Key & fob combined

All I can tell you is look at the back of your factory fob. There should be a code like: GQ43VT20T as an example. Make sure whatever key/fob combination you buy is for cars/trucks that use that same number. I think that number is also described as the FCC code that describes the frequency the fob circuit transmits on which needs to match the receiver on the car/truck, otherwise, it won't work.

And just in case you don't know, just having the right fob code/frequency is not all, you need to add the new fob to the cars' programming by performing the programming steps that are detailed on this site in a different post. just search key fob programming. for my 2011, it involved inserting the key into the ignition and removing, opening and closing doors..multiple times..a real crazy process. Your year model probably has a different series of steps to perform

 

Thanks for this info. I did find a 3 button remote head on eBay that has the matching FCC code, and ordered that, so we'll see how that works out. The one I ordered is https://www.ebay.com/itm/403082102448 And, yes, I found the other thread on opening and closing doors to pair the new remote with my truck, which is how I determined the first key wasn't compatible.

And if it helps anyone else, the back of my key remote looks like this:

 

Looking to do this to my 05 soon. Anyone have issues with the older 2nd Gens and the “engine immobilizer”? Ive heard that the older ones the blinking “immobilizer” light is mostly for show. Hoping I can get one of these, get the key cut, and program the remote with no issues.

 

My 5 lug '14 SR5 access cab doesn't have an immobilizer. I can take a key to copy in to a local locksmith, they cut the blank, I put it and turn the ignition and my Tacoma starts

 

And bingo! We have a winner! This came in the mail today, and took maybe a minute to program to my truck. The key blank looks correct and slides all the way in to the ignition, so I assume once I get it cut at a locksmith I'll be good to go. The back side of the key head doesn't have any FCC ID, it's just totally smooth. But the trick to making it work is the buy the key fob with the matching FCC ID

 

Ive been trying to find a process to do this for ages!!!

Ive been wanting an all in one key attached to my SureFire sidekick rather than a key and fob.

 

I had to buy a 4 button (lock, unlock, panic and trunk) all in one key that had the matching FCC ID and was able to be programmed to a key with the “dot” code (not G). I think it was for an Avalon or something. I was able to program the remote portion. Then I bought a replacement 3 button key/shell only, put the guts from the 4 button, got it cut, cut the immobilizer chip from one of my keys and inserted it and bam, done.

Edit: this 4 button from Amazon for a Sienna:

$20 Keyecu Upgraded Remote Key Fob 315MHz 4D67 for Toyota Sienna - GQ43VT20T -Slide Door

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FQFQP6M?_encoding=UTF8

 

I visited my local professional locksmith yesterday afternoon, got the key cut, and now I have one integrated key and remote in my pocket. He said the key is decent quality and should last a while

 

I’ve been wanting this key… So no need to cut out the chip or anything correct? And it’s working as expected?

 

Mine is a 2014 4 cylinder 5 lug access cab, so no immobilizer and no chip. Any key with the correct cut starts the car. I had to go through the door opening/closing and key in/out ritual to pair the remote, then had the key cut, then started driving with it. The key (no pun intended) to getting the remote to work is making sure the FCC ID matches. The first one I got from Amazon wouldn't pair because it was the wrong frequency, even though that key and the one I ended up with through eBay looked identical

 

My locksmith said he could order a comparable key, but it would have cost a lot more and probably been only marginally better quality

 

what is the link for the one on eBay please??

 

never mind I saw it above. That one doesn’t work on mine.

 

I just did this for my 05.
Used this key&fob combo from eBay. Got the key cut by a local locksmith for $5. Only works for the “dot key” ones.
Used this programmer.
Used this thread for the immobilizer programming of the key.
Used this thread for the remote programming.
All in all I’m out like $60 with shipping and about ten minutes of my time.

 

just got my key fob in. I put in my board and got my key cut since i work for a locksmith and we do other things so i know nothing about that. I didnt think
my key had a a chip in it and thought it would start with original key next to it. anyways he said he can get it to work im just curious what are people paying for this?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-programmed-and-coded-for-2015-tacoma.690027/

 

Wanted to chime in as I was able to successfully get this done over the weekend with my 2012 Tacoma. My car has the immobilizer and uses the G chip key. I purchased this key:

$22 Keymall Upgraded Key Fob Keyless Entry Remote Control for Toyota Sienna Tacoma Tundra FCC ID GQ43VT20T G Chip (Your Old Key Must has G Stamp)

FCC ID GQ43VT20T G Chip Key

*** Please note as other reviewers mentioned, that the key you receive has no indication of the G stamp, which made me a little weary however it had Free Returns so I gave it a shot anyways ****

• Used TechStream to program the key first, took about 5 min to boot the computer, connect to car and program. I used this video guide
• TechStream requires a Windows XP machine to run, however I used my MacBook since thats all I had and executed it on a Virtual Machine using VirutalBox. The cable (USB to OBD2 16pin MINI VCI J2534 V15.00.028 FT232RL Diagnostic Tool Code Readers) I purchased for TechStream was an eBay special and cost about $25. The listing doesn't exist anymore but thats the exact description for the cable that works with my car and copy of TechStream. Well worth it as I have used it to reprogram the TPMS sensor on my truck with it as well.
• Once I confirmed that the key was programmed, by inserting key blank into ignition and monitoring the security light for the immobilizer to stay off vs. blinking, I was confident that the program was successful (although TechStream said it was, I just wanted to double verify).
• Next was programming the remote for unlock/lock which can be done via a series of opening closing doors and can be done without additional tools/software. I used this video guide
• Once everything was done, I was able to get the key cut at Home Depot. This is the second time they have done this for me, and both times did not charge me anything. They will look up the blank key that your key corresponds with and use that as their template, in my case it was key #35. The key is then cut, and de-burred and I now have an all in one key, with my old set as a spare.

 

GQ43VT20T flip key (or non-flip if you prefer) + read this thread = Best combo IMHO.

 

I initially bought this same flip key a few months back, but the thing refused to program, so I ended up returning it and bought an OEM key blank at the time. Also, the key when opened had too much slack for my taste and didn't inspire a lot of confidence in me on durability. Only thing I have left to reduce on my keychain is to get a re-keyable lock from Snugtop and use my car keys.

 

Hey man sorry to revive an old thread but I just got a similar key for my 2nd gen, and I was wondering if I have to get the key programmed separately from the key fob? I did the same process to program the key fob, but I’m wondering if there’s anything else I need done besides cutting they key.