X2 Power/Northstar Group 31 AGM Battery install on CBI Tray (3rd gen, picture heavy)

I recently purchased the X2 Power's Group 31 AGM battery, and here's my experience installing it in the 3rd gen Tacoma. The starter cranks much faster now, but the main reason for doing this was for reserve battery capacity. There are reports of long-term battery use cracking the sheet metal (as seen here), but I decided to take the risk, even though my OEM battery is still under warranty and still holds a charge. I have an idea for a bracket to transfer some of the weight to the frame, but more on that later. Note: OEM suspension is not recommended to carry the extra weight of this battery. I personally have Dobinsons 252 coils up front.

• X2 Power battery found over here (in-person pickup with 10% off and $30 rebate (verify) = $422, using HONEY will also net $36.35 cashback),
• Alternatively, the Odyssey Group 31 battery can be found
  $522 ODYSSEY 31-PC2150S Heavy Duty Commercial Battery
  here,
• CBI Battery tray found here (free shipping),
• eBay heavy duty 10" J-hooks found here,
• Oil Filler Tube found here,
• KDMax 6.0 wifeytip tune with AGM voltage settings found over here.

-Comparison between the two batteries (40.5 lbs):

• OEM Group 24 Lead Acid Battery: 42 lbs (with OEM tray and battery holddown), 582 Cold Cranking Amps, 125 Minutes Reserve Capacity.
• X2 Power Group 31 AGM battery: 82.5 lbs (including CBI battery tray and 3/8" J-hooks), 1,150 Cold Cranking Amps, 220 Minutes Reserve Capacity.

-Model number:



-Swap out the filler neck as seen here to make room for the bigger battery. The OEM neck is close to the Group 31 battery, and known to break if the battery hits it while wheeling:





-Remove the OEM battery and tray and lengthen the positive wire. Open the plastic box that houses the wires by prying the clips to release the lid. Cut any zip ties, and re-route the positive wire behind the negative wire. I used a small round file to cut a hole in the plastic box for the positive wire (see hole at red arrow in picture below). Pull the wire through the hole, and re-clip the lid. Secure with zip ties for good measure. I also reconfigured the white wires on the right side to make room for the CBI tray to clear (see right arrow):

-Small round file bit for hole:





-Cut the J-hook on the fuse box side of the battery. The J-hook will end up around 7-3/4". Paint the J-hooks to your liking. I used self-etching primer and flat black BBQ paint. Most folks will settle for longer OEM thick J-hooks (10"), but I personally went with "thicker" 3/8" J-hooks, after confirming they work in the slots (ebay link above):






-Prepare the CBI battery tray. Drill-out the holes in the top "CBI" piece, so the 3/8" J-bolts fit through it. Optional "backing" for the top CBI piece, if you're OCD like me. I used an inner layer of painters tape applied upside down, and then covered it with an additional layer of tape.
-Add some rubber strips to keep the battery from moving around (again, optional). The rubber strips were leftover from the

$28 ESI Ultimate Tailgate Seal with Taper Seal 10ft for use with Truck Caps and Tonneau Covers

tailgate seal added to the bottom of the cab doors.
-The tray wasn't quite level, so I added some rubber keep it from rocking (see "upper-right" red arrow).
-I zip tied the A/C hoses, so they didn't rub on the CBI tray (see "bottom left" red arrows):








-Bolt down the battery and re-wire the battery using hand tools, so you don't overtighten the bolts. Check for movement by shifting the battery back and forth, as you don't want any movement. \
-Start with the positive wires, and work your way over to the negative wires last. Be sure to keep everything "clean", including, not crossing wires (if possible), no rubbing on anything, zip tie everything for good measure, secure the rubber cap over the positive terminal. See pics below for final product:



-Note the purchase date on the battery:





-Flash the truck with your favorite AGM map using VFTuner software to get the correct alternator charging current of 14.4v-14.8v. Some folks think this step is unnecessary, but I personally flashed my truck with the KDMax 6.0, 4:88, Regular, WifeTip, AGM. @PapaRee

• There's a good "battery upgrade" write-up on Trail Tacoma over at: trailtacoma com/2020/05/21/cbi-offroad-battery-tray-install-2nd-3rd-gen-tacoma/. (add the DOT after trailtacoma)
• @crashnburn80 's AGM info thread can be found over here.
• VFTuner AGM charging thread can be found here.

Thanks for watching! Please bump the thread if you find it useful.

 

Nice write up!

 

Sweet! A lotta work for that big boy. What's in the pelican case?


I'm surprised you OCD isn't freaking out about the sticky side of the tape haha.

 

Thank you!

Pelican case has the air hose, etc. More on it here.





I applied an inside layer of the painter's tape "upside down" first, so it's not sticky.

 

Smart feller! That case is super sweet!

 

That case is super handy, but it's somewhat tough to open! I'm now searching for a smaller 10' coil-style hose for my rear air chuck attachment that I can keep in the bed cubbyhole

 

What were you design goals/intentions for the desire for extra reserve capacity?

I've thought about this a bit and I think the idea of a completely independent battery/system for camping with solar panel to charge appeals to me more than big battery in the truck itself. And a large alternator has some big appeal too, though if gas prices increase significantly then the thought of using a v6 as a generator starts to seem dumber and dumber.

I have an optima in mine, without the plastic, it's not light, it's shorter than OEM, and it holds nice and firm. So far so good but I haven't done anything useful with it other than start the truck.

How much faster is the starter? 1/2 a second?

 

With the

$76 Blue Sea Systems 7635 m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect

m-LVD disconnect, it was super easy to trigger the disconnect after using any accessories for a short time. I went with the X2 Group 31 battery, so I can run my lights and radio longer without triggering the LVD. I'd say the starter is at least a1/2" second faster now with the 1,150 CCA.

 

Awesome write up. I didn't know you could flash it to change the charge! Thanks for the links. I also ordered a new cbi cage!
I understand from further reading that the NorthStar battery is the same as the X2. I'm guessing it's the same weight too because it is friggin heavy as heck!!!!!! lol

 

Lean to the left
And lean to the left
Let me see your taco lean!

Notice any difference in turning feel? I noticed the extra weight of a bumper (about +80lbs) a lot on stock suspension.

 

I'm going to say there's a slight difference in turn-in feel on the driver's side, but the benefits of having a bigger battery are worth it. I've edited the original post mentioning that this is not recommended for OEM suspension, and I've listed the aftermarket coils that I have.

 

Solid install and write-up. Thank you for taking the time to document your work. Will be using this as a reference.

 

Thanks! The battery is rock solid! Make sure to post up if you do end up doing the install! GL!

Here's where I ended up putting the LVD switch:



I also have a trickle charger:

And I carry this

$50 NEXPOW Portable Jump Starter,12V Car Battery Jump Starter Power Pack with USB Quick Charge (Up to 7L Gas or 5.5L Diesel Engine) Battery Booster with Built-in LED Light

powerful jump starter It started my buddies Sprinter Van after a few tries when he was stranded in the ski resort parking lot.