Searching threads stuck in park cruise works but light flashes

Don't know if any of this is related but my automatic transmission selector will not shift without using override button and same day while my cruise control was engaged the light was flashing but still working I am going to scan but I was checking with Taco people if any of you have had this issue? Thank You

 

Shifter stuck in park http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-failed-2.html


TSB 0277-09
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...al-switch.html

 

Ok more help where is the brake light switch? Used search function on this forum!

 

Check the fuses by the battery, I had the same problem and it was a blow fuse.

Extra fuses should be on the bottom of the lid to the fuse box.

See the manual for which fuse it could be.

 

Under dash at top of brake pedal. If the switch is bad or mis adjusted it may be the issues. Check your fuses first !!, Then check your brake lights too.

 

Ok I am going to ohm out fuses this weekend

 

Burned out fuse on brake light where do I chase down what caused it it happened with no trailer hooked up just long distance drive.

 

I got my truck stuck and someone pulled me out which is what popped mine. I don't really know if there's a way to tell.

 

IGN-1 Fuse is blown.

 

i bet your AC controls dont work?

 

Did you save the burned fuse??

 

Ok, AC control works, think I saved fuse was a complete burn out in two, get in it today (drive company rig all week) and shifter stuck again going to check fuse again where am I going to ground? Think it's a direct short I do pull but nothing when fuse burnt thinking trying at trailer lights and working forward.

 

Look at the fuse. If it's vaporized it's a dead short to ground. If it just melted enough to open the circuit, it's over amperage draw. Tell me what you see and I'll try to help.

 

Okay here's a picture of fuse smoked http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/432315/cat/500/size/big

 

It looks like an over amperage not a short, but Per the picture I'm not absolutely sure.

How many amps is the fuse?

Fuse powers what ???

Is the fuse the correct amperage?

Did you install another and did it blow ???

Do you have trailer harness?? If so, aftermarket or Factory??

Sorry for the delay response. my wireless router had an issue I needed to fix ...

 

It looks like an over amperage not a short, but Per the picture I'm not absolutely sure.

How many amps is the fuse? 15 amps I believe

Fuse powers what ??? Brake lights


Is the fuse the correct amperage? Yes always put right amperage in Journeyman electrician (high voltage)

Did you install another and did it blow ???just that one to replace the one that blew

Do you have trailer harness?? If so, aftermarket or Factory?? Yes trailer harness factory tow package do have electric trailer brake box installed by a trailer place
I Put my ohmmeter on it rang out minute i depressed brakes petal (1 on hot one one on other side just completed circut right?
Thanks

 

Well it is working now correct??? DO not put in a higher amp fuse.
Since it's working now It's a bitch to find it.

This is what I'd do.

Buy extra fuses and keep them handy.
Drive the vehicle as is and see if it blows the fuse. Let a number if days go by.
If it does or does not blow. Hook up the trailer with the e brakes and take a spin to see if it blows. If it does you have a starting point. if it blows with the e brake now connected, I'd isolate the ebrake line going from your truck to THE CONTROLLER (not the trailer). cut into the E brake wire that is blowing the fuse (use your ohm meter back to the fuse) and splice an inline fuse and put in a 10 (ten) AMP.

Repeat the above and see which fuse blows first. If it blows in the fuse box - the problem is in the truck ... if the lower 10 amp new in line fuse blows - its the E brake adapter and or from there to/in your trailer ...

Does that help??

 

It blew with out trailer hooked up seems to blow the after depressing the brake petal it has been doing this when i am not towing

 

can you disconnect the ebrake controller that was added?? Do that and see if it still blows. IF it does I'll have to start looking at schematics.

If it does not blow then;

isolate the ebrake power line going from your truck to THE CONTROLLER (not the trailer). cut into the E brake wire that is blowing the fuse (use your ohm meter back to the fuse) and splice an inline fuse and put in a 10 (ten) AMP.

 

Ok don't know if this is related but I found 3 random wires appearing to come out of the driver side tail light red, red white stripe and black no voltage when I put volt meter on them but I didn't have lamps or brake depressed taped the off and disconnect tr brake controls so far so good