Mid Travel BS 2.0

yeah, no steering stop and arms wider where the OEM wasnt. Mine has the same turn impact marks as well.

 

Does anyone have the TC install document with the photos that show where to cut the steer stop and where to grind the cup ? Would be good to have posted for reference in here...seems like a lot of folks miss that.

 

My Solo lowers have gnarly impact marks...I forgot to cut the steer stops off before I sent the spindles and LBJ adapts to powder coat...forgot to cut them when I installed the kit...drove to the alignment shop and got hit by a Corolla right in the front tire which introduced the steer stop to the LCA in a violent manner :/

 

i still have my LCA instructions at home that show it. If no one can find it online. I looked but couldnt find.

 

So I have a weird opportunity potentially. Long story short truck was stolen, got it back, repair check could be $9500. Could fix for $3500. So I have $6000 to drop on suspension.

What I have: Icons on all 4 and a Deaver J66. In my office is a a shackle flip, King 12" shocks and hydro bumps.

What I'm thinking: Front might go +2 kit, Chaos or Baja Kits. I won't go wider than 2" so we can save that discussion, or we can have it if desired haha. King coilovers up front and some various gussets and what not. Keep it 4wd. Rear I would like to ditch the flip kit and the Deavers and do something with at least 12" travel to match the front. Maybe Chaos kit, maybe DMZ.

Why post in MT: Because it's not gunna be a prerunner. More jack of all trades with a strong option to go fast when needed. Truck is a DD and will be used for a commute so no 35's or anything over the top (why I want +2). Trying to land on some answers with what directions to finalize. Might also consider replacement lowers and stay stock width and get bypasses... All about tuning right! I am pretty knowledgable on the subject but like bouncing ideas.

Any feedback from the safe space!?

 

If it's a DD, then I wouldn't go long travel. Seeing others over time who are LT their trucks do sit on jack stand for periods of time.

 

Valid point. My goal here is to justify taking on the risk of doing the repair myself. I would need to benefit a lot by doing it. So if I decide to keep things rather simple, then it might not be worth the trouble...

 

A nice mid travel setup sounds like what you want. Much better performance than oem yet not going overboard.

 

I kind of have that now. Icons and their UCAs. It's ok. Was in the process of switching over to Kings when the truck got stolen. Done a few trips with it. Rides rough but works good when I am on the peddle. Rear is a cover wagon. Partly due to the lack of weight in the bed area but still not great when I have a large load of steel plate in the back. I know that either way I go, the suspension needs to be changed.

The real dilemma of MT is the rear... I have the shackle flip kit but haven't installed it. Still not convinced it is the right answer for me. Would love a better solution with a better leaf pack but there is kind of a big jump from the direct bolt on kits to the next level. I find it weird that all the American trucks have a lot of spring options for the tension style shackles but Toyota's don't. Probably due to the goofy way the front leaf mount is under the frame but the rear is outside. Deaver will sell the Chaos SUA springs for $850 that bolt into the factory locations. They might be a decent solution.

 

Sorry about your truck man, but at least you got it back and are making the best of it.

As for the mods, I was in that same place you are now with a decision to go SUA or remain SOA and make the absolute best of it (for me)


In the end there were a few main reasons why i stayed SOA.

1. I already had Deaver leafs and I didnt want to drop a few hundred more and make a sale/purchase again. There was an opportunity at a used shackle flip, 12s, shackles, Ubolt flip and lines at the time also.

2. It always drove me nuts lifting a tire and not getting everything out of the rear setup I had. Shocks that were too short and leafs that were stuck attached to the shitty shackle design. If i cant keep a locked wheel on the ground, im not moving through the obstacles on my own power.

3. Sure, i get on the gas every now and then on a trail, but its not what I love. The scenery and a challenge is what i love. Its a great feeling to go through something a Jeep guy said you couldnt.


You have a good mindset right now and youre asking to be fed knowledge to make an informed decision.
The answer: builds, look at a few builds. There are a few that will really help you and just in the first few pages at that. I discussed this in the first few pages of this very safe place and linked a shit ton of builds.

 

Great reply and thank you for a place to eat my milk and cookies while I learn! Hahaha ok no more safe space jokes. I just think it's really funny.

I have read a ton of builds. I have seen a lot of good and bad. I get what @northwesttaco is saying about a lot of LT trucks being stuck on jack stands for a while. Dependability is very important for this truck. I just find it very hard to install a TC LCA and then have to put wheel spacers on in order to clear a 2nd shock, might as well got +2 and get the benefits. So that's kind of my thinking there. Plus the +2 will fill a set of McNeil 2" fenders nicely and that will help me with my body work tramendusly hahahaha.

The rear is the real question mark. I have seen builds where guys do simple +2 kits in the front and the flip in the rear and claim to like it. Then others have gone full DMZ. I want the truck to be able to do a lot of things, which of course means compromises. The flip is great for mo expo style wheeling which I do find myself doing from time to time. But I am moving back to CA in 8 months and will be living next to some great desert playgrounds. I would love to have some more wheel travel and ability to hit the skinny when wanted. Not a full up desert truck but be able to go to the dance when I want.

It's a lot in both directions. LT even +2, will add additional stress to the whole front frame of the truck. Rack wear, cracks, engine mounts, upgraded steering, etc are all things I will eventually face with even a +2 kit on the truck. So I need to consider the costs and down time involved with all of those. Same with the rear. A DMZ kit is fab heavy, cost heavy, and will reduce road manors for sure. But the flip kits will more than likely leave me wanting more. I have seen people complain about the mid travel SUA kits, saying you want more quickly but they do look like a decent compromise...

 

Do you need a secondary shock? Or just want it because having bypasses is cool?

 

I only experience about 2 pairs of panties thrown at my truck every mile and I need to get that number up to at least 5!!!! Sorry, hahaha

I look at it as a good compromise to not going with a +2 kit. Making the 9.5" of stock width travel work to perfection would be a great way to go. Also thinking of doing a hydro bump up front instead of a bypass to reduce cost and still get some of the dual zone benefits.

 

Well you can get both the DK and the TC stock length LCAs without secondary mounts.

Have you looked at Brownie and Morroco Taco builds on TCs site?

 

If you bomb the desert then I'd say yes get a secondary shock. But a properly tuned coil over will save you a bunch of $$$ yet perform incredibly well

 

Both of those builds are great. My budget is a little short to build the Morroco truck... Or to even make something comparable I think. When I priced it out the front kit, front shocks, and DMZ rear with various parts was right at my threshold. Though it would make for one killer ride in the desert for sure. Wonder how a truck like that does hauling the groceries!?

Brownie is deffinetly reachable with my budget and I have some of the parts already. The more I look at this project, the more I think this will be more reasonable. I have body damage and I'm sure a few hidden issue I will need to address. So keeping the project more level headed will probably lead to more success.

Guy run the McNeil 2" with stock width ya? They look good with 285's? I wish they made matching rears....

You are 100% correct! If I stay stock width, which I am leaning to I want it to work the best that it can. I wonder what the ride difference between a bypass and just a hydro bump in the front would be?

 

I've been told that you don't notice a front hydro bump as much as you do having one in the back. I know some LT guys don't have them up front.

 

I have had them on various vehicles. On my old OJ Bronco I really noticed it in the front, but I also didn't have big shocks so it was in play a lot more. Never had with A-arms personally

As for the rear, 100% need them. With my current setup my rear bottomed out a lot. The rear wheel travel is probably a whole whopping 8" and the 2.5" Icon was not enough. The stock length SUA might be the good bridge paired with the 12" kings and the hydro bump I have sitting here. Almost bolt on and I would just need to make a longer shackle, not too much work considering everything. A little bit of custom fab for shocks and stuff but my shop is well equipped and it's not hard work. Funny, in my time as a fabricator I have done over 40 tube chassis and all kinds of various suspension setups. It is working within the specs of a stock truck that becomes a lot more of a challenge as I try to fit all this stuff in there... Tube chassis are easy to set up and tab out...

 

I love my cawl box.

 

!!!