Let's see your 5-lug street taco!

The fee's are reasonable given the sheer amount of fun to be had behind the wheel (Saturday 15-20 runs for $85, Sunday 4 competition runs for $35). If you want to be competitive this is where things can get really expensive, and melting tires is costly too of course!

For me I am just a Tacoma enthusiast, not trying to go pro here by any means. I am all about just going out and having fun, testing the mods, and pushing my first gen Tacoma to the limit around some cones! Since I am the only pickup truck out there I dont worry to much about rules or where I place in the standings. Every sports car I beat I do win bragging rights though and I did place 2nd in the novice class for the season, so I can certainly see the allure of the competitive side.

However the most important aspect for me is the feeling and enjoyment I get driving my little truck as hard as I can (in a safe and legal environment). I found the people's responses to the Tacoma at the track has made it even more fun than I had expected, many folks tell me it is the favorite to watch and especially to ride along in. Sure it's not the fastest machine out there by any means but likely the funnest (and one of the cheapest at my local venue). I can honestly say the last year I have spent autocrossing in my truck has been one of the best experiences of my lifetime, the 5 lug Tacoma is simply a blast to drive to the limit in a parking lot in!!

Click the video link below to "see my 5 lug street taco" in action to counter all the blabbing here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yLbRoxYY-TppBFzNUPZ9kUJXUiSfhAoi/view?usp=sharing

Enjoy!

 

My commuter.

 

Wow, I knew you pulled off some major renovations on your projects, but this is the first Lexus body swap to a five lug I have ever seen...

Exquisite craftsmanship, looks almost factory!!

 

here’s my daily/street tacoma

 

i’m on djm 3” upper & lower control arms with factory shocks up front and

3” block in rear with qa1’s, low profile bumpstops, xrunner rear sways, and xrunner x-brace.

adding the rear sways significantly improved the truck’s handling. i have 4” blocks i’m about to replace the 3” blocks and i might swap out my oem coils up front for xii drop coils to lower the truck some more.

 

Just an FYI going to need a mouth piece and being you have a regular cab a kidney belt with XII coils, can you say F-ing stiff as $h!t?
I HIGHLY recommend doing DIY coilover’s‼️ See photo ( I may be selling my top mounts and I have 4 new & 1 used set of different rate springs ) I going to try using OEM springs as I got the SOS spring perch’s machined & powder coated. I just need to get the ball joints press into the DJM UCA’s and installed. Oh, we have two five lugs an 07 reg & 15 access.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5lug-coilovers.541417/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/height-and-ride-adjustable-front-shocks.717946/

 

you’re gonna need this from SOS Performance to mount it

 

YIKES . imma skip the xii drop springs then and go for the coil over kits. which spring rate have you used? my plan is to track it here and there but it’s mostly my daily truck.

 

Sorry but the SOS kit doesn’t have all the correct parts. It’s best to piece it together as I just purchased everything to install a rear swaybar on the 07 Reg cab. (Tom wouldn’t sell me the parts I needed so I put a kit together.)
Ordered the swaybar and frame mounts from Toyota. Used Mazda MX-5 NC front 1” swaybar polly bushings & bracelets, purchased the end links from RockAuto and the mounts for the diff have to be welded on. I will get part numbers and links later & edit.

*Edit* As promised part numbers and links (hopefully)!
1. The OEM rear sway # 48812-AD030 (shop price should be less than $100)
2. OEM Frame End link brackets # 48824-04010 (shop price I got them for $55 a set) You need hardware, I used SS 10x25mm pan-head, nylon lock nuts & flats.
3. End links from Rock Auto (RA has Energy suspension swaybar bushing kits, will post link below)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8352656&cc=1434686&pt=7580&jsn=11

4. Weld on axle brackets were $39 shipped buy direct for best price shipped.

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.cfm?page=products&productid=307

Note the above are HD and need to be welded on. I also cut about an 1” of the tip of the brackets off to help clear the brake lines and look like the OEM.
5 & 6. You can use any 1” sway-bar bushings & bushing brackets/mounts as long as the holes are 4” wide to fit the above mounts. I used Eibach polly bushings for the front of an 05-12 Mazda RX-8 or MX-5 (they are the same) and the factory brackets. I had extra bushings and brackets. The bushings are about $3 each and the brackets from Mazda are about $7 each. Here’s a ES kit from RA @ $18
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1136912&jsn=3

If I had to buy every part to mount the rear swaybar I would have about $125 $130 and that’s better than the $188 from SOS plus you need to purchase the correct end links. But the way I do it you have to weld. So ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Spring rates I have used on our SR-5 15 Access cab with a steel toolbox have been 550# & 525#. Buy time I added the stiffer 6 lug rear springs the rear swaybar, polly bushings & Delran end link bushings, the Viking double adjustable shocks it stiffens up the ride quite a bit.
But if you’re going to Auto Cross you want stiffer springs & shocks.
I think you are in HI and from what I understand you can’t legally notch the frame in Hawaii. If that’s the case I would not lower the truck anymore. You need a minimum of 3 to 4 inches of travel with a solid live axle.

 

not sure what’s going on with the SOS kit but it worked for me. see the photo. i have 4x4 leafs to install but postponing it until i notch and reinforce frame. i’m up in the air if i should 4-link it or keep it as-is.

i’m in cali so i think it’s safe to notch it. you were close to guessing the island i’m from tho!

let me know which parts you’re selling. my son & i are building his 1st gen tacoma and hope to finish it by his graduation in Dec…cause i’m anxious to complete mine!

 

My apologies on the wrong State and I’m truly not trying to criticize, I just try to pass on what I have learned the hard way by trial & error, at my age there’s been a LOT of errors.
1st. The first Gen Tacoma & second Gen are completely different front suspension. So not much will cross over to *My Knowledge*. The same for the rear, I think I remember reading the rear leafs were different lengths. But I truly don’t know…

2nd. As for the rear swaybar & the SOS kit you have on. A swaybar will work ultimately better when the ends of the arms are close to level to the ground. That kit was designed for a 6 lug Tacoma that ride taller. So in short the homemade end links are to long for a five lug and then the five lug has been lowered. Can’t tell from that photo but I’m guessing the ends of the swaybar is pointed at the ground? Also you may want to turn the end link brackets around then move the end links to the outside of the swaybar. Another thing is that the brackets bolted on the rear diff will rotate on the axle no matter how tight or lose they are. As I purchased this kit myself. Plus see the little white squares that are painted on the swaybar? The swaybar bushings should be outside of the white paint. This keeps the swaybar from “walking” side to side. God I’m sorry I know I’m sounding like a know it all but like I said I’ve been there and done that. My best advice is next time you see a real X-runner take a good look at the rear swaybar and see how it’s mounted. Again I apologize I’m not trying to criticize. You have a sweet little ride and the last year of production of a regular cab Tacoma. I haven’t lowered our 07 reg cab yet because I’ve been working under the hood and the interior mods. The 07 came with power nothing but steering & a bench. Now it’s @ about 250 WHP. I’m waiting on Hiltech tuning to get completed.

 

no need to apologize. i’m not one to shy away and admit when i’m wrong. i only know what’s been my experience and i know worked. plus, we’re all here to pass on helpful info that’s accurate and true.

i paid a shop to install my rear sway kit from SOS cause i didn’t want to diy it on the pavement. i didn’t realize it was installed backwards…yikes! thank you for pointing that out and i will correct it. i appreciate your input! and yes, the sway bar is slightly pointing downwards cause it is too long. the leafs i was talking about are from a 2nd gen tacoma. it was my nephew’s takeoff when he upgraded his leafs for overlanding.

your interior is fucking awesome man!!! what seats are those? buckets and power windows are my next upgrade once i’m done helping my son build his 1st gen tacoma. or maybe swap out my diff for a 4.10. the factory diff and tranny fucken sucks for shit! makes the truck feel like a 3cylinder motor!

i’m jealous of your S/C. cali emissions will not give me their blessings on that urd kit! unless i register my truck out of state.

 

JT,
Thanks buddy on the compliments that’s really appreciated after I ripped on the rear swaybar install. Sorry to say a shop should know better and here you go order a pair of these they are even serviceable!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8352656&cc=1434686&pt=7580&jsn=11

Then flip the end link brackets/mounts (the ones bolted to the frame) around and install the new end links on the inside of the mount and the outside of the swaybar ends. Then loosen the bracket/mount with the U-bolt and slide them out and up a bit. You will need to move the soft brake line. Try to get the swaybar centered from side to side and the mounts out as far as you can. When you go to tighten the U bolts you will see they want to flare out if you over tighten. I highly recommend once you get the U bolt mounts where you like them take the truck to an muffler shop and see if they would put a couple of welds on the axle and mounts. Again try to hunt down a real X-runner and take a good look and maybe a photo or two to compare the location. Hey we all got to learn the hard way.

Now if the leafsprings are from a late model 6 lug they are stiffer and should lower the rear of the regular cab about 1.25”. Well that’s how much our regular cab dropped in the rear when I installed that’s the only Suspension mods I’ve done so far.

The seats are Toyota 86 seats, FR-S or BRZ seats on Planted seat brackets. The issue for you is the AirBag systems are not compatible. There’s a F-ing JackAss “Tacomaholick” his a member here too! He’s a F-ing AssHole that has a bypass switch that was developed by a guy that no longer makes the bypass and this F-ing JackAss has one and he refuses to let anyone else see it to copy it. The original inventor even said it would be very easy to copy. I purchased the seats to install in our 15 access cab. But with airbag light on in the dash the whole system will not operate including the seatbelts. The bypass makes the systems work together. JackAss has another screen name here but I can’t put it down because it calls his worthless ass! And I can’t stand him and don’t want him in any thread I’m in. Sorry for venting.

I’m guessing you have an automatic? The gear change is a piece of cake on the Tacoma just need to know what trans and tire size you have. I’ve done my fair share of trials with gears in the gutless 2TR.
This thread has some good info & reading check it out…

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2tr-fe-performance-thread.636292/

As for the Supercharger system PLEASE don’t confuse a Magnuson supercharger for a POS Rotrex. The Magnuson supercharger is used by many OEM’s that URD POS Rotrex doesn’t go in ANY OEM! Why because it’s not if it will take a shit but when will it take a shit⁉️ The shaft breaks all the time in the same place and in the same way! I owned one that’s how I know… Do some research you see…

 

You’re welcome man. Geez louise! your knowledge is bountiful! i bow before you and acknowledge your awesomeness…lol. all kidding aside, thanks so much for the end links recommendation and the url. it’s on its way! welding the sway brackets on the axle should solve the rotation issue and is in the plan.

my truck’s a manual and wouldn’t have it any other way. the door jam sticker says i have a 3.31 (A05A) diff. and it seriously hurts the fun factor but toyota designed it to be a work truck…eh it is what it is right. i have a short commute to work and doesn’t involve driving on the freeway so i think swapping out my a05a for a 4.10 should make my truck feel a bit more peppy. a guy over on the facebook toyota minis said he swapped his 3.31 for a 3.73 and highly recommended it. but i want to try 4.10 first. i really would like your thoughts or input.

i have ‘17 camry seats to use as buckets. beautiful seats for sure but the airbag plugs are different between the two cars. i think the plugs can be swapped out but my concern is the voltage/current specs between the two. if anything, i’ll probably stick with tacoma buckets from my year as i assume it will be plug & play.

vent all ya want brutha! this world is full of @ssholes. it’s inevitable that we have to deal with them! or block ‘em lol.

my bad for confusing your S/C. i would love to turbo my 2tr one ☝ day.

 

JT,
When I first started looking at changing the gears for a 2013 we had I looked & looked & looked for information but I couldn’t find crap even talked to local 4x4 shops and they didn’t know crap about Toyota third members so off to the dealer. My parts guys didn’t know crap either but VIN numbers. They told me the only 3rd member that would fit was from the 2.7 4x4 (4.10) so I did have the same wheels as you but with 255/55-18’s. These are 1.75” taller then stock from my best memories so I ordered the 3rd and a gasket. Had a friend installed it. We learned that the Toyota gasket needs to be soaked in water to expand and fit. And even with the taller tires the 4.10 are TO LOW‼️ I then started finding the correct info on the third members in the 2nd Gen Tacoma. It’s what they call an 8.4” that’s actually an 8.25” gear. This third member went in SOME first Gen Tacoma’s, first Gen Tundra’s and Sequoia’s, T-100’s and lastly all 2nd Gen Tacoma that don’t have an E locker. So they come in 3.15, 3.31 (these two can not be re-geared) 3.58, 3.73, 3.90, 4.09 first then 4.10, and one more from Toyota but I’m not sure on the numbers. If you see the third member out it has what I will call two handles on the back it’s the 8.4. The earliest ones had a smaller pinion to drive shaft flange. In my opinion the 3.73 is good for our 4x2 manual trucks I’m now running 245/50-19 on Ray forged wheels. Actually they are OEM G35 wheels 19x8 & 8.5”. Here a photo of the third member you should let for as I have two 3.58 & 3.73.


Edit,
Night what are you looking to do for the ride Hight? Good looking front end you have there…

 

My bad I read but it didn’t sink in! See what happens when you get old!
Anyway if I was you there are many front shocks that fit the front of the five lug and even OEM Bils from an X-runner. If you were closer I have a wall mounted spring compressor I could put together new shocks & springs. KYB makes a few, Gabriels Monroe‘s just about everybody makes the front shock!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2012,tacoma,2.7l+l4,1502961,suspension,strut,7584

 

Yes they fit and they are valved a bit stiffer then your OEM Tokico shocks. Just about any shock will be a bit stiffer.
I would just get the rubber dust boot if you were in AZ or a hot dry climate, see if you can see any dry rot (cracking) and look around those prices are a bit steep! May I ask whereabouts you are located?

 

i’ve owned an ‘08 xrunner and was impressed by the handling. that was my reason for adding the rear sways on my truck! it’s a night & day difference for me. for $700, you might want to look into the coil over conversion for out 2nd gens. i hope to get it by end of this year! i also think my front shocks are done so good reason to convert! i’m not far behind on mileage…have 60 miles until the odometer hits 70k!

 

Mr Hayrider sir, your vast knowledge is impressive!!! so i understand, most 4x2 2nd gens, i.e.

$90 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma With 4L Right Petrol intake air snorkel kit high performance system compatible kit Replacement black Rotational Molding (2005-2015)

2005-2015, have an 8.4” 3rd member?

if you’re currently running the 3.73, it leads me to believe then it’s a direct swap…”plug & play” deal. i believe you that the 4.10 maybe too low of a gear. as usual, i’m great full for your input. it’s a huge help for me as a noob and for my build. you selling your 3.73?

 

The $180 sounds good it’s the $43 in shipping, it all adds up…
Getting up there in price and getting close to Hight Adjustable shocks. But just replacing OE style shocks is the best bang for the buck. The truck has been lowered by the looks. DJM parts if you’re still on OEM springs & shocks?

Edit
JT,
Not really like I said it’s lessons I’ve learned the hard way by trial and error MOSTLY errors and yes I’m selling one or the other PM/DM sent.