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Adding some new D-rings in bed

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Old 11-04-2011, 05:29 PM   #1
Iluvtacos [OP] Iluvtacos is offline
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Adding some new D-rings in bed

adding xtra d-rings
I was about to add four d-rings to my bed at the bolts on the floor when I started reading the instructions which came with them. The d-rings were purchased from a Toyota dealer. I have attached a copy of the instructions. Let me hear some feedback. I like placement of these d-rinds but would like to hear if it would compromise the structural rigidity of the bed where these will be attached.
Thanks
RC
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Old 11-04-2011, 05:42 PM   #2
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Why noy put them under the existing bed bolts, like most do? That way you need no backing plate. If you attach to the bed liner itself be SURE to use a backing plate, or you could pull the nut through the composite liner.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:59 PM   #3
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Got my rings and going to do this tomorrow in front and middle. I'm definitely going to use the bed bolts as mounting points.
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta_taco View Post
mine cost 2.50 each they were rated for 5000 lbs and installed under the existing bed bolts

Are those from the stealership?
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:33 PM   #5
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Tried to do mine today. After 45min I was unable to get any of the 4 bed bolts to budge. Lots of WD40 and struggling.

I'm not the strongest tool in the shed or the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I can usually find a way to get things done. The weak link seems to be keeping the torx bit in the bolt. I can't really put all my muscle into it without the bit slipping out of the bolt. I don't have a good cheater bar - but even if I did I'm not sure it would help.

Anyone else have trouble with this?
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:50 PM   #6
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Some folks have this happen, I used an impact driver, lubed with anti-seize upon reassembly.
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iluvtacos View Post
adding xtra d-rings
I was about to add four d-rings to my bed at the bolts on the floor when I started reading the instructions which came with them. The d-rings were purchased from a Toyota dealer. I have attached a copy of the instructions. Let me hear some feedback. I like placement of these d-rinds but would like to hear if it would compromise the structural rigidity of the bed where these will be attached.
Thanks
RC
Attached Thumbnails
I, too, put my Toyota d-rings under the existing forward bed bolts. Used a T55 torx wrench out of a set of six from Tool King. These look like allen wrenches. Just slipped a two-foot pipe over it and they both loosened with no real effort.

Just don't think mounting them to plastic is the best idea. I threw the left-over plates in the junk drawer.

I did use some anti-seize when putting those long bed bolts back in. They were kinda hinky coming out.

Whit
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:55 PM   #8
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That's why I quit for now. The one I was working on the most still looks OK, but every time the bit slips out I know it's stripping a little.

I'll hit it with the WD40 periodically and hopefully it will soften things up.

Not sure if I'm coordinated enough to use my knee that way. We'll see. I really don't want to drill more holes in the bed.


TL
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iluvtacos View Post
adding xtra d-rings
I was about to add four d-rings to my bed at the bolts on the floor when I started reading the instructions which came with them. The d-rings were purchased from a Toyota dealer. I have attached a copy of the instructions. Let me hear some feedback. I like placement of these d-rinds but would like to hear if it would compromise the structural rigidity of the bed where these will be attached.
Thanks
RC
Attached Thumbnails
I did mine just like the paper says. No structural problems at all. I just wouldn't go cranking down 4" industrial straps as hard as you can on them. If I were to do it again, I'd mount them a few inches higher though.
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primer View Post
That's why I quit for now. The one I was working on the most still looks OK, but every time the bit slips out I know it's stripping a little.

I'll hit it with the WD40 periodically and hopefully it will soften things up.

Not sure if I'm coordinated enough to use my knee that way. We'll see. I really don't want to drill more holes in the bed.


TL
If you're using a socket-type Torx, put the socket on a break-over bar then when you apply torque to the bar/pipe, give the bar/bolt head a sharp rap with a hammer. This will oftentimes ease the bolt's 'stretch' enough to pop it loose.

(Works for tightening too, ask any gunsmith)

Whit
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:42 PM   #11
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I used the D-rings from an army surplus store: 1/4 of the price of OEM, and much stronger. Put them under the bed bolts and torqued them back to about 60 lbs. Has been working well so far!
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:58 PM   #12
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Here is a DIY: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-bed-pics.html

There is a thread somewhere where a guy added 10 d rings under the rail system mount bolts. I thought I subed it but apparently not.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
Here is a DIY: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-bed-pics.html

There is a thread somewhere where a guy added 10 d rings under the rail system mount bolts. I thought I subed it but apparently not.
Is this what you were talking about?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ml#post1674070
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:39 PM   #14
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Yes thank you!
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primer View Post
Tried to do mine today. After 45min I was unable to get any of the 4 bed bolts to budge. Lots of WD40 and struggling.

I'm not the strongest tool in the shed or the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I can usually find a way to get things done. The weak link seems to be keeping the torx bit in the bolt. I can't really put all my muscle into it without the bit slipping out of the bolt. I don't have a good cheater bar - but even if I did I'm not sure it would help.

Anyone else have trouble with this?
Try a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and auto trans fluid. let it sit overnight. The bolts should be able to be removed. Do not get any of this mixture on a painted surface.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:03 AM   #16
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I'm planning of buying this for this project:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4&blockType=G4

T-55 is a separate buy. Heading to Sears now.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:11 AM   #17
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I put mine in the factory location and they work great... I don't see any need to mess with the bed bolts.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primer View Post
That's why I quit for now. The one I was working on the most still looks OK, but every time the bit slips out I know it's stripping a little.

I'll hit it with the WD40 periodically and hopefully it will soften things up.

Not sure if I'm coordinated enough to use my knee that way. We'll see. I really don't want to drill more holes in the bed.


TL
Are you using the T55?, seems I remember it being a real tight fit, and slipping was not an issue. I used the bed bolts as well with a cheater bar,had to put a ton of muscle in it, but they came and did not slip out.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hendooman View Post
Are you using the T55?, seems I remember it being a real tight fit, and slipping was not an issue. I used the bed bolts as well with a cheater bar,had to put a ton of muscle in it, but they came and did not slip out.
I removed mine with no problem using a torque wrench and a T55 bit, as a matter of fact they come out a little too easily for my liking... but after I was done I torqued them back to 60lbs as per specs. My truck was very new at the time, only about 2500 miles, so I expected the bolts to be harder to remove, being closer to factory condition. Maybe with time rust and dirt make the bolts seize a bit? Still, it shouldn't be that hard, using the correct size bit and an appropriately sized wrench.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:12 PM   #20
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I want to do this mod but am hoping someone can offer some insight.

I am going to add the DRings the the side of the box which is where they intend. I am also going to add them to the box floor utilizing the frame bolt per the OP.

I was thinking of installing the DRing through a cleanly drilled whole of the bed mat that would be in line of the bolt that goes into the frame. This way they are over the bed mat and look good without having to cut the bed mat out. I really don't want to cut the bed mat because it looks so good! This would also act somewhat as a deterrent from someone stealing the bed mat or possibly it come flying out of by box since it is fastened down as well.

Would having 1/2" less engaged threads into the bed frame be detrimental? The bed mat is 1/2" so I would lose that in thread engagement.

Has anyone tried what I am thinking? Any success or pictures?

Thanks
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