Need a few Pointers on lift Install

Hey Guys,

I know this isn't the suspension forum but I've asked questions in there before and it usually results in waiting a couple days to get a response. I wasn't planning on installing my lift yet so haven't had a chance to do all the reading I would have liked, but things have come up so the lift is being done this weekend. I was hoping to get a few (simple?) questions answered ahead of time though.

Lift Details
5100's front and back
885 coils (already assembled with front 5100s)
Wheeler 3 leaf progressive AAL
Camburg BJ UCA's

I found a good write up on the AAL and UCA install but the only one I found for the shock removal has all of the pics dead and alternate links also dead. My questions....

1) Is there an active and good link for front shock removal?

2) With the progressive AAL is there any directional considerations like left and right and also front or back. I don't think there was any instructions that came with them, but I vaguely recall reading that one end from the center pin is longer than the other. If that was the case then I would think the long end must either be facing the front or the back.

3) Are there any bolts / nuts that need to be torqued after the weight of the truck is back on the wheels rather than while it is still on jacks? I imagine there will be a few that would be torqued while still on jacks due to no room once the wheels are back on?

4) Any and all tips are welcome! I'll be reading what I can tonight so I'm ready for battle

It's probably obvious from some of my questions that I don't have a ton of mechanical experience, but want to start learning some things which is why I decided to get a buddy to help me install this rather than bringing it to a shop.

 

1) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-front-shock-spring-removal.31862/

2) Yes.. it'll say in the instructions included with the AALs, I don't recall specifically enough to say, but I ran that same AAL and installed it myself.

3) Everything needs to be retorqued before you put the truck on the ground, and rechecked again when it's sitting on it's own wheels. Check them again after a few hundred miles of driving.

4) You'll be fine.

 

everything on the front suspension is ONLY torqued when under weight as most of the bushings have the center sleeve bonded to the rubber.

To remove the strut assembly, easiest way i found is mark the Cam bolts on the lca to frame attachment points. Loosen them. loosen the 2 bolts that hold the LCA to the spindle. This will allow you to fully drop the spring / strut / shock out without the need for a spring compressor (if you were just swapping shocks) or any need for prying anything. Then simply do the reverse, making sure to tighten the LCA to frame cam bolts when the suspension is under load for the stated reason above.

Other than that you should be good.

 

Thanks guys! As far as the torque I imagine snug it up decent while on the jack stands and then actually hit it with the torque wrench when the truck is back on the ground?

@DCSBFTMFW #1 is the link I found but all of the pics are dead in that now. Also the alternate links he listed in that thread are a dead end too. I can probably figure it all out, but never hurts to read a tutorial first if there is one around.

 

And here are all the torque specs for you brother.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

If you go to the link DCSB posted, go to page 8 (I think..) you'll find the pics.

 

I believe with the leafs it's the longer part of the leaf to the rear. You will see what I am talking about when you look at it, but the directions should say that as well. I have the ICON's which are exactly the same.

 

FWIW I believe you're right, long side to the rear - but I wasn't 100% so didn't post it.

Definitely says so on the instructions. Bear in mind if you have any questions, Wheelers Offroad was/is closed on Fridays. Of course, I installed mine on a Friday and had a question or 3 - luckily @Moose1988 was a brotha and let me text him any questions I had and he was a big help clarifying stuff when I needed it.

 

Here is a decent set of instructions on the AAL install.

 

Thanks Rick... printed off some of those pages just earlier today!

Truly appreciated guys. I hate to be one of those people that just start a thread and ask a ton of questions without searching, but like I said my plans got shuffled around and it was either do the lift this weekend or wait a couple months so I'm gonna go for it!

 

Will be diving into this tomorrow morning. Quick question I'm pretty sure I know the answer to but I'll just go ahead and ask so I know for sure. The 1/4" taco lean spacer goes on top of the strut like the picture below shows and then get sandwiched between that top strut plate and plate in the truck that it all gets bolted to right?



Unfortunately I found the boot on my driver side UCA has a small tear in it brand new. I'll get in touch with @YotaDan on Monday, but I imagine it should be okay for a short while until a new boot is sent? Is there any good way to protect in the meantime?



Barely noticeable at a glance...



Until the BJ is deflected then she opens right up. Not thrilled about that but I guess shit happens. Wish I had looked them over earlier so that could have been corrected before install though.

Otherwise has anyone ever had an issue putting the Camburg top caps on the UCAs? It says you may need to hone the ID a bit to get the cap on. I've honed as much as I feel comfortable going and the O Ring on the cap refuses to go in even with it being greased. I'm not sure if maybe the O Rings included are just a real bugger or if mine are the wrong size? I'll probably hit up an auto parts store and see if I can find one of the same diameter but a bit thinner.

 

@Unchained 5150 Rick how were your caps to go on the UCAs? Seems like I would be honing the ID of that cup for a long time before the O Ring would go in.

 

I remember that mine required a light coating of bushing grease and a little encouragement from my mallet, done after installation. No honing...

 

I think there may be something up with mine. I did a grease coating, honing, mallet taps and even tried a little tension with a c clamp and tapping. It seems like the O Ring is just too thick to compress enough to go in.

I don't suppose you know the answer on the spacer to correct the Taco lean? Pretty sure I've got it right but wanted to check before I install it tomorrow.

 

The spacer is in

You are correct on the spacer. It mounts right where you think it does.

 

Racheting. Spanners. they will make removing the top hat bolts a breeze.... or you can bust your knuckles for 2 hours like i did

 

See mine slipped right in, and weren't snug. They told me to use some silicone around the lip with the fishing line under it. Then push the cap in while taking the fishing line out at the same time. They stay in great now, hope that helps brother.