Front Axle Removal HELP

How the heck do I remove the front axles from the diff housing?

I think I have a bad needle bearing. I'm trying to replace it with the bushing. I have all the parts and the removal tool; I already removed the hub and knuckle, and I just need to pull the axle half-shaft assembly from the front diff.

First I tried yanking it out with a slide hammer, pulling against one of the inboard shoulder lobes. Then I tried hammering it forward with a prybar, first against another of the inboard lobes, then against a more pronounced (but apparently flimsy) outboard shoulder where the boot attaches. Then I tried prying it out, levering against the remaining non-marred inner lobe shoulder with a 36" pry bar. A 1x2 pine spacer provided a perfect 3" fulcrum point, bearing against one of the factory diff bolts:



When I threw my weight against it, the 1x2 split in half, then my prybar cammed out. Now all three axle lobes are dull, the inboard boot and axle seals are both completely fuc&ed, and I wish the goddamn sun would just explode.

I have easily applied over 1000 lbs of axial force to this axle, and my blood pressure is probably off the charts. What the heck does it take to remove this axle???

 

Maybe try this?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-cv-axle-removal-tips-tricks-advice.318838/

 

This should tell you how to get the axle out
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.189356/

 

See this post down towards the end with the slide hammer:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.189356/

 

Thanks guys, I've read most of these but the last one mentioned NOT being in 4WD. I'll go try setting it loose on its feet again, then lifting up in 2WD, to see if I can pull this stupid axle off finally.

At this point I'd try dynamite if I had it.

 

Why is it in 4wd?

 

So I could wrench off the axle nut! Worked great on the passenger side.

Doesn't seem to matter, I just split another 1x2 prying at it in 2WD. This is beyond human strength.

 

It's in 2WD and I can spin either axle as much as I want. It doesn't matter.

I took a come-along and pulled the whole truck off its jackstands, sideways and uphill, just by this bullshit front axle.

It's still stuck. If the world exploded tomorrow, it'd be two days too late.

 

I don't think it is a "Pulling Force" that you need. You need and "Impact Force" like a slide hammer or other tool that would impart a high intensity force.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ5JSWu6mTE

 

These are hard to get out because of the style of clip Toyota uses. If you read the threads, there is supposedly a "magic" clip position- rotate the axle if it doesn't come out and try again. I tried this and didn't have any luck. I used a piece of steel stock, .25 x 1 x ~12" long and had to beat the crap out of the inner CV using it and a hammer. I had no luck with a pry bar.

 

if you rotate it a little and pry rotate and pry it will get to the sweet spot and pop right out. Like you I used to beat snatch and pull until i figured it out. Made me feel foolish.

 

You guys were right. There is a sweet spot for the axle where it will pop out with a regular hammer. I went into 2WD and jacked up the opposite tire to be able to rotate the axle (pretty sure either works but I did both), then tried several more times.

I did beat the living hell out of that axle though, so now I feel foolish for how easily it finally popped out. Hopefully I can just reboot it and replace the seals.

Thank you guys!

 

Smack that lip on that 4 inch metal chunk and it comes out pretty quick

 

Also getting it back in it can not be hammered. I sounds stupid but it works. Grab the threaded end and use a jerk off motion to smack itself in. Sounds stupid but works easy. You can hit it with a hammer all day long and it wont work

 

Thanks!

Just to make sure I understand this jerk-off procedure... I will be using the inertia of the axle shaft and the outboard CV assembly to hammer against the inboard CV spline?

 

Also, as a follow up rant:

The ECGS tool completely sucks. Do not give them money for this bullshit tool.

I just wasted another hour of my life grinding my brand-new ECGS tool, just to get it to work.



This was not a minor touch-up adjustment. I easily removed over 1/8" from the OD of this tool, and still had to beat the shit out of it to fit it behind the needle bearing. Now it's too late to hammer in the new bushing and get this truck back on the road for tomorrow. Another day lost, this time due to an insanely overpriced single-use tool that is inexplicably, utterly incapable of performing its sole purpose.

They may as well have sent me a block of steel and a file.

Unbelievable.

 

Seeing how I haven’t changed my bearing yet. But likely will one day.
Would a Blind Hole Bearing Puller work in this case?

 

It's better than the old method of cramming a bag in the diff and putting the threaded metal and try to start it before it slips into the diff

 

I'm not sure, but I think so. There just isn't much to grab onto behind the bearing. The slide hammer I rented had a 3-jaw puller assembly that could fit in there, but I would probably have needed to sharpen the jaws to really dig into the back lip of the bearing. However, I don't think you could ever hammer it out, it's really snug. So you would need a way to crank on it with a threaded rod against the diff housing. (I only used the slide hammer to pull the oil seal.)

Honestly if you have basic tools in your garage I would suggest making your own puller vs. buying ECGS. Get a piece of maybe 1/4" x 3/4" steel, cut it to just over 1.5" long, drill and tap the middle, then grind it until it just slides past the bearing. You don't need the shoulder in the middle. ECGS uses a wider rod, but 3/8 threaded rod should do the job if you oil the threads. You can use a flat 3-hole unistrut bracket for the outer piece, nothing special there, and just a nut and washer on the outside. I have used 3/8" rod and unistrut stuff to press at least a dozen control arm bushings over the years.

So yes, if you have a tap and drill, a hacksaw, and a grinder, then you can make your own tool for $10 worth of hardware store parts, or if you're like me, just from stuff already cluttering your garage. And it won't take you any more time than buying the ECGS tool, since that needs to be ground to size anyway!

 

Yes it does! I couldn't justify that much for a single use tool, so i bought a set on Amazon for not much more.