Metal pedal mod

I was reading something earlier today about the metal pedal for the manual transmission. Involving swapping superior FJ parts for the clutch pedal and the cylinder piston assembly thing.. but for the life of me can’t find the write up and on it using the search.. any help?

Ps. fuck this this stupid crappy plastic pedal and everything that comes with it. Thanks

 

@BillDaCat8 and I have done it Bill has a good thread with it in it something like RC62 swap and shenanigans if it's kinda buried.


Edit:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/6-speed-shenanigans-ra60f-swap-to-rc62f.701237/page-3

 

Search part number 31301-35270 and you’ll see a bunch of stuff.

 

As a 6MT owner I'm curious of the issues that you're experiencing with the plastic pedal and what switching to a metal one improves upon.

 

On the topic of switching from plastic to metal down there, I stopped by Toyota to pick up an oil filter and asked about slave cylinders. They had none in stock but gave me part numbers. They were different but looked similar dimensions (2nd gen plastic, 3rd gen metal)

how hard was going metal? Was it a straight replacement or did things have to be modified for metal slave cylinder?

what made you decide it’s worth it?
I’m looking at $50 plastic masters on rock auto. I’m guessing the install is gonna be a bitch (contorted under dash)

Metal might be rebuildable but that benefit of replacing a seal or O-ring inside (if it can even be found by itself) might not need replacing until 100k later
As opposed to replacing a whole plastic unit

I know plastic can crack, break, and doesn’t like brake fluid drying it out
But I think the seal is more likely to fail internally and leak/bleed off pressure before that happens/crack the housing and spill fluid

 

It's a direct 1 for 1 replacement I am running a 3rd gen aluminum master and 3rd gen sub cylinder and 3rd gen turnover spring with my FJ pedal.

It not being plastic was enough for me.

My plastic one looked like it was bulging was concerned it was internally bypassing and concerned about it splitting.

I wouldn't worry about the rebuild-ability you're not likely to wear out the aluminum master anytime soon.

 

Mind if I ask how much it was and where you ordered it from?

 

I got it from a local dealer, to be honest I don't remember what I paid for it so it couldn't have been too expensive.

You can run the aluminum master with the plastic pedal if you swap the rod end from the old one.

To use the FJ pedal regardless of what master you use you will need a coupling nut, and a clevis with pin and some way to combine the two.

 

Thanks, man. I’m so sick of this clutch pedal. This morning is was doing the thing where there is no resistance for maybe half the pedal travel and then just like a few more inches where you can feel the hydraulic pressure. And then by when I drove at lunchtime it was much better? I been dealing with the creaking for like 7 years. There has to be a better way.

how hard was this to do?

 

Really not hard at all, there's maybe one nad part if you do it exactly how Bill and I did kind of needs welding but you might be able to get away with not or have someone weld it for you if you can't do it yourself otherwise everything was plug and play, just had to adjust the clutch down and clutch up plunger switches.

Have you deleted your clutch accumulator valve yet?

 

I noticed when I replaced my leaking clutch mc, the replacement wasn’t plastic. Before I left the parts counter, I asked because it looked different. He said it’s superceeded by the metal one.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-problems.631955/#post-22955269

 

I have not done the accumulator delete yet. Should look into that first? I’ve heard about this but never really looked into it or understood what it’s about.

I have a welder.. I’ll read up more on it. Probably the only thing I don’t like about my truck, damn clutch pedal.

 

Oh yeah pitch that accumulator valve it's absolutely garbage.

It's purpose is to soften the engagement (basically automatically slip your clutch) and it ruins pedal feel, engagement, downshifting, towing, pretty much everything.

Only benefit I see is potentially making it a little easier for someone who doesn't drive a stick on the regular or someone learning from shocking the drive train and spinning tires?

Either way it's stupid easy to do, it's on the left side if the trans, you may need to pull the front driveshaft to give you room, drain the fluid, remove the lines, remove the valve body itself (two 10mm head bolts IIRC) gently bend the hard lines out and put a female female coupler between them, fill the clutch reservoir and bleed the system and you're done, and hour worth of work for a lifetime of better pedal feel and engagement.

It that stupid valve gunking up that in part leads to the bad pedal return or pedal getting stuck at the bottom of travel.

 

ok thanks, gonna do this first and see if it’s better.

 

This is the exact bit I used, walked into the store and it is a pretty typical on the shelf stocked part.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...zAiwDRI_iy_ZOflN0dhoCkZUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

One of the members sells adm kits, I got mine from him. He didn’t ask for it but I suggest you supply your build date, on the driver door jamb decal, I think. That’ll ensure he gets you the correct part.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/members/trident904.131875/

 

My understanding was that's only needed for 3rd gens.

Gently bending the lines and using the $1 coupler did it for me, no need for a $150 kit.

 

Is the second gen accumulator just a 6-speed thing? I was under the impression that it didn’t come along until third gen. My 4 banger 5-speed has a plastic pedal but I don’t think it has the accumulator…?

 

I had a 2011 6MT and I liked it but the clutch pedal was sqeaky and soft. A dealer installed updated pedal/master cyl assembly fixed both. Apparently it was a known problem and there was a tsb available (at least for my year)

 

I think so, the 4 cyls still used the traditional tried and true set up with a pilot bearing and all, the 6cyls got the new janky technology.

My 2010 6MT definitely came with the accumulator from factory.

I had the plastic MC originally too and the sub cylinder was a different size and had a shorter rod compared to the 3rd gen one I have now.