Starting to think about lift. Have some very basic questions.

Hi all. I bought a used 2016 DCSB TRD Off-Road last month, and I am starting to kick the ball around about a small lift. The truck is my only vehicle and it is my daily driver (drive 35 miles each way to work), so I am not looking to do anything too crazy. I was thinking of a lift somewhere around 2" or less. If you wouldn't mind helping me clear some things up I would be appreciative. I have been reading everything on here that I can and trying to learn. I am trying to keep things around $1,800-maybe $2,000. Install I can do myself.

My primary question is with the practicality of a lift for my situation. I don't plan on "going off roading" very often. Maybe a few times a year to some trails. Much more of what I do involves being off road while hunting, fishing, or camping. So my question with a 2" lift, and please correct me if I am wrong: The 2" lift raises the truck 2" but it does not increase the ground clearance of driveshaft/differentials. That can only be accomplished with larger tires? Right now I am on 265/70/16 (30.6") Falken Wildpeaks. It is my understanding that 265/75/16s (31.6") fit just fine. These tires are an inch higher, and would net me .5" higher ground clearance. I have also come to learn by poking around here that many people are going with 255/85/16s (33.1") which will fit with only removing the mud flaps (totally fine with me!). This tire is 2.5" higher netting a 1.25" increase in ground clearance.

Now I understand that a lift increases articulation of the suspension and could allow for a larger tire such as a 285/75/16 or larger if I changed UCAs and such. BUT, knowing how I will use the truck, gaining 1.25" of ground clearance with just a larger tire (255/85/16) for less than $1,000 sounds like a good compromise compared to a 2" lift while still requiring larger tires to attain an increase in ground clearance for the driveshafts. Is there more to it than this that I am simply not understanding?

If I did do a lift it seems like I am leaning towards either a full OME kit with a new Dakar leaf in the back, or simply doing the Bilstein 5100 up front with the stock springs and an AAL in the back. If I am correct both kits would give me 1.5-2" of lift?

I am not sure how accurate my understanding are, but I wanted to clarify any misunderstandings of mine before I spend more time researching based on falsehoods.

 

Review of them all and I also put my input in, like the 4th post. I gravitate toward Bilstein 6112/5160 cuz they’re just plain out Better in every way.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ome-or-bilstein-5100-or-bilstein-6112-5160.530071/

Main thread
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bilstein-6112.421995/

As far as UCAs, that’s up to you if you want them. I say get JBA or SPC UCAs to get Better alignment number and Tread life of your tires. Not all tires brands run the same so you need to go on the website and look at specs. Wheel specs play a huge part of a tire can fit, but for the most part 265/75-70 r16/17 will fit without rubbing. I ran 255/85r16 stock suspension, lifted without UCA, and lifted with UCAs never had an issue. Like I said I wheels specs and knows the actual tire size helps a lot.

Edit: I made he mistake going with a 3leaf aal with the overload OUT. My rear was sagging fast.... I have icon RXT option 3 right now with 6112 6/5 setting for a 2” lift

 

You have done well in your research. You are 1 in 1,000 that show up here wanting to 'throw on a lift' or a 'level lift'. Because looks.

Wheels are a big chunk of the equation, as you've likely learned too. So using the right wheels (likely an OE model) with those tires will gain clearance, leave your suspension totally stock, and visually fill the wheel wells a good bit as a tip 'o the hat to looks.

Based on your use description, that would be what I suggest.

Keep in mind that a 255 80 17 does the same thing. You *may* find a preferable tire choice in 17", and there are 17" OE wheels that will fill the fitment bill as well. And your current OE wheels may be just what some local gen 2 owner is looking for, allowing a little recoup on your funds.

 

Thank you! What do you mean by OE wheels? Is that OEM?

 

Yes. Original Equipment.

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer. And since Toyota doesn't actually make wheels (or a lot of other bits) OE is more accurate. And one less letter to type.

 

What are the downsides to the pizza cutters?

 

Ah, I see. Thank you. I just didn't want to assume and take things for granted. Thanks for the help. I keep going back in forth in my head about if I want to lift, or just go up in tire size. While I dig the looks of a lifted truck, I'm not sure if I can justify the money and potential for extra wear on components if I'm not gaining any (or much) performance.

Is it possible/advisable to do Bilstein 6112s all around with nothing else, or maybe that plus an AAL? W

 

I guess it depends on the vehicle use. Some terrain conditions might benefit from a wider tire. Maybe ball bearing sand or types of mud where width offers some 'float'.

Think about WWII Jeep tires. They certainly were not wide, but they worked fine.

IMHO most that avoid them do so based on looks. They like the fat tire look. Which is fine, but meaningless (to me) on a non performance vehicle.

 

I don't think pizza cutters will fit with my 0 offset wheels, but they seem to be a good option for ground clearance.

 

In my SCCA days I quickly learned that lifting/lowering works better done with proper spring rates/length that just a perch choice on a shock body. Then select a shock that properly dampens that spring rate.

Many will be along to kick me for saying that, telling all about how preload doesn't hurt anything. Fine. I'm just not an advocate of getting there that way.

I just have a poor mans 5 lug and no need for a lift for either function or style. I just went with the tallest tire that would clear everything and picked up 1" of ground clearance, plenty for 99% of my use with trails to launch my kayaks w/o sacrificing much of anything.

If you really want to go down the lift path, let's see if @geekhouse23 wants to play. And a call to Marie @HeadStrong Off-Road is always a good thing to do as well.

 

They are only available in Load Range E. (I guess this can be viewed as a plus or negative)

 

Do you really NEED more ground clearance? Stock TRD Off-Road does pretty darn good already as long as you have decent tires. I don't know your terrain of choice, but around here hunting/fishing/camping doesn't usually require more than 2wd.

 

Downside is based on looks depending on your preference of stance. 255 will get you anywhere you want. 255 top, bottom 285

You can run 6112s up front alone as many want to level the truck. 2” lift you gonna need an AAL or something outback for some rake. 5160 is just a 5100 with a resi out back. It really does help Cool you shock.
https://youtu.be/J2B-5WhKni0

 

NEED is a strong word. I definitely wouldn't say I need more anything. I know how capable the truck is. In fact most of my hunting locations I'd be totally fine accessing with my wife's Honda CRV. But I'm the type of guy who likes to improve what can be improved upon and I like to tinker and play around with my toys.

My Falken Wildpeaks seem pretty capable to me so far. I bought the truck used and the previous owner put them on but they look almost brand new. It would appear that bigger tires might be my choice for the foreseeable future.

As a teenager my dad bought a 2007 Tundra that 17 year old me always to lift. He, being a lifelong career mechanic always hated the idea for various reasons. I can't say I'm against lifting my truck now, because a part of me really wants to. I'm just not sure if I can justify a need for it now. But who knows. I'm still early in my learning and I might be singing a different tune come the end of the week.

 

Your truck looks great! What tire size is that? How much lift is that and how was it attained?

 

You must have missed post #2 lol

I’ll say it again billy 6112 6/5 setting 2” lift with 650lb eibach springs and JBA UCAs. Rear is 3” lift with with icon RXt leaf pack with billy 5160s.

Current Tire is 285/75r16 toyo RTs. The tires up top is 255/85r16 cooper st maxx

 

Those do not look THAT different.

 

Pictures can be misleading. The toyo are much wider trust me. Plus in the st maxx pic I was aired down to 18psi.

 

Don't forget about your approach, breakover, and departure angles. I went to 265/75r16 with the Bilstein 6112 and SPC UCAs up front and 5160 and AAL in the back. I got about 3 inches all the way around, plus the 0.5 inch increase in clearance. I can clear objects close to 10 inches high, and can clear much taller objects if I'm putting the tire over it (because of the increased angles).

My only difference in needs was I wanted off road capability as well... I landed on the set up as described and I love it.

 

Thanks for the help everyone. I am still on the fence about lifting or not, but thats okay because I don't have plans to do it until the spring at this point anyway. So for arguments sake, lets assume I did want to do a modest lift of 2". Lift or no lift I am definitely going to be upgrading my skids. At some point I'd like to maybe add a winch and a bumper too, but that isn't high on my list for the time being. So with that extra weight (at least with the skids) in mind I have some questions:

• First, regardless of the lift I choose, can I set it up for the extra anticipated weight and run the truck like that with no added weight for a while? I realize the lift will likely be higher until the weight is added, but is there any reason not to add components in this order (lift first then extra weight)?
• This Bilstein 5100 kit seems to be popular and the cheapest. With it I would do the Deaver AAL. I would think the 885s would not be enough if I added any weight. Would I do the 887 coils with an advertised lift of 2.25" or would I want the 888s with the anticipated weight added? Could I get away without adding UCAs with this setup?
• Next up in price is the OME kit. Would I do 886 coils? Need UCAs? Could I get away with the medium duty leaf pack if I run the extra weight up front?
• Last kit I'm looking at is this Bilstein 6112 kit. It seems this kit is highly recommended from the buy once cry once camp, even thought it isn't all that expensive. I am leaning towards this kit as I think it is a good compromise of price and performance. Would I need to add UCAs to this kit?
• With any of these kits is there anything I would need to add or can I get away with the one purchase and then get an alignment after a few hundred miles and be good?
• I keep asking about adding UCAs. While I realize they're recommended could I get away with not adding them, trying for an alignment and then adding them if I need them? Although it seems like the only benefit to not adding them is saving some money which I'd much rather spend the money and avoid the headache.
• Any other kits/components I should be aware of in this price range?

Can't thank everyone enough for the help. If nothing else I am gaining a ton of education from asking these questions!