apex1

    Apex1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Central CT
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    Yeah I read that but it didn’t work. Both couplers would move but not enough to slide the shaft out.

    I just unbolted the column and moved it up a bit. No big deal.

    Bottom line is it is done and feels 100% better.
     
    Freeheelbillie and EDDO like this.
  9. Jan 12, 2021 at 5:26 AM
    #9
    BigHoss96

    BigHoss96 Well-Known Member

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