Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/engine-vibration-drone-at-2k-rpms.463719/


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-drone-humm-buzz-at-2k-rpm-loaded.477778/

Ive carried on some conversations in a few other threads too. I just don't know what to do. Ive neglected trying anything because its all been just kinda inconclusive. and yeah, I don't wanna just throw money at it.. Because ive had to do that with several other things on this truck. I like the truck and don't want to have to sell it., I just hate driving it. And all the weird little things like this I keep dealing with.

 

@gearcruncher . Question , is it normal for my transmission to hit temps between 200-220 for under a minute while towing around 3000 lbs? Normally it stays around 185 until pulling hills . I do leave the transmission in 4th gear . Fluid has been flushed once and pan dropped once with new strainer not long ago maybe 1500 miles and about 6oz of Lubegard added . (V6 ,2008 SR 5 )109000 miles My temps never got this high before and I just had my frame swapped Thanks. I had Tow package added after I bought truck new . Hayden transmission cooler . Brake controller and obviously the hitch . Thanks again

 

@gearcruncher . I am not sure if during the frame swap some transmission fluid is lost and Toyota should check and refill ?

 

When you are towing and driving up hills , your torque converter stays unlocked for longer periods of time . This will drive the temps up very quickly , so I will say its pretty much normal unless they removed something from the transmission cooling system when they replaced the frame .
I dont beleive your truck came with a factory aftercooler . Have you considered installing one ? Cheap insurance for about 100 bucks

 

You mean something besides the Hayden trans cooler ?

 

Also the temps from my Ultra Gauge are the Torque converter temps . I have not programmed it for the pan .

 

Sorry , I didnt know you had a aftercooler installed . Just got home from work and there were multiple posts to this thread . I didnt go back far enough in the threads to see you indicated you had a cooler ...my bad . lol

 

Yes , was wondering if I am low on fluid . If during frame swap some fluid is lost ?

 

highly likely they lost trans fluid . Wouldnt hurt to check it .
If your are reading converter temps from your Ultra guage , you are reading temps at the hottest point within the transmission . If you read temps from the pan , you will get a colder reading because fluid goes through the cooling system and then returns to pan .
Doesnt really matter where you read the temps as long as you control the temps by aftercooling or stopping the truck in park and idling until the temps drop down

 

Ok . Will have fluid level checked . Thanks for your help

 

@gearcruncher I was down a half qt . Topped it off today .

 

What are the torque specs on the transmission filter? I want to drop my pan and replace my filter. 39 inch pounds for the pan bolts but not sure about the filter bolts.

 

Torque on transmission filter is 84in lbs (7ft lbs)
Torque on the pan bolts is 40-50in lbs. It is recommended to snug them all first in a star pattern then torque them in a star pattern too.

 

Thank you, sir!!!

 

I have started monitoring tranny temps with the Fusion app. With engine coolant, it warms up pretty quick to 187 or so and stays there very consistently. Tranny temps seem to get hotter the longer you drive. After about 30 mins I’m at 130 degrees. Got tranny up to 160 degrees while driving around 1.5 hours or so today. Is that normal for temps to just keep climbing? I have the tow package with tranny cooler.

 

@TheDevilYouLove pretty normal... I will refer you to this early post in this thread.

 

First off, I'd like to thank the guys who have posted in this thread. I've found better info here than anywhere else on the web. My concerns about the A750F are a little different, so I'm hoping what follows will benefit others as I continue to learn.

Bought my truck in November 2017. Didn't have any real complaints about the transmission at first. The shifting seemed soft and irregular at times, but I figured it was a design thing I'd have to get used to. About 6 months later I started to see a slight RPM surge as the tranny downshifted while coasting. I thought this was another design issue that I just hadn't noticed earlier. Then the weather got hot and I started to use my air conditioning every day. The RPM surging became much more pronounced. Part-throttle shifting was also more sluggish with the AC on. Adding to my discomfort, I encountered the lunge-from-a-stop problem others here have described.

The bigger RPM surges had me worried. Went to a reputable transmission shop for a diagnosis. Shop owner did a road test and scanned for codes while underway. No transmission codes found. In his opinion, the problem seemed slight and was most likely due to internal wear. I was advised that the tranny could last a long time like this and not to be overly concerned. A few days later I went to another shop for a second opinion. This shop owner, a former Toyota tech who left a dealership to run his own all-Toyota show, didn't replicate the RPM surge while behind the wheel. I took over driving and demonstrated the surge for him. He concluded that the transmission behavior was normal and recommended no action.

That was in late July. Since then, I've seen my tach needle ricochet wildly a few times while coasting. The full stop lunge has occurred about 4 times total over the summer months. These issues are always related to heavy AC use. In my opinion, this is not normal transmission behavior and action does need to be taken. That's how I ended up here.

Vehicle info:

2005 Sequoia 4x4 4.7L with 267K miles, mostly highway. No mods. This is my daily driver.
Maintenance records go back to 197K. Throttle body MAF meter and PCV cleaned at 198K. 5 quarts of WS ATF replaced at 236K, with T01030 transmission conditioner added to the ATF. These services were done by Toyota techs. Air conditioning serviced at 248K when the water pump and timing belt were replaced.

Based on what I've read here, I'm thinking a new OEM lockup control plunger valve and sleeve should be installed in the valve body. This would resolve the RPM surge problem. For better shifting I'd also install the mild RatioTek spring kit. I'll need a new filter and pan gasket, and I'd add a 10 oz. bottle of Lubeguard to the 6 or 7 quarts of WS or Aisin ATF required.

I don't have the time or space to do the work myself. The pros who test drove my truck didn't mention the valve body at all. No mention of shift kits. No mention of engine-related factors. Because of this I'll be asking the guys at a general repair shop if they'll install the parts. They're pretty good, but I don't know if they'd want a shift kit project. As long as there's no valve body reaming involved they might go for it.

I'm probably missing something. I've never owned a vehicle that's gone beyond 200K miles before so this is new territory for me.

 

hi there @Sawbill,
been lurking in this thread for a good while now.

Sounds like you're on the right track for the resolution for your problem. I myself have very similar symptoms with my Tacoma. it's now at 206k miles and although the symptoms with my Tacoma sound like they are milder than yours, mine are getting worse. In the meantime I've been driving in 4th and manually shifting to D which makes alot of the symptoms go away.

I too have bought the kits and been waiting to make the upgrade to the valve body. just haven't had time. did you also consider a new SLU soleniod or adjust/mod to your current solenoid? not sure if your year and model has the adjustment screw but the OP @gearcruncher may be able to chime in on that.

or I've even been considering if I get the extra funds. since the mileage is pretty high. opt into getting a rebuilt unit or low mileage used one and doing the upgrades to that transmission.

 

Hey guys , just a friendly tip for high mileage transmissions ..... Valve bodies are a serious wear point . Did you keep your trans fluid clean and regularly serviced ? This will place a huge factor on a satisfactory valve body rebuild . Dirty transmission fluid works like sand paper on alluminum parts .
Spend some time over at the Sonnax company . They have descriptions for each replacement valve , how it functions in the circuit and how to test if you should be replacing that particular valve .
https://www.sonnax.com/units/396-a750e

 

Hey Garrett,
Glad you jumped in. There are construction projects underway on most of the highways around here, so I'm doing a lot of stop-and-go driving on backroads. I'm using the O/D OFF button on my column shifter to treat the symptoms. Might not work as well as manually shifting, but it seems to help. The only thing that makes most of my troubles go away is turning the air conditioning off. The extra load seems to be strangling the tranny.

I've put a shift kit in a Turbo 350. I'm not afraid of valve bodies. But I have the same enemy you do: time. I haven't experienced the dreaded shudder yet, so I may not mess with the solenoids. I'm hoping the RatioTek springs, Lubeguard, and fresh ATF will get me ahead of it.

I've been told our engines and transmissions are about bulletproof--if we take care of them. There's a guy who brings his '05 to the same repair shop I mentioned in my last post. His OEM engine and tranny are at 304K miles, and he's just starting to upgrade. Might be too soon to throw in the towel on yours.