Zip typing proportioning valve higher

So I was thinking about unbolting my proportioning valve from the rear axle and zip tying it as high as it will go. To the best of my knowledge this will give me max pressure to the rear brakes. This seems advantageous to me for a few reasons. The two most readily available to argue are better feel when braking - less of a nose dive feeling, and better braking in general - grabbing more with the rear brakes and wheels.

Any cons? Anyone who has done this willing to provide me with your experience? BS welcome too


Finally, I tried it out

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Yes I'm a ginger. Let the roast begin

 

Your valve needs to be properly adjusted for safe braking. If you adjust them too much one way your rear will lock up risking a spin. Too much the other way and they do almost nothing. The Toyota proportioning valve works by adjust the brakes based on how much load you have. The greater the load in the stronger the rear brakes. Many folks on here have replaced that with a manualy adjusted valve. I suggest you tread carefully when making changes to the balance of your brakes.

 

Thank you for the insight. I knew it was load based but didn't know how powerful the rear brakes are or that a lockup scenario could be an issue. ABS should help with that type of an event though.

 

well thanks for the bump lol

 

the more the arm is moved up the less rear braking you will have.

When I started to drive we had no brake bias valves you just learned to drive .

Knowing how things would react

 

To the best of my knowledge, the more the arm is moved up, the more rear braking you should have - more load in the back/bed would collapse the suspension and move the frame closer to the axle (moving the arm upward). It's designed to create more brake power when the bed is loaded. I'm considering just zip tying it up and taking it out on a test drive to see how it reacts...

 

It is a moot point all mine have been removed after they quit working

It very well may be your correct I have not looked at one in 10 years or so .

My theory was as the arm moves down the valve closes allowing less fluid returned to the front

 

I find this thread very interesting due to the fact that when I recently had a lift put in my truck, there was a adjustment piece for that valve put on. Now after getting my truck back I swear the brakes don't work as good. Possibly not getting any assist from the rear ? I wasn't sure if they were actually different or I was just used to the much newer loaner truck I had for a month. Now I'm going to have to look into that vavkevand bracket more. Sorry if this is considered a hijack.

 

RAT PRODUCTS had his zipped all the way as will I . No problems that I know of

 

Had being the operative word... he turned his into a Dodge and then sold it.

 

It worked for all DD purposes

 

Bigger tires as well? Bigger tires will change the brakes effectiveness. So ya, I have to help a friend move today but later I'm going to try this. I'll get back to you guys with an update

 

So what did you do after you removed it? Just a hard line bypass?

 

No same tires - I just looked and the bracket is on the other side. Proportioning valve is in same location as stock at this point . So maybe considering that - I'm getting no back brakes ?

 

Yes I'm looking forward to hearing -

 

I have the ome bracket which is basically a small piece of metal that moves the mounting location further up, but it seems like I nosedive when braking. Anyway, ya, wither later tonight or tomorrow ill update on hard braking with proportioning valve at full load position

 

My rear brakes prob. do not work but anytime I've tried to adjust them better they lock up w/ just a touch of brakes. No ABS to correct so can't speak for how much better that system works.

I don't know. I've had a truck all of my life but the Toyo. has the worst rear braking of any vehicle I've owned. Never had ABS before but also never had probs. with locking up rears. All of my old trucks still required changing shoes every once in a while so they did work.

 

If you did a lift you would want the bracket to move down to keep it in the same position as stock. It already moved up.

 

The first step in improving dive or squat in many race prepped street car racing venues is with suspension corrections.

Braking is addressed independently of that. On any marquee, 1st thing is to make sure everything is cleaned, lubricated, adjusted and fully functional. The Tacoma has pretty decent brakes even in OE form, for the purposes the truck is produced for, when maintained correctly.

Proportioning valves are important, and sometimes they can be tweaked by installing a unit from a later model of the same type vehicle (the OE has created improvements) or sometimes (depending on class rules) a manually adjustable unit gets installed, and experimentation is needed to know what settings for various course types.

A truck is a different beast than a 50/50 balanced car though. You really don't want rear grip to send you spinning around. You might experiment on dry surfaces and think all is well, and the first oil foamed rain road you hit............

I personally think Toyota was pretty clever using a load sensitive valve.