Long Travel BS Thread

Am I the only one who removes fuel tanks to weld around those areas? Lol

 

Same. Lol

Also caught my headliner on fire multiple times.

 

Most likely

 

Sounds like you hired a hack, zip ties to hold a filler neck on a long travel truck, he must not work on many off-road trucks. Sounds like you may have got what you paid for. Why can't he mock up a tab and pull the neck off to weld it.

Welding around tanks doesn't bother me. But I am much more hesitant to weld on tanks than I was in my teens and early twenties

 

@jeffz0rz welded / cut through a tank. Probably not what any of you are going for, but true story

 

Hes full of shit. There is a factory bracket on the fuel fill where it bolts to the frame. Quite simple to make an extension.

 

Yup that’s all you gotta do.

 

Can anyone take a picture of how their fuel neck is setup? I will take it back and tell him.

 

He probably doesn't have alot of experience on working with tacomas like you do but I woudn't call him a hack, he has a ton of experience working on race trucks.I paid a bit more than what you charged but went with this guy because its convenient for me since he is local. Heres a pic of his truck he was working on when I swang by to pick mines up.

 

Just because someone has a big tube chassis truck in the shop doesn’t mean they built it... just sayin.

 

He built it and told me it has about 800hp. He also got lots of projects going on in his shop but I wasn't able to take any pictures. He's going to be racing in the upcoming 1000.

 

He could be Johnny woods building the milling dollar diesel, but if he puts your gas filler together with zip ties he's still a hack. Being good as your job isn't about building one truck that's honestly still not that impressive looking. It's about consistently doing clean quality work and not taking shortcuts to save time or pinch pennies.

What most people don't think about is if a guy is willing to cut corners on things you can see like the filler neck what will he do in areas you'll never see. He obviously didn't cycle the suspension to check for driveshaft plunge. None of those are big issues but definetly makes you think.

 

Finally sacked up and finished my intake...I hate working with stainless it's soo hard on tools and is just frustrating to machine..... but it's done and my truck runs, now to valve the coilovers and button up a few other things and I can take it to the store for a victory

 

Oh and yea my filler neck deal is still stock and hangin in the wind works great lol

 

Semi floater 9” or full floater? Let the debate begin

 

Full

 

@TacoAC

Here's some calculations:

2nd Gen 4.10 w/ 285/75R17's


2nd Gen 4.10 w/ 315/75R17's


2nd Gen 4.56 w/ 285/75R17's


2nd Gen 4.56 w/ 315/75R17's


2nd Gen 4.88 w/ 285/75R17's


2nd Gen 4.88 w/ 315/75R17's


@Blackdawg

I ran some calculations and I have to agree the extra gear in the 2nd gen's transmission can keep the engine in its happy place better. I am primarily concerned with the cruising gear since my trips usually involve 100+ mile runs through flat, straight, and empty (I usually make these runs in the wee hours) freeways. The 1st gen (.838) and 2nd gen (.849) top gear ratios are quite similar. After checking out some basic stock power to curb weight ratios (with a sc'd first gen w/ stock pulley to make things fit my desired specs though) it seems that unless the 2nd gen's transmission is dramatically more efficient or the power band charts are drastically different between the 3.4 and the 4.0, that the first gen with a sc would have an advantage in power to weight over 2nd gens with roughly the same engine speed at freeway speeds.

The 1st gen extra cab 4x4's curb weight (according to google) is 3430 lbs with a 190 hp + 64 sc'd hp, 220 lb-ft + 50 lb-ft (according to Gadget) engine for a power to weight ratio of .74 and torque to weight ratio of .79.

The 2nd gen access cab 4x4's curb weight (according to google) is 3960 lbs with a 226 hp, 334 lb-ft engine for a power to weight ratio of .60 and a torque to weight ratio of .084.

Considering the first gens have a smaller frontal surface area, it seems that it's either a wash or a slight advantage in the 1st gen's favor. Either way I had way too much nerdy time tonight. Gtg - time for some strippers and blow to attain the balance.

 

I'm back! New 05-15 tacoma kit.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dez-toy-fab-lt-kit.370820/page-10






Also more progress on Cory's rig

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dirt-yota-lt-build.396918/page-11

 

Not about power at that point. It's torque. And .6 liters of displacement can't be made up by a blower.

I learned this first hand when my dad bought the blower in hope it wouldn't down shift on the highway during hills. But it didn't help at all. Added armor and 34s. Finally regeared. Worked amazing barely down shifts and pulls way harder than it ever did that was with 4.56.

I have driven several regeared 1st gens and with an auto. 4.88s is perfect. A manual and 4.88s is almost the same as my 5.29s and 35s. Over geared.

Of you're dead set on 35s. You need 4.88s at least. 4.56 is fine for a manual and 33s. It's really close to oem with 4.10s and 31s. But for 35s...no way. Not for offroading especially. Be the same as 33s and 4 10s or worse due to the weight. Crawling would suuuuuccckk

Math is great. But still differs from the real word. Every gear calculator I used was half right. It told me the rpm and speed my speedo would read. But it didn't take into account how the speedo would change after the regear. So it was all off a lot. Haha

Just my experience with gearing with 2 trucks personally and having helped and been around many.