(Request) Electronics for Dummies

Hey all!
I'm assuming this is common knowledge for you mod masters....but I have no clue...

At what point do you upgrade your fusebox/ anything else to support electronic mods?

Specifically things that I'd like to hardwire are:

• A dashcam (currently always on when the car is on through cigarette lighter, thinking of hardwiring it)
• I also want to hardwire some LED lights/ add a push switch
• Have BestBuy add a Compustar/Drone Mobile soon.

It's greek to me and I don't want to fry anything. Thanks in advance!

 

74 pages of fuse panels can be found over here. Also, you can ask Ken over here.

 

Thank you, I appreciate it!

 

There's some posts on the dashcam here including an adapter

$33 Dongar Dashcam Power Adapter (12-pin for '15-'23 Toyota Tacoma. Also Compatible with Select Sienna, Honda, and More), Connects to Rearview Mirror, Built-in USB Power Source, Easy to Install

here.
What type of LED lights? Inside? Outside? Bed? Checkout here @mattgecko
For the remote start, I went with the N2Designs as seen here. Remote start can be found here and the TW Mega thread can be found here. Use N2TWFREESHIP for free shipping. @N2DesignsInc

Also, for basic questions, you'll get a ton of answers if you ask them in the "What have you done" thread over here. GL!

 

So far your really only talking about adding 1 circuit directly to the battery.

1st step for considering an additional fuse box is to get an idea of how big the new box needs to be. Some of these mods get really expensive. You want to get the size right the first time if possible.

 

IMO...one of the best pieces of kit out there:

Power Distribution Module (shrockworks.com)

Leads are long enough to get just about anywhere in the Tacoma
Keeps everything nice and neat

 

Solid state relays > mechanical

 

That's good advice, I'll keep that in mind for sure.
I guess my actual question is "Installing only these 3 things, do I need to upgrade any currently stock electrical to handle it?"

 

Simple answer is NO

1 Set of lights will just be 1 addition to the battery.
The Dash Cam and Compustar will be integrated into existing circuits.

 

The components that you plan on installing are relatively low draw so my opinion is that you don’t necessarily “need” to upgrade your electrical system or add a secondary fuse block. I run my dashcam off an add-a-fuse from the main fuse block under the dash and the led lights can be run using a stand alone harness with a relay. That will be the easiest way to install those two things.
My personal experience with Best Buy installations is that they aren’t going to try and figure out your added wiring and will install things the easiest way they can- usually with included harnesses or tapping into factory wiring.

That being said, the benefit of upgrading your electrical system with a secondary fuse block could potentially benefit you in the long run because it will allow you to easily add more components later if you choose and you’ll avoid the bird’s nest of wiring associated with clumsy installs piled on top of each other.

If you have questions let me know. IIRC, you’re relatively close by so I can even help with the install if you need it.

 

I wouldn't touch it. Something isn't quite right about that thing. They advertise (5 - 30A circuits and 5 - 15 amp circuits). But looks like there main power wire is only a #10. ?????

 

Careful with the drone mobile. It draws power constantly. Not a lot but enough that it can kill your battery

 

I would guess that the all do. I've been interested in the Drone Mobile also. I just like the look of their APP.

 

???

5 - 30 amp switched(with fuse)
5 - 30 amp max fused only

Power running into the Bussman is your choice - everything inside the Bussman runs off a buss bar - both + and -

10' leads coming out of the Bussman for your circuits and switches.

Been running one for near 7 years with zero issues.

 

I've had The Drone in my FJ since '13. The FJ used to sit for 3 weeks while I travelled and the battery never ran dry. You can also set alert for low battery as well. IMO with all the features available through the app it is very well thought out.

 

If you have a local mobile audio/security shop, I would go that route over BestBuy. Also it's convenient to add the Dashcam hardwire, install a switch, relay and fused hardwire to the battery for LED lights when the installer is installing the remote start.

 

That makes a little more sense.

I was looking at the pic that showed a #10 GROUND and assumed that it was part of the FEEDER. Guess I assumed wrong.

 

The bracket they offer also has a mounting location for a circuit breaker. Neat and tidy.

 

It can also be fun and educational to build your own

 

For the LED lights, I would run a fused wire straight to the battery, piggy-backing on existing fuses in the panel could melt panel wires if the load is too much. A dashcam is fine for a piggy-back, so is the trigger for a relay, but I wouldn't source a lightbar/aux lights from it.