Inconsistent Cabin Air Output

Are you referring to the connector that plugs into the blower? That looked perfectly normal to me. As for the actuators I’m not sure where all of those are located. Behind the glove box? And can those cause issues if I’m not even using them? I keep mine set to the dashboard vents so they’d have to be opening and closing on their own.

I also changed the blower motor again just to see if the other one I put in was defective in some way. No dice.

 

Im referring to the connector at the blower switch (the knob where you change speeds).

I don't know about Toyota trucks (really don't work on them too often where I work) but on many other vehicles (GM especially) the actuators will sometimes get a mind of their own when they start to go bad and just randomly change positions at times with no user input.

Actuator servo locations below (thanks to @Jimmyh for the picture), all 3 are on the passenger side. If you wanted to rule them out you could just leave them unplugged one at a time when it's working so they can't move and see if your problem still occurs.

 

Just a heads up, those vents are related to the performance of your airbags. If you plug them up, the pressure created by your airbags going off inside the cabin without the windows open may have some serious unintended “side effects”. You may end up blowing out your eardrums or something else due to the instantaneous change in pressure.

 

Haven’t read a confirmation that you opened up the cowl area between the engine compartment and windshield. It can get fouled with leaves etc. and rodents find the spot attractive. One screw clip on each end and metal clips along under the rubber gasket. A minute or two to check the space out.

 

Yes I have checked that and it’s completely clear. No debris.

I will check the three actuators if I can get to them. From the schematic above it looks like they’re not very accessible, but maybe I’m wrong?

 

The mode and temp are right under the glove box and the recirculation is behind, they are really easy to unplug, I did the wiring mods on mine so I can have recirc anytime and A/C not on with defrost.

 

Is there a write up for that? I would love to have this mod.

 

I'll have to try to find it, there was a year split where the procedure changed but it works the same. It's very simple to do though.

 

Here it is for 09-15 and 05-09 to have the temp knob on full cold without the recirc and A/C coming on is the same procedure only it's the Brown/White wire on the temperature acuator.
I de-pinned mine and stuck it in next to the pink wire and secured with a small zip tie instead of cutting and splicing, had it like that for over 2 years already and no issues.

 

Thank you kindly!

I'll look into this when I get the chance.

 

Got it. The recirc motor and door seem to be working fine, it opens and closes smoothly. I guess it could be one of the other two. I'm running out of possibilities at this point - at least for cheap fixes.

Can the mode and temp motors be replaced without pulling the dash? I know the dealer charges for a dash pull on this repair.

Also, this is awesome and I'll be doing this once my issue is resolved!

 

I'm pretty sure they can be changed without pulling the dash, labor guide shows 1.8 hrs each.

 

Decided I'm going to replace the two lower servo motors. After more research I'm confident one of the two is the problem. I'll replace both and (hopefully) be done with it. Yes, I know that I probably don't need to replace both and I'm just spending more unnecessary money, but I'm fed up. I can justify it by knowing that a shop would have charged me more than I've spent total on all parts just to replace one of these parts (right? )

I want to make sure I've located the correct part numbers. I'm finding a lot of different part numbers that say they'll fit and photos of the parts aren't consistent. From what I've gathered I think that BLUE temp servo is 87106-04050 and GREEN mode servo is 87106-04060. Confirmation is appreciated. Thank you all for your help thus far.

 

Just documenting for future wonderers. I confirmed the correct part numbers with my local dealer.

87106-04040 (air inlet/recirc/air mix 2) - circled in red
87106-04050 (mode) - circled in green
87106-04060 (air mix/temp) - circled in blue

Parts are on order and I'll report back on whether the issue is resolved.

 

Hmm, that’s actually on par for pulling/replacing the dash panels including the center console plus about 20 minutes to swap the servo.

 

So I can confirm that the dash does not need to be removed to get to the servos. Just the glove box and the piece of ducting that goes to the passenger floorboard.

However, I am puzzled, and I’m hoping it’s just something stupid that I’m missing here. Installed the new temp servo and began testing its functionality. Noticed that the temperature settings were backwards. Turning the knob to the right (hotter) made the air cooler and vice versa. So I removed it, plugged the old one back in, and noticed that the old motor was turning the opposite direction of the new motor.

What am I missing here? Video below to help explain.

 

I think you have an older model servo I know that at some point they reversed the controls so that you would see this result and the fix was to reverse two wires in the controller panel connector. I'll see if I can find the link.

 

It seems you have a servo drive for an older Tacoma as in late 2011 or 2012 they changed the polarity of the control circuit. For the life of me I cannot find the thread that spells out what wires need to be swapped.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hot-and-cold-backwards.188605/

 

Here is the link to the fix. It sounds like a big pain in the ass. I would rather take the servo back and get the correct one.

See Post # 24.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ng-and-cold-when-on-hot-setting.292370/page-2

Thanks to @db2

The solution to this is as follows:

1. Take apart the A/C Control panel, and isolate the circuit board.
2. On the back side of the board you will find 3 pins coming from the Potentiometer (Control Knob)
3. You will see 3 leads coming from the Control Knob. To get the correct orientation, rotate the board until the lead with the thickest "trace" is at the top (12:00) position, and the bottom lead is a "trace" that leads to a resistor. (note: on the graphic, you will not see the control knob as it is on the opposite side of the circuit board)
4. With a razor blade, cut through the top 2 leads (Do not cut the bottom lead). This will disconnect the control knob from the circuit.
5. With a razor blade, lightly scrape the "trace" of the top 2 leads to expose a small section of copper "trace". Then meter between the exposed "trace" and the lead from the corresponding control knob lead and make sure there is no connection. If you still have a connection, you need to cut deeper in step 4.
6. Add a bit of solder to each of the exposed copper "traces" and cut two small wires and tin the ends with solder. Solder one wire to to one of the Control Knob leads, and to the opposite trace at the exposed copper trace. Repeat with the other Control Knob lead, and opposite trace.
7. Meter between the Control Knob Lead and another point along the trace to make sure your solder connections are solid.
8. Reassemble the A/C Controller and enjoy proper Cold/Hot Settings

 

Could you have the vents to release the pressure in the cabin plugged ( I think it’s behind the back seat ) and not letting air out , causing positive pressure and no realease of air . Someone else in a earlier post got into that . If air doesn’t escape , it will pressurize and not let anymore in , till you lower a window .