Ontario BS Thread

I bet it sounds 1000 times better than 8-track if you can keep it from skipping.

 

Yep same Chinese compressor as the Smittybilt, at a lower price than even AliExpress: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32854304492.html ($266 with shipping)

 

found the link for the gracenote update but dated 2018, so no update really.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/visteon/public-gracenote/Gracenote_NA_June2018.up

 

Most automotive locksmith places will do it cheaper than the dealer...
Or better yet if you have an old laptop you can install a bootleg techstream and a $20 Tactrix clone cable off Amazon and program it yourself (+ change settings on your truck, read codes/history)

Techstream 14.2 download link; thanks to tonerd;

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rHumlcFInkXdfAGgap0XS0KijFZumfSA/view

You could also use the Lexus credit card keys....

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lexus-credit-card-key-working-in-tacoma.445979/

I've programmed keys for my non-push-start truck, there are two different systems to program, the radio remote for lock unlock and the ignition interlock that is read from the rfid chip.

Did they say which part did not program?

On the fob there should be ID #'s for the type.. I.e. HYQ14CBB or HYQ14FBA or toyota part#'s, do they match between the two sets?

If your around Hamilton we can meet up and I can hook techstream up with a laptop but it would be the same equipment that the dealer used so odds may not be good.

This link has some useful info;

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-program-your-own-smart-key-fob.555673/

This post may be what is happening to your dealer...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...own-smart-key-fob.555673/page-3#post-21472085

After some more digging on your key's info...

More Information:

• Toyota Part Numbers: 89904-60J70, 89904-0E092, 89904-0E091, 89904-0E090
• FCC ID: HYQ14FBA
• IC: 1551A-14FBA
• AG Board, 2110 PCB
• Frequency: 315 MHz
• Battery: CR2032
• Emergency insert key same as: 69515-33100, 6951533100
• Reusable (note for car locksmiths and dealers): Used remotes are reusable after unlocking / re-flashing service
• On Board Programming: No
• 3 Buttons: Lock, Unlock, Panic alarm

Let me see if I can figure out/find, how to "unlock" a used key....

• This remote also fits:
  
  20 21 Toyota 4Runner
  17 18 19 Toyota Highlander
  16 17 Toyota Land Cruiser
  15 16 17 18 19 20 Toyota Tacoma
  19 20 21 Toyota Tundra
  19 20 Toyota Sequoia
  
  

 

What else can you do with this wizardry?

 

Dont make me go downstairs and take a pic of my 60s short wave

 

With Techstream?

Since your a '17 you can do things like turn off the seat belt chimes, # of times the turn signal blinks.. read ALL the live data from the truck and any stored codes that have not set off any lights.

Your truck also stores every time the remote was used to lock or unlock the truck, pressed the panic button on the remote,
every time the Traction or stability control systems activated (and it then stores a 10 second live data of everything from individual wheel speed, gear position, throttle position, g-forces, brake pressure etc at time of the event).
Every time you stomped on the gas or the brakes....



The 2020's keep a SCARY amount of data, as in tied to GPS street info with Camera and Microphone.

You can also update the trucks firmware (highly recommended especially for the automatics).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecu-tsb-update.562550/

 

I thought you were gonna say " Dont make me go downstairs and take a pic of my Elvis 8-Track collection"

 

Is this a service you offer? Can it update speedometer for wheelsize changes?

 

so i can just update the ECU to be the 2020's mapping?

that's worth a shot lol

also why didn't you wave back and stare at me like i was some crazy guy in your rear view mirror....

 

Have not hear of anyone doing speedo changes with techstream.

VFtuner though, lets you change a LOT more things....

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vf-tuner-for-the-3-5l-tacoma.662948/

 

So when I had my rear brake failure, and my brake system went dry. This seems to have caused my ABS pump or system to get some air trapped in it.

Anyone know if we can bleed the ABS system or it requires taking to a shop with the $2500 scanner?

We bled the brakes fully, twice and it still has the same issue.

If I pump the brakes say 10 times the system goes into 'you have no brakes' mode for less than 30 seconds. Then the dash lights go away and it goes back to normal. ABS pump seems to run every time I push hard on the brakes. I am sure there is air trapped in the ABS system somewhere.


*Edit*
Jeremiah says we are going to try one more thing before I take it to a shop. Bleed the master cylinder.

Wrong booster for my truck vaccum
http://www.ttguide.net/replacement-476.html

Correct hydraulic booster procedure
http://www.ttguide.net/brake_fluid_for_hydraulic_brake_booster_-473.html

 

Yes you can update your software to the same mapping the latest 2020's have...
it's still not as good at the tune packs from VF Tuner from 800-2200 rpm for torque
but makes the Auto a lot more livable especially going up long grades on a windy day.

The latest also fixes an issue with int intake runner flap servo and the throttle body servo.
Changes the fuel mappings from 2200 to 4000 rpm
(more torque, I notice it when accelerating and passing in 6th gear on the highway, oh sorry you AT guys can't do that)
The 3400rpm "transition" is much smoother.

I haven't done a firmware update on my truck because I have a cheap knockoff cable and I've heard of reports of people bricking their ECU's when flashing...
haven't spent the time to read those links before I try to see what they were using...
it's not a bluetooth one, it's the full hardwired cable and so far has seemed 100% reliable.
We can try it on your truck.
I just had the dealer do a "Healthcheck" on my truck at the last visit and the latest firmware was listed so I didn't need to do it myself.
Not sure why Toyota dealers don't automatically update the vehicle firmware on service checks,
even when it comes up on a Healthcheck most of the time they will only do it if a customer has a complaint that sounds like a specific TSB, if you push them.
VW dealer does it for free on the wife's annual visits for an oil change.

Whaa I waved!
No tint in the front windows so I figured you could see me as I went through the intersection,
Saw a Cement Tacoma and was leaning over to see if I could see the front bumper to see if it was you as I went into the intersection.
Lol a couple other Cements around town so I look for the bumper or the rack before I start flapping the arms about in the cab.
Saw you turn into Staples, figured you were getting some more liquid paper for the CAD system.
Thought about turning around and stalking you in the parking lot... again,
but my bladder was reminding me about the extra large coffee I finished earlier....

 

http://www.ttguide.net/brake_fluid_for_hydraulic_brake_booster_-473.html

Techstream is used to bleed the master cylinder...

Tactrix Clone cable from Amazon for $20 and a laptop and you can do it yourself... clone cables from amazon even come with V12 of Techstream cracked which works fine upto 2018 so then all you will then need is a computer or laptop with a usb port and windows...

There are OBDII readers with the ABS functions to cycle the TRAC Solenoid (SRMF & SRMR) also but will cost a couple hundred $$.
Your local Parts Source or Autozone my loan/rent one out for a day also...

 

How did you bleed the system?

Pump pump release?

with our brake booster system all you need is to hold brake pedal without pumping and release air while making sure you top up brake reservoir.
I’ve changed 3 times my calipers and did rear and it worked every time

 

But did you run the system dry at any point?

That was what happened to me. It ran dry.

 

Thanks @daks you are correct. This is the link I needed. I was looking at the vacuum booster procedure. Wrong one.

 

Did you loose all the fluid in the reservoir at some point or just didn't add fluid when you were bleeding? Pedal feels firm?

If I pump my brakes very fast multiple times my abs and all computers shut down for few seconds, food for thoughts...

 

Yes I lost all the fluid while I was at a traffic light on the highway on my way to work.

It had 0 fluid by the time I managed to get it the 1km to work. In 1st gear, being super scared I was going to crash with no brakes.


My ABS pump runs if I push the pedal hard, and I can feel what seems like bubbles or air. It does not feel like it did before. My ABS pump did not run when I pushed my brake pedal hard before.

Pretty sure I need to run through the master cylinder bleed procedure. See if I can find the right tool for rent in North Bay.